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Hey guys, first post here...seems to be a very informative site. I just got my dads 2000 2.7 base model Intrepid. Before he gave it to me a new alternator was put in, 120 amp stock. The stereo system I have just purchased consists of the following:

-Pioneer Head Unit
-Alpine type-r 6.5s in the front doors
-Alpine type-r 6x9s on the rear deck
-One JL 12w7 subwoofer (750 watts RMS)
-One JL 1000/1 Amplifier
-One Alpine 300/4 amplifier going to the four alpine speakers


When i have done alternator calculations it says I should be ok with a 120 amp alternator. What are you guys thoughts? I'm trying to avoid having to buy a high output alternator if I can but also do not want any dimming, my father would also be upset if he thought i was abusing the cars electrical system. 120 amp ok for my set up, or any other purchases I should make to make sure I am not overvdraining power?
 

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get a hold of a decent capacitor, that way it will store juice for your system and not put a drain on your alt/battery for those hard hitting tunes. the capacitor will also act as a decent ground loop isolator so you don't get any alternator whine
 

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Discussion Starter #3
so are you saying my alternator will be fine for my set up? i have heard that capacitors don't do much, is my situation appropriate for one? any other opinions?
 

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Let me start off by saying...I don't know you, but I like you already, and am somewhat jealous of your selection in gear. I too am on the JL path with a 500/5, 6.5 XRs, 6.5VRs, 2x 12W3v2s. Upgrade is coming very soon ( before Carlisle ) going with the 450/4,500/1 and a W7.

Your system should be ok if you don't pound that sub. I would recommend if you are going to be cranking that W7 up that you get a higher output alternator. I have dimming of the headlights with the 500/5. You are correct in avoiding the capacitor, my audio tech refuses to put one in my car, says it's a waste with my system.

If you can, I'd swap the 6x9s for another set of 6 1/2s. With that sub and amp, you don't need the bass from the speakers, but you may want a little more mids and highs instead.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sounds like i'm fine with my alternator as long as im not constantly pushing the sub to the max. Any other opinions?
 

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cap will make it so you can listen to the subs with the car off.. and it will still start..
it "stores" power drawn from the battery/alt so its not "sucking" all its power stright off the batt.. it builds up first..

ive always run off the batt/fuzebox with no cap..and in my van the alt went because of a bad ground jumping on and off (97 voyager/caravan)

since i secured the wires (making sure the ground bolted down nice and tight..etc) i havent had any probs with the van.. now moving on to the intrepid.. this is my first week of having my new amp/subs so far so good.. car starts fine everytime no excessive drain/ or any drain.. no dimming whatsoever.. i believe first alt in the car..cars 96 so 12 years old..not hurting it.. my ****s hooked up Right though..

its all about the ground.. and not using too small a gauge wire (overheating)

Your alt should be fine just dont sit it a parking lot idleing and pump it forever
 

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about the caps.. ive never ran one.. but i know people who do.. you have to let it build up for a min .. anyway maybe you should spend a hundred or two on a really good cap or a distribution block and you will see.. normal alt is good.. im always scared at night because the headlights\fogs draw alot of power ..brake lights/dash lights etc..
 

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on another note i see your 2nd gen (im ist gen 96 3.5)

my close friend drives a 2001 2.7 trep and i just sold him a 2 12inch sony explode setup (each sub is 1300 watt peak power x2) 2600 is about 760watts rms (380rms each) it pumps pretty hard and he always ****s with his car in everyway.. and shes still good.. as a matter of fact.. his power got cut becuase "they forogt to pay the bill" ..or something so he was running his tv off his car.. LOL no ****
 

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Discussion Starter #12
thanks a lot for all the info...think it sounds like im safe to not get a new alternator...anyone else? ps anyone want to trade some apline type r 6x9s for some 6.5s?
 

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cap will make it so you can listen to the subs with the car off.. and it will still start..
it "stores" power drawn from the battery/alt so its not "sucking" all its power stright off the batt.. it builds up first..

ive always run off the batt/fuzebox with no cap..and in my van the alt went because of a bad ground jumping on and off (97 voyager/caravan)

since i secured the wires (making sure the ground bolted down nice and tight..etc) i havent had any probs with the van.. now moving on to the intrepid.. this is my first week of having my new amp/subs so far so good.. car starts fine everytime no excessive drain/ or any drain.. no dimming whatsoever.. i believe first alt in the car..cars 96 so 12 years old..not hurting it.. my ****s hooked up Right though..

its all about the ground.. and not using too small a gauge wire (overheating)

Your alt should be fine just dont sit it a parking lot idleing and pump it forever
dude that first line is not true. a cap charges up durring the quick quiet moments of a song and dumps all its power durring the peaks...its an instant power dump.. its not a long term storage unit. thats what a battery is. i have this problem.. 2300w RMS with a 6 farad cap and everything dims to hell. i cant find a high output alternator for my car and apparently it cant be rebuilt. only options im told are dual alternator (limited space) or more batteries...
 

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Regardless of the car you drive running that much power you will no doubt need a high output alternator with possibly extra batteries etc.. simply to much on your electrical

oh and buddy it does build up the power and distribute it as its requested but the performance caps that are out there can build up a lot of power and by the time its built up and drained youll be on your way i wasn't talking about hours of continues play.. i was saying it help when your waiting for someone in the store or sitting in a parking lot for 15-20..maybe i shouldve elaborated more

if your gonna run 2500watts rms off you battery when the cars off.. it prob wont start..
its not always an instant power dump

So, in short, what capacitors do is store electrical energy for a brief period of time, then release it back into the circuit.






A car audio power cap works by storing large amounts of electrical power which it can then deliver to power hungry components when called upon to do so. They have an advantage over typical lead acid storage batteries because they have very low internal resistance. This allows them to deliver large amounts of power (current) very quickly. Much faster than a car's charging system can deliver that same amount of current.

Car audio power amplifiers have can have very large current demands. This is dependent on the music being played through the amplifier. Typically these currents are only needed in short bursts during transient peaks (cannon shot, bass drum strike, etc.). If the amplifier tries to pull this current from the electrical system directly it may cause a drop in voltage called a sag. This sag is equivalent to a voltage drop in the system and the size of the drop depends on the resistance of the wire from the source (battery) to the amplifier.
 

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Regardless of the car you drive running that much power you will no doubt need a high output alternator with possibly extra batteries etc.. simply to much on your electrical

oh and buddy it does build up the power and distribute it as its requested but the performance caps that are out there can build up a lot of power and by the time its built up and drained youll be on your way i wasn't talking about hours of continues play.. i was saying it help when your waiting for someone in the store or sitting in a parking lot for 15-20..maybe i shouldve elaborated more

if your gonna run 2500watts rms off you battery when the cars off.. it prob wont start..
its not always an instant power dump

So, in short, what capacitors do is store electrical energy for a brief period of time, then release it back into the circuit.






A car audio power cap works by storing large amounts of electrical power which it can then deliver