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Most people don't like to have their car keyed. But in this case, it might be a good idea. 馃殬
 
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my trunk lock doesn't work either from lack of use.
frozen trunk locks are common on many cars with electric releases.
at the back they are subject to a lot of dust and other stuff.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Okay, thats good to know. I will make sure to remember it. By the way, I am planning on doing my first oil change on it ever. What oil do you guys suggest I use. The car has 157,026 miles on it and the oil light is on. I think it may be caused by the oil filter leaking. The light was also blinking when I turned the wheel and then the car shut off. Do you guys think I should high mileage or just syntheic 10W-30.
 

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Oil light coming on usually means bad oil pressure switch (rather than actual low pressure). Located right next to oil filter. Also if oil pressure switch wire is wet with oil, it can cause the low pressure light to be on dimly - if so, de-mate pressure switch connector and clean off with brake parts cleaner, let dry, re-mate. If replacing pressure switch use only part from the dealer. Aftermarket of that part often do not work correctly.

If oil light was on as the engine was stalling, that would be because oil oressure drops as rpm drops below idle rpm - IOW that's normal light operation if engine cutting off.

Why is your engine stalling? IAC valve and passage need cleaning?
 

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The oil pressure switch leaking might be what you think is the oil filter leaking. Like Peva says...dealer only on the oil pressure switch.

If you're on a tight budget go to Walmart and buy the Mopar MO-090 oil filter and 5 quarts of regular 10w-30. The 3.5 isn't as prone to sludge so synthetic isn't necessary. If you can afford synthetic would be better. If you've got an oil leak get that fixed before throwing your money away on synthetic oil.

If the oil filter is leaking it may not have been tightened enough at last change, the old filter o-ring is still on there along with the new one or the filter itself is just crap.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
I looked at the oil filter and I can see it leaking. All of the oil seems to be coming from it. I was planning on getting Quaker State 10W-30 Full Synthetic and Mopar M0-090 from Walmart. The Quaker State Full Synthetic is around $18 to 19 dollars. Also, I was going to get the FLO Tool 16 quart oil drain pan heavy duty. However, I will check the oil pressure switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
The cylinder doesn't look like it needs to be rekeyed. When I put the key in all of the pins become even. However, the lock still won't turn. There is only a slight amount of movement from the lock.
 

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Great price on the Quaker state synthetic oil.
 

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Also consider Shell Rotella T6 5W-40. It is synthetic and has some zinc in it, which has been all but removed from automobile-rated motor oils - zinc has wear prevention properties for sliding friction (which is why most car engines now have cam follower rollers). $22/5qts. at Wally World. I prefer to bump operating-temperature viscosity at higher mileage. "High-mileage" oils tend to have seal conditioners. My preference is to replace problematic (leaking) seals rather than try to condition the seals with oil additives.
 
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Also, when I spray WD-40 on it, all I get from it is dirt fluid.
i got one working once in a mini van.
it was in for something oveernight, so i took out the cylinder and submerged it in penetrant overnight.
then played around a bit the next day and got it moving again.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Okay, I will try that. Also, I lost the c-clip that holds the opening mechanism to the cylinder. Do you guys know where I can find one?
 

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Junkyard or Dealer
 

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Discussion Starter #38
I hope so too, because it would be a pain if I had to get one from the junkyard or dealer. But, before I do that I will keep looking in the trunk for it.
 

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It's a law of pysics that 2 days after you've spent a lot of time improvising to make something half assed work in an irreversible way, you'll find the part in a place you never thought of looking. :)
 
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