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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Do I NEED to REBUILD or can I get by....

Ok so I went through with my fix today. Took like 9 hours with the help of my pops (doing most the difficult stuff). Anyway, so I'm at 99,600 miles with the 2.7L and I had a problem where Midas said I needed a new engine. You can peep it out here if you want:

Midas Says I Need A New Engine

So we replaced the water pump, oil pump, timing chain, cam shaft gears, crank shaft gears, new oil & oil filter of course. I used to have a check engine light before the fix, now I don't. The car runs really well EXCEPT... ahhhhhhh! This light ticking that turned into a hollow light thumping after driving it about a half a mile. My pops is in the car with me and hes saying "The car sounds really quiet from inside..." we pull up to the house and its now gotten a little louder... Well he then said that it sounds like my cars engine spun a rod bearing. So my question to you all wonderful people is... what do you think? My father said that replacing the rod bearings could be a temporary fix or a more permanent it just depends. And he further said that it could have happened because when the timing chain guide broke some dirt and smal debris could have gotten through the oil pickup screen and that could have been the culprit.... Again, what do you think?

The car runs really good now compared to when I had that incident (check link in the beginning of my post) but now I got this rod bearing problem it looks like. He said the rod bearing problem is not bad right now but told me again not to drive the car or else I could spin a bearing and that would be bad. (I think thats the terminology he used.)

And lastly (again), what do you think?

And here I thought I could drive to work tomorrow... :( :( :(

And by any chance does anyone know how much Rod bearings cost?
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Does anyone have any adivce for me? AHHHHHHHHHHh! I had to move the car back into the garage today so that I can work on it more and it started up just the same... started up nicely with a light ticking noise and I didnt run it long enough to get to any other noises...

So can I just fix this with changing the rod bearings or do I have to rebuild? What do you think?!

Please helppppppppppppp!
 

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If the problem is a rod bearing,then your crank shaft journal could be out of round at that location. This is why your Dad told you not to drive it. The more you run the engine, the worse that rod bearing will get. The worse the bearing gets, the greater the chance of ruining the bearing journal of the crank shaft.
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
So if its just the Rod Bearing I could fix that and have a potentially perfectly good car?

So when I drop the oil pan and the casing what should i be looking for to see if its more then just a rod bearing? I'm guessing that I'll have to measure the rods in there or something along the lines of that. I do have the chilton book for the 2.7L and they got pretty good instructions in there.

I'm also trying to figure out if I should keep dumping money into this engine or not?

:smilie_ha
 

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ThaArtist said:
So if its just the Rod Bearing I could fix that and have a potentially perfectly good car?

So when I drop the oil pan and the casing what should i be looking for to see if its more then just a rod bearing? I'm guessing that I'll have to measure the rods in there or something along the lines of that. I do have the chilton book for the 2.7L and they got pretty good instructions in there.

I'm also trying to figure out if I should keep dumping money into this engine or not?

:smilie_ha
After dropping the oil pan, you have to find the sloppy rod bearing. Then remove the bearing cap and check that crank shaft journal with a micrometer or a dial caliper. Check in 3 or 4 places around it to make sure that it is not out of round. If it is not round and you just put a new bearing in, it will go to hell pretty quik like. This project is best done by a shop where they do this stuff every day. to accurately measure the crank journal(s) it's better to remove the crankshaft from the engine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Another mechanic said he thought it was the knock sensor... any chance of that after the timing chain guide breaking? Why would the knock sensor go bad? he said he was something to do with the timing chain jumping a tooth and the sensor thinking the timing was off or somethin like that....

it makes more sense to me that the debris from the timing chain guide that broke went right into by the rod bearings and go in there and caused one of them to slip...

Anyone have an opinion on this ?
 

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I'd HIGHLY reccommend taking the crank out and taking it in. At almost 100k you're looking at a worn down bearing that's causing a knock between the journal and the crank every time it brings the piston up and down.

