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As a ballpark on the readings 35psi on low and 180psi on the high side.
 

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Hey Paul G

My AC on my 93 Concorde with ATC was giving me a intermitten Compressor problem. Now it has just quit. Changed dryer, schrader valve at pressure switch and Pressure switch 3 wire type, pulled Vac. Started adding one can of 134a Compressor never would come on. Disconnected canon plug at compressor no voltage when A/C button is pressed in on ATC. Shouldn't I have 12 volts at compressor to kick it in? Changed relays around no help. Can I jump off the battery to the pin on the compressor to see if it kicks in? If it does I must have a open wire. Does the AC system have a fuseable link?
 

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Jumped Compressor off of battery and clutch kicks in. But still no voltage at compressor. Voltages at pressure switch are 5 volts .8 volts and ground seems to be a little high 3.5 to 4 ohms. Is this normal? Has anyone found where and which wires are burning up? I'm just guessing the 12 volt which runs to the compressor runs under the intake plenum and back behind the engine. might be cooked somewhere.
Engine fault codes now show that A/C clutch circuit open. Is there a fuseable link anywhere on the main 12 volt wire to the compressor?
 

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For what ever the reason the compressor started to come back on. Charged up with 134a and threw in 2oz.s of oil works awesome. Glad this forum is here!
 

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I have some black gunk all around the pulley on my compressor, and the pulley is difficult to turn. Im thinking that the compressors bad, but now I dont know about this transducer deal.

Judging by the gunk, as well as the pulleys difficulty to move, Im thinking the compressor still. Anyone have similar symptoms?
 

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If the pulley that the belt turns is difficult to turn and the front center still turns, you may only need a new clutch. If so it only takes a set of snap ring pliers.
 

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Yep, it still turns, but it does have a bunch of gunk on it.

Can you get the clutch seperately...is there an FAQ or walkthrough on that? How does the black gunk factor in?
 

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The black gunk is either the grease from the sealed bearing for the pulley or remnants (sp) of the clutch coil. I don't know if their is a FAQ, but it is easy.
 

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You da man Paul.

Ill take a look at it tomorrow. Is there any definitive test for this, and what part do I need exactly (im assuming I can get this from the dealer)? I need to get my hands on a service manual.
 

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Autozone has a replacment clutch. This consists of a new electromagnetic coil, pulley, and armature (the piece that is magnetically pulled into the spinning pulley). The only piece that you may have to aquire is the spacers. These are flat washers that keep the two mating surfaces of the clutch seperated by the proper ammount when not engaged. You can save these from your existing clutch.
 

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Intermittent A/C 12 volt to the Compressor 93 Concord

A/C guys I've replaced my pressure switch, ATC, dryer, Pulled a vac. on system was working then quit again swapped out relays, still not getting 12volts at compressor. I'm still showing code 35 when performing byte check which is evap switch, will this give me the intermittent problem that I'm having with getting voltage to the compressor? Does anyone have a schmatic on this circuit to where I can take some voltage readings. When I pull out the relay I'm getting like 12 volts on pin and about 13 on the other.
 

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rattle when A/C button is ON

I've noticed a kind of rattling noise by/around the front belt of my 97 Intrepid, although I don't physically see any cause for it.
The noise occurs when the A/C button is depressed (when the air conditioner is on). The A/C does work great (for now anyways), just so you know.
If the A/C button is off and I just run with plain ol' cool (but not quite cold) air (or heat), the noise disappears.
Is my A/C soon to be on the fritz? I just bought the car and I'd hate to spend $$ on repairs already.

Anyone know what's wrong with it, how to fix it, and how much (ballpark figure) it'll cost?

Also, does anyone know how I can find out whether it uses the old refrigerant or if the 1997 and newer models use the new, environmentally friendlier stuff? Thanks in advance...
 

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If its only doing it when then ac is engaged then chances are good your compresser is on the way out. You might want to get a oil charge from the parts house and see if it helps. Also check the shoe on the compresser( its the piece on the veryfront of comp) for breaks in the spring. Sometimes they break and will rattle when the ac is on........
 

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J&J said:
I've noticed a kind of rattling noise by/around the front belt of my 97 Intrepid, although I don't physically see any cause for it.
The noise occurs when the A/C button is depressed (when the air conditioner is on). The A/C does work great (for now anyways), just so you know.
If the A/C button is off and I just run with plain ol' cool (but not quite cold) air (or heat), the noise disappears.
Is my A/C soon to be on the fritz? I just bought the car and I'd hate to spend $$ on repairs already.

