As far as i know all the LH cars use R-134a...which is what I assume you mean by enviromentally friendly. There have been some debates over whether or not its enviromentally friendly. I believe though that its still illegal to vent R-134a.J&J said:I've noticed a kind of rattling noise by/around the front belt of my 97 Intrepid, although I don't physically see any cause for it.
The noise occurs when the A/C button is depressed (when the air conditioner is on). The A/C does work great (for now anyways), just so you know.
If the A/C button is off and I just run with plain ol' cool (but not quite cold) air (or heat), the noise disappears.
Is my A/C soon to be on the fritz? I just bought the car and I'd hate to spend $$ on repairs already.
Anyone know what's wrong with it, how to fix it, and how much (ballpark figure) it'll cost?
Also, does anyone know how I can find out whether it uses the old refrigerant or if the 1997 and newer models use the new, environmentally friendlier stuff? Thanks in advance...
I do not believe you can flush through the expansion valve. At least I believe it is highly discuraged.dskalish said:I believe the total conversion to R-134a took place on all Mopar models post 1990.
If you are handy, you can replace the compressor yourself. New compressors are not too expensive, AutoZone has em for under 200 bucks. However, you should replace the receiver-Dryer too. Chances are if there is internal mechanical noise, there may be metal shavings in the system. If you do intend on doing the job yourself, remove the compressor, and the dryer..Rent an air compressor, add some mineral spirits to the system, and blow the system out. Catch the exiting by placing a rag over the opposing fitting. You can do this where the compressor mounts.
ANOTHER WHITEY!?!!??! wtf :brutal_32Whiteyboy said:Found Evap sensor located underneath RH duct in bottom of enclosure of Evap and heater core. Evap sensor probe looks almost like a meat thermometer that just goes into the evap coil like a piece of meat in betweeen the fins. The probe itself was broken the mechanic at the dealership said to just make a new hole which I did seems to work fine now with no compressor problems. Cost 26.00 at dealership. This was found using ATC Byte check code 35. Problem was no 12 volt to compressor. Hope this helps someone get their air going! :fun_08: