Well, you have to take out the cluster, which isnt too bad of a job. But the dash has to partially come out. The bulbs are a dealer only type of thing. PC194/PC168. Here's the steps to remove the cluster
1. Remove shifter knob (2.5mm hex head)
2. Gently pry up on the shifter bezel and just move it away slightly. No need to disconnect anything here.
3. Again, gently pry on the radio bezel next, working your way from bottom to top.
4. Remove drivers side dash endcap (where the fuses are)
5. Remove knee bolster (2 screws and gently pry up and out at an angle. Dont pull straight out as this will release the parking brake if its engaged.
6. Gently squeeze the steering column shroud along the seam on the lock cylinder side. This is probably the trickiest part if its never been off.
7. Remove the instrument cluster bezel. There are a total of 5 screws holding it on. Take the screws out. Put the steering wheel in lowest tilt position to clear the column and pop the bezel out of place starting right above the cluster.
8. Now you should be ready to remove the cluster. There are 2 screws holding it on the bottom. Some cars have Torx T15s, others have normal Phillips heads. take those out and youre ready to pop the cluster out. There are 2 ways you can do this. Either try to fit the edges of our fingers behind the sides of the cluster and GENTLY pull, or make a removal tool out of a coat hanger to gently pull it out. Basically, unwind a hanger, trim it to about 2 feet, bend it in 2 places (forming a "C") and slide it behind the back edges of the cluster to pull it out, more leverage that way. The cluster will pop out and you'll see the bulbs you can change on the back side of it. Installation is just a reversal of the removal.