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972 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, first off when I first bought my 2000 ES I heard some odd whining coming from the engine and so I brough out the Shop manager and he located it, it was coming from the AC compressor. He went back in and came out with a can of lube, shot it at the pulley and the noise stopped. This seemed like a bad idea at the time, squirting lube on a pulley, but hey he's the manager right?
Anyways the noise is back and I don't want to do something stupid like squirting more lube on a pulley unless that's what I'm supposed to do.
A friend told me it sounds like the bearings are going on the AC compressor, can I just change the bearings if that's the case? Or do I have to change the whole compressor?
Secondly, I recently changed my own brakes and now there's a squeek coming from my brakes all the time. I used Bendix pads.
Aside from that sound there's also a second sqeek that I hear whenever I make a sharp left turn.
My car is turning into a symphony of odd

Dain bramaged
7,213 Posts
1. Sounds like the bearings in the a/c clutch are going.. it can be replaced, but can be a headache to get to align right.

2. When you changed the brakes, did you clean everything real good, and have you gone throu the proper break in methods?

3. quit making sharp left turns. :) seriously, gotta be a little more specific, like where it sounds like the squeek is comming from..

972 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
You can replace the bearings in the clutch?
I was just at the parts store and they want me to replace the belt, but dang that looks like a big job. I haven't looked for a how-to yet but, I hope someone out there can give me some info on how to get to that thing.

As for the brakes, .....break in?......umm....noooo <head hanging>
I did clean everything I think, I installed new rotors at the same time and I did use brake cleaner on them. The odd thing is that they are making noise even when I'm not applying the brakes. I will say this though, it seems like they are getting quieter with time.

ok, it sounds like the sqeek is coming from the front drivers side when I make slow sharp left turns, like getting into a parking space. Ya' gotta make a sharp turn then....don't you?

3,552 Posts
Your AC squeak, did he spray the running surface of the pulley on in the center by the shaft?

If he sprayed the the running surface then it was probably a belt dressing, a temporary fix at best for a slightly loose belt.

If you elect to spray some lube on the shaft by the bearing, use it sparingly a you don't want it runing out from the centre and get it on the belt.

Are the bearings going south? Hard to tell without hearing it myself, but I haven't seen many fail. Possible though, I've seen a few, but most compressor assemblies tend to outlast the vehicle.

Steering noise? Again,difficult to diagnose a noise over the net. Does it do it while you are sitting still and turning the wheel? If so, get someone to turn the wheel while you listen and narrow the area down. Just stay clear of the moving parts (engine belts too!) If you get in the way, the power steering will crush you like a grape. Some possible causes are the upper strut bearing, ball joint, tie rod end, steering rack bushings, etc. As you can see there's alot of components, you need to at least narrow down the area it's coming from besides the front left.



972 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
he sprayed the surface of the belt, does that mean I just need a new belt?

has anyone out there done a belt replacement that can give me an idea how hard it is, or should I just give in and let a pro do it?

The other squeek I'll have to do some research on, I'm not sure exactly where it's coming from, I suppose I wasn't as helpful with that as I could have been ;)

3,552 Posts
Gigamight said:
he sprayed the surface of the belt, does that mean I just need a new belt?

has anyone out there done a belt replacement that can give me an idea how hard it is, or should I just give in and let a pro do it?
Belt dressing. Quick fix to get you out of his hair. It increases the coeffecient of friction between the belt and the pulleys so they don't slip the little bit that makes that squeak. As it wears off the squeak returns.

It's not hard to do, but it shouldn't be very expensive to have some one do it either. If you're worried about setting the tension, have someone do it. Or it may just need to be tightened to the proper setting.

If you haven't downloaded the FSM, I suggest you do. it'll tell you everything yuo need to know in section seven.

Here's the belt section from the FSM:
NOTE: The A/C drive belt self tensioner is NOT a
dynamic tensioner. After adjustment the tensioner
bracket bolts are tightened. The torsion spring is no
longer responsible for tensioning the A/C belt. The
torsion spring is only used for initial belt tensioning.
(1) Remove generator/power steering belt to gain
access to A/C belt. Refer to GENERATOR/POWER
STEERING BELT for procedure.
(2) Loosen BUT DO NOT REMOVE tensioner
locking bolt and pivot bolt (Fig. 2).
(3) Insert 1/2” drive breaker bar into square opening
on belt tensioner. Rotate tensioner counterclockwise
until belt can be removed from pulleys (Fig. 2).
(4) Slowly rotate tensioner clockwise to relieve
spring load.
Clean all foreign debris from belt pulley grooves.
The belt pulleys must be free of oil, grease, and coolants
before installing the drive belt.
Belt replacement under any or all of the following
conditions is required:
² Excessive wear
² Frayed cords
² Severe glazing
Poly-V Belt system may develop minor cracks
across the ribbed side (due to reverse bending). These
minor cracks are considered normal and acceptable.
Parallel cracks are not (Fig. 3).
NOTE: Do not use any type of belt dressing or
restorer on Poly-V Belts.

NOTE: Verify that torsion spring position is in the
new belt position before installing a NEW belt (Fig.
4). If torsion spring is not in the new belt position,
follow steps 1–7 to change the tensioner spring
from the USED belt position to the NEW belt position.
(1) Insert a 1/2” drive breaker bar into the square
opening on the tensioner. Hold counterclockwise pressure
on tensioner while removing the locking bolt
(Fig. 2).
(2) Carefully release spring load of the torsion
spring on the tensioner.
(3) Remove pivot bolt, tensioner, and spring from
front timing cover.
(4) Insert spring arm into the NEW belt position
on the tensioner (Fig. 4).
(5) Install torsion spring, tensioner, and pivot bolt.
(6) Install pivot bolt. Tighten only finger tight, at
this time.
(7) Using a 1/2” drive breaker bar, apply counterclockwise
pressure until locking bolt can be installed.
(8) Install the NEW belt by rotating the tensioner
counterclockwise until the NEW belt can be installed
on pulleys. See (Fig. 5) for belt routing.
(9) Release tensioner and remove breaker bar. Belt
is automatically adjusted with the tensioner’s torsion
(10) Tighten tensioner locking bolt and pivot bolt
to 28 N·m (250 in. lbs.) (Fig. 2).
(11) Install generator/power steering belt. Refer to
for procedure.

Here's some info from the FSM on trouble shooting:

Excessive noise that occurs when the air-conditioning
is being used may be caused by:
² Loose Bolts
² Mounting Brackets
² Loose Compressor Clutch
² Excessive High Refrigerant Operating Pressure
Verify the following before compressor repair is
(1) Compressor drive belt condition
(2) Proper refrigerant charge
(3) Thermal expansion valve (TXV) operating correctly
(4) Head pressure is normal



1,992 Posts
The A/C clutch isn't a big pain to change- about $79 at the stealership here..
A couple of sockets and a good pair of snap-ring pliers'll do ya.(assembly includes
pulley/bearing, coil,and clutch)
The FSM is a great data source!
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