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Discussion Starter #1
What if we had an electric muffler cutout that opened with the short runner valve on the 3.5 HO..... sounds like a good idea because at 5000RPM+, you don't want much back pressure when you are after loads of HP.... with this system you still have the backpressure for building torque but a freer flowing exhaust for the upper end too.

Some sports cars actually do this, the idea is not new. I hear Summit has the needed valve.

If the valve draws too much current, you could always use a transistor to turn it on. The PCM would trigger the transistor and the transistor would do the actual switching.

So with that out of the way, how restrictive is that 1st resonator just after the cats? I can't decide if I want to do a setup like Tom did or just cut off the muffler and replace it with a Flowmaster...... there is a BIG difference in cost.

Keep in mind I am a bit nuts.... I did go through the trouble to change out my PCM and wiring harness for 21HP!

I want this thing to sound MEAN at WOT, but fairly quiet at cruising speed. A little rumble at idle is good but I don't want ANY drone on the highway.
 

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hardwareguy said:
So with that out of the way, how restrictive is that 1st resonator just after the cats?
Don't know... don't have one...

TFC installed 300M Special exhaust, front resonator replaced w/straight pipes.
 

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If you don't want any drone then you definately need to keep the first resonator. Now one option that I've seen someone do is replace that with an aftermarket muffler to still keep out the drone but keep the whole system still sounding more aggressive. Either way you should definately up to that point steal the M special exhaust engineering and extend the two pipes to that resonator a few feet. Someone else could come up with the exact length that you should extend those back.

Here is the issue with your plan. You should be putting that valve in before that resonator/aftermarket muffler to get the full effect of opening up the exhaust. That means having to use two valves - one for each pipe, or using a y-pipe, then valvle, then one in (one or two - depends on if you're doing duals from there on out or if your doing a single pipe back from here) out aftermarket piece.

I think the Y pipe - valvle - aftermarket resonator/muffler is the best bet. As far as what you want to do past that. I would think that the point of the valve is to open up the exhaust when you need it, so this part should be engineered for optimum preformance over the range of up to 5000 rpms. That means slightly more backpressure than you would be shooting for normally so do things a bit on the restrictive side and then just pick whether you just want dual pipes out of that first resonator that would go to either a pair of tips or a pair of other mufflers, or you could put one 2.5 in pipe back to go to a single muffler that could be something like the flowmaster 80 that gives you the dual out or just a single out muffler.
 

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I have seen 2 of those electric valves. The last one I saw you could control how wide the valve opened - just crack it or all the way(sounds momentary). You would need to figure out how to deal with that.
 

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I would think a dramatic change like that in the flow characteristics of the exhaust while the engine is at 5000 RPM might cause some problems.
 

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00r/t.mopar.muscle said:
I would think a dramatic change like that in the flow characteristics of the exhaust while the engine is at 5000 RPM might cause some problems.
Hardwareguy is offering to be a guinea pig. Don't rain on his parade
 

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Well I guess the next step is to start looking at valves to see how they work to see if it could be done well.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Thanks for the replies. I don't think that suddenly uncorking it will cause a problem. Lamborghini does it...... sure, that's a 5L 40V V10, but it shouldn't be too different in concept on our little 3.5L V6.

I need to see what's out there.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I know I want my 1st resonator, the real question is do I keep the stock one or get the SAWZALL after it and stick a Magnaflow resonator in its place?

What size is the pipe between the 1st resonator and the craptastic stock muffler? It looks like 2.5".....
 

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Ok...let me chime in here...
The Electric Cutouts have had some issues with working in the long term. Due to the nature of their use, they can fail. I have known people with Grand Prix's run these cutouts, and they would fail on a regular basis. I would be interested to see how this would work..but beware.

As far as drone, you won't get any drone if you have an H/X-Pipe installed. On my 04 Special, all I have is the rear mufflers (stock) and the tips (also stock) There is an H-pipe installed and that equalizes the flow between cylinders, and eliminates the resonance. You will love the sound it produces too.

Trust me on this, I had it on one M, and I loved it so much, I got it done to another.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I was waiting for you to post something!

How is the performance on that exhaust setup, how much better is it than stock? So all you have is the very rear muffler, no mid muffler right? Interesting.....

Thanks for the warning about failures.... I kinda figured as much.
 

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hardwareguy said:
I was waiting for you to post something!

How is the performance on that exhaust setup, how much better is it than stock? So all you have is the very rear muffler, no mid muffler right? Interesting.....

Thanks for the warning about failures.... I kinda figured as much.
How'd I guess...

Well, the performance of the true dual setup was far beyond my expectations.
The main restriction in our exhaust systems is the crossflow muffler. Remove that, and run duals (or not I would imagine) flow increases dramatically.

My current setup on the 04 is...
H-pipe rear mufflers, and stock tips
True duals all the way!!
 

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Make it a single valve right behind the "Y", deep... behind the back seat... dump it before the twin resonators.
 

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Perhaps some research into finding versions that would be more reliable would be worth it. It sounds like you could get a lot of good out of doing it, and it's got me curious. Perhaps you could wire up a switch that you would have to flick on to enable it that way it wasn't getting used all the time, just when you wanted to push the car. That could dramatically reduce the wear on it and extend its lifespan a lot.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
CaptainMorgan said:
Perhaps some research into finding versions that would be more reliable would be worth it. It sounds like you could get a lot of good out of doing it, and it's got me curious. Perhaps you could wire up a switch that you would have to flick on to enable it that way it wasn't getting used all the time, just when you wanted to push the car. That could dramatically reduce the wear on it and extend its lifespan a lot.
I was thinking the same thing.... the full auto would be cool, but it needs a bypass so it doesn't do it on the interstate..... WOT is enough of a cop magnet without a fully uncorked exhaust!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I just hope I come up with the money for my wild ideas..... I'm in COLLEGE..... and nobody needs my fix it services in the dorms :(

I plan to make lots of cash this summer though..... BIG PC repair jobs await me :D
 
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