Anyone know what's wrong with it, how to fix it, and how much (ballpark figure) it'll cost?

Also, does anyone know how I can find out whether it uses the old refrigerant or if the 1997 and newer models use the new, environmentally friendlier stuff? Thanks in advance...
As far as i know all the LH cars use R-134a...which is what I assume you mean by enviromentally friendly. There have been some debates over whether or not its enviromentally friendly. I believe though that its still illegal to vent R-134a.

Anyways, I would look into what the post above says and also have a experienced A/C mechanic look at it. Hopefully they will know whats up, and youll catch it before it becomes a huge failure if there is in fact a problem.
 

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I believe the total conversion to R-134a took place on all Mopar models post 1990.

The compressor is probably worn internally, and i'd replace it pronto. I had one sieze on me about 5 years ago, though not a hazard, the belt melted almost immediately since the engine was still running, and continued to melt once the engine was off. The smoke was alarming, the smell, even worse.

If you are handy, you can replace the compressor yourself. New compressors are not too expensive, AutoZone has em for under 200 bucks. However, you should replace the receiver-Dryer too. Chances are if there is internal mechanical noise, there may be metal shavings in the system. If you do intend on doing the job yourself, remove the compressor, and the dryer..Rent an air compressor, add some mineral spirits to the system, and blow the system out. Catch the exiting by placing a rag over the opposing fitting. You can do this where the compressor mounts.

When / if you buy the compressor, see if it is previously oiled. Some are. If not, you'll need to add oil to the dryer before install, the system requires just a few oz. of oil. Pag 38 I believe. Put the dryer in LAST.

You could also save a few bucks by letting an AC mechanic do the purge , oil and re-charge. In fact, I recommend it. if so, have them install the dryer.

Don't fret so much on repairs. Repairs are the natural course of owning the car. From a psychological standpoint, it is madning, but if your car is paid for, consider it far better from having a car payment. That should set your mind at ease. Do what you can to keep it on the road.

A free-and-clear car, that just requires general repairs, is like having free transportation. I would not want to have a car payment now with gas prices so high. Imagine the "Cost per mile" it takes to operate a car with financing? An LH, or Intrepid can do 28mpg easy on the highway, depending on driving habits.
 

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dskalish said:
I believe the total conversion to R-134a took place on all Mopar models post 1990.

If you are handy, you can replace the compressor yourself. New compressors are not too expensive, AutoZone has em for under 200 bucks. However, you should replace the receiver-Dryer too. Chances are if there is internal mechanical noise, there may be metal shavings in the system. If you do intend on doing the job yourself, remove the compressor, and the dryer..Rent an air compressor, add some mineral spirits to the system, and blow the system out. Catch the exiting by placing a rag over the opposing fitting. You can do this where the compressor mounts.
I do not believe you can flush through the expansion valve. At least I believe it is highly discuraged.
 

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That is an omission on my part. Good call. I recall removing the expansion valve when I did my flush, and flushed out both sides of the system separately.

And I put on a new valve, a relatively inexpensive item. I was replacing the evap at that time. It was a big job.
 

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Found Evap sensor located underneath RH duct in bottom of enclosure of Evap and heater core. Evap sensor probe looks almost like a meat thermometer that just goes into the evap coil like a piece of meat in betweeen the fins. The probe itself was broken the mechanic at the dealership said to just make a new hole which I did seems to work fine now with no compressor problems. Cost 26.00 at dealership. This was found using ATC Byte check code 35. Problem was no 12 volt to compressor. Hope this helps someone get their air going! :fun_08:
 

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Whiteyboy said:
Found Evap sensor located underneath RH duct in bottom of enclosure of Evap and heater core. Evap sensor probe looks almost like a meat thermometer that just goes into the evap coil like a piece of meat in betweeen the fins. The probe itself was broken the mechanic at the dealership said to just make a new hole which I did seems to work fine now with no compressor problems. Cost 26.00 at dealership. This was found using ATC Byte check code 35. Problem was no 12 volt to compressor. Hope this helps someone get their air going! :fun_08:
ANOTHER WHITEY!?!!??! wtf :brutal_32
 
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