[98IntrepidTan]

The 2004 is, in about 2 weeks time, going to live a few hundred mile north of the Mason Dixon line. What do I need to do in order to be prepared? (I don't think this car has ever even been out of the state before!)

Water pump, radiator, fans, belts, hoses and coolant have all been changed. Transmission has recently been rebuilt. Half the struts are new, the other half will be new shortly. An oil change is needed, but It'll wait for an input of "up North" weight. New wiper blades, with new snow blades will traveling along. Ice scraper, check.

Specifically looking for

• oil weight suggestions
• snow tire suggestions (chains are already there)
• anti-rust prevention?
• anything else I just haven't considered...

Thanks !

 

[Daytrepper]

Up north? What state?

Oil weight won't make a difference unless you are really going far far up north -- like northern Canada. 5W30 is fine.

I lived in northwestern Ohio for almost 30 years never used chains or snow tires. If you're going to be in the mountains, different story. A front wheel drive LH is generally awesome in the snow up north, they cut right thru it and once you get a good snowpack on the road if you must drive in a snow storm, they are great.

Rust prevention; if it snows and they salt the roads, wash it immediately; a light coating of oil is good to help stop rust in the prone areas, but better than that, keep it clean, and garaged if possible. I washed mine almost daily when they salted the roads up there. Probably could have bought the car wash.

 

[Scooter-Man]

Change your O-ring to prevent oil leaks.

 

[98IntrepidTan]

Change your O-ring to prevent oil leaks.

It sounds like oil leaks would be beneficial to prevent rust!

Beside, you know this has already been done, even the ones in the back of the head...

 

[98IntrepidTan]

I should have specified semi-mountainous. Example: As you walk down the sidewalk, you must step down also.
With the occasional trip to ski. ⛷

 

[yevrah]

from northern alberta.
5/30 is fine.
get a good cold flow synthetic brand, since your car is american, i doubt it has a block heater.

if your going somewhere you'll be below 0f, block heaters are easy to install.
just slide into a hole on the passenger side of the block.
they aren't in coolant on our engines.
just a little easier to start and faster warming.
anything more than about 2 hours is a waste.

many good snow tires now.
mine are firestone's directional snow grip tire.
forget the name off hand.
blizzak are pretty good.
my snows are mounted on first gen alloys.
so they are 16 instead of 17 on my lhs.
225/65/16.

rust prevention. wash it as much as you can when it's sloppy out.
mines showing spots at the corners over the last few years.
but then it's 23 years old in a climate like this.

and if you're battery is more than 5 years old, it might need replacing.
i keep a battery minder plugged in on mine since it sits for weeks sometimes.
helps in cold.
if you get a factory block heater, the plug system works with a factory battery blanket too.

 

[98IntrepidTan]

I have been using 10W-30 here, but I can imagine that cold weather starting would be improved with a lighter winter weight. 5W-30 it is!

The transmission folks said the ABS system is calling for a front right wheel sensor. New is pricey ! Any brands to avoid? Junkyard part?

 

[LUNAT1C]

Chrysler specifies 5w30 for 99% of driving conditions/locations. Unless "a few hundred miles north of the Mason Dixon" (can you be more specific? Seattle is different from Minneapolis is different from Detroit is different from Caribou, ME) means the Canadian Northwest Territories, don't worry about it. When my M was my daily I used 10w30 in summer and 5w30 in winter, but honestly didn't ever need to change weights.

Snow tires - Unless you're in the UP of Michigan or further north even than that, they're a waste of time and money. Good set of all season tires is all you need. I had a new set of Toyo Proxes4 on my 07 Charger R/T Road & Track (Road & Track's, like their Daytona siblings, were all RWD) when it snowed heavily here north of Detroit, and the car was making a mockery of Range Rovers.

Chains - Again, only if you're going to be in the Rockies. I've driven FWD, RWD, AWD, and 4WD through the northern Appalachians (NE PA, upstate NY) and other mountains heading to ski resorts, never needed chains. I believe some municipalities require them on certain mountain passes, but some other municipalities prohibit their use because of the damage they do to roads.

My suggestions:

Check your battery's age and CCA rating (cold cranking amps). My Jeep will sometimes chug when starting near 0F, and I have a 3 year old Northstar AGM battery in it. My M has a very similar battery, but hibernates on a battery minder in an attached garage that manages to stay 20F higher than ambient, and tips over without complaint. If your battery is old, or low CCA, consider replacing it.

Consider hitting the undercarriage with Fluid Film to protect it, and wash the underbits frequently. My bright blue Jeep was white/gray until I washed it Saturday night and I'll need to do it again soon as the melting snow re-liquified the salt on the road. Dry salt is not the issue, it's salty water that you need to worry about. Wash it off frequently and you'll be ok. Fluid Film will help, just don't do it in your garage or driveway. Lanolin has a certain smell to it that hangs around. Around here, car wash chains offer unlimited monthly subscriptions so you can wash every hour on the hour if you wanted (though only if you hate your cars finish... only my Jeep goes through them, not my M or Durango).