If you drop a new bearing in there (which I believe run a little upwards of $20 each) like JedGXE said, you're going to run into a laundry list of occurances only resulting into aluminum filings in your oil pan and another knock.

Good luck, fight hard and you'll eventually win!
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
The bearings are $4.20 from Jeff or Joel in the Buy/Sell/Trade section. Local dealers told me $8.40 a piece.

And about the crank shaft... that sucks cause I just redid the timing chain etc. and put all that back together! :(

Cars aren't suppose to have to be rebuilt at 100k. :( I feel like I have a KIA or some shiet... :(:(:(

I love the way the Intrepid looks inside and out but dayum... I might have to part with it... SOOOOOO many problems for someone with no money... :(
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok we checked the bearings and they were fine. Just normal wear for 100k. Yet I still have this hollow woofing sound coming from right above the right air manifold (the part with the circle indents on a 2.7L)... I have no idea what it is... the engine is running good its just that noise... I just drove it like 3 miles and back fine... no bigger noises or anything...

ANYONE have ANY idea? We know its NOT a rod knock noise now... rod bearings and rods/pistons are ok.

I guess I'll just continue to drive it and take it to different mechanics and see if anyone has heard such a noise or can diagnose it.... if it blows up it blows up! But I really can't see that happening... the main components of the engine look fine... I'm just gonna watch my fluids and temperature and keep an eye on it I guess..

ANNNNNYYY information is greatly appreciated... Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Oh also I get no error codes except the usual 1384 or whatever it is. The one that says the battery has been disconnected within the last 50 starts or however that goes.

I used to get the 0352 code and replaced the coil pack and no code there no more so at least theres a little bit of good news.

and...

Bump.
 

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I spun two rods in my 2.7, both of the connecting rod large end bores were in spec but kinda of torn up (I replaced me anyway). Both pin journals were chewed up pretty bad. You crankshaft could get warped from the heat build up of the metal to metal too.
 

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Artist, I want to conratulate you on the repair work you did. For someone with no prior experience on these engines, and possibly no real engine tear-down experience at all, you did well. Most people would have thrown in the towel.

Good job !
 

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va3ux said:
Artist, I want to conratulate you on the repair work you did. For someone with no prior experience on these engines, and possibly no real engine tear-down experience at all, you did well. Most people would have thrown in the towel.

Good job !
Yes bravo. You can now agree, it is just a bunch of bolts very hard to get at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
va3ux said:
Artist, I want to conratulate you on the repair work you did. For someone with no prior experience on these engines, and possibly no real engine tear-down experience at all, you did well. Most people would have thrown in the towel.

Good job !

Thanks!!! But I can't take all the credit. I wouldnt have gottent his far without you all helping me... And as far as the actual work is concerned my pops helped me with the hard stuff, like taking off the crank and making sure the timing chain was setup correctly and also gettin the belts off and on cause I think it would have taken me pretty long to figure that one out.

Now its just this noise thats driving me nuts... I mean we practically rebuilt the front of the engine as much as main components are concerned....

its just this noise! sometimes its louder and sometimes its not to loud...

and it sounds like its in rotation with a piston moving but we checked the pistons and rod bearings... they were fine... im a lil confused...

Oh and ive just been driving it around town babying the hell out of it but put like 30 miles on it and it dont seem any worse or really any better...

ANY thoughts or possible ideas of what this could be?!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 · (Edited)
0432 Code Help?

Ok so I drove about 30 miles yesterday..... car was driving fine all the while except the same noise which happens more at idle then when im driving...

Anyway... engine light came on and freaked me out. I thought I might end up stranded 20 minutes from the city! Anyway... I got to where I needed to go and then got home after that fine.

I checked for codes and got 0432 which in Chilton's handbook says

1/2 Catalytic Converter Efficency (Catalyst 2/1 efficiency below required level.)

So whats that mean and any idea how to fix it?

And another question is: would an auto shop with a diagnostic machine be able to tell me more? Would they pull up the same information or do they have more in depth analysis?
 
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