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...I used a normal fuel line, since I couldn't fine one for fuel injection...
Hmm - is there a vehicle made today, other than lawnmowers and motorcycles, that doesn't have fuel injection? I would have to wonder if any hose in an auto parts store labeled "fuel hose" wasn't for the pressure of fuel injection and that it's just understood to be so. I certainly could be wrong.
 

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Hmm - is there a vehicle made today, other than lawnmowers and motorcycles, that doesn't have fuel injection? I would have to wonder if any hose in an auto parts store labeled "fuel hose" wasn't for the pressure of fuel injection and that it's just understood to be so. I certainly could be wrong.
Actually most of the ones I have seen states that is it not recommended for fuel injection.
like this one here:

 

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OK - you got me. I hope people read the labels. :)
 

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I think this is the same problem I'm having. I have a 2001 Intrepid with a 2.7; how similar would the process be?
Same. Engine is different, fuel line is the same. I posted to your thread: http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?t=1101706

If you cut the plastic line where the metal ends, it would take 10mm (3/8") ID hose (over top of the plastic on the metal). If you're able to get the plastic completely peeled off the metal, use 8mm (5/16") ID hose. Use only fuel injector hose and fuel hose clamps *not* regular fuel hose and *not* regular hose clamps. Every auto parts store has both the hose and clamps.
 

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@ PEVA
Thanks for the reply. Probably best to go with steel then.I caused a leaky rear brake line while removing the fuel filler tube for rust removal and repainting, so I figure for safety I should replace the fuel line at the same time as the brake lines.
 

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This thread was a life saver.

Gas smell was bad all around and inside the car. Once I got access to the back of the motor I started the car and feel the gas slowly leaking out.

Not easy getting my fat hand in there to cut the plastic line off




Removing the push lock end was the easy part.


you can see the hairline crack.




Now I need to repair a broken bolt for that piece that ties the shock towers together. And I found my CV boot is all tore up. It never ends.
 

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IIRC, i just replaced the plastic piece with fuel grade rubber hose from the connector to the metal pipe. you should be able to cut the plastic off with a razor blade.
KSA, I know it's an old thread but did you cut the entire plastic piece off and use hose from the where the metal starts on the line up to where the quick connect was?

Thanks
 

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how can i view the fotos? thers jsut images with generic foto says to update account and enable 3rd party hosting..? ive looked through all the options and settings..thanks
 

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Photobucket locked everyone who had photos linked and locked them out. It's not on the forum end here. THose pictures are pretty much gone.
 

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If you cut the plastic line where the metal ends, it would take 10mm (3/8") ID hose (over top of the plastic on the metal). If you're able to get the plastic completely peeled off the metal, use 8mm (5/16") ID hose. Use only fuel injector hose and fuel hose clamps, *not* regular fuel hose and *not* regular hose clamps. Every auto parts store has both the hose and clamps.

 

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Had the same problem. Used a combination of hose and clamps per above, and the quick-release replacement kit, with its own somewhat stiff and thin hose snipped to length (about 2"" shorter than the rubber hose) and inserted into the softer wider rubber hose. The fit is snug, but no need to force. Silicone grease and it wiggles right in. Same on the end that connects to the steel line. The rubber hose is definitely required since the hard plastic hose of the kit will not by any means fit over the steel line; the kit on its own is intended for plastic-to-plastic splicing only. I didn't want to retain any portion of the original part.

On my car at least (2001 3.2) I find there is seemingly no need for the curly-wurly nature of the original part. The new combination replacement hose makes a gentle curve down to the steel fuel line with no obstacles. It can also be removed easily later by slipping the bottom hose off, then rotating the quick-release so the button is easily reached and released from the back.

The only thing I worry about is the lack of bumps on the hard plastic hose of the quick-release kit. I tightened the clamp to where it did not easily want to go tighter, and had sunk slightly into the rubber, but I think not hard enough to kink the hard hose inside. Oh well, if it leaks (none so far), I'll just go to the hose-only solution originally posted here.

Some photos below.

When I searched for this issue on the net, this thread was the first place it took me. Sites like this are one of the reasons I love the Internet. Thanks guys (again).

https://flic.kr/p/2jsxv8u
https://flic.kr/p/2jsxv96
https://flic.kr/p/2jsxv9X
 

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Good to hear a success story!
 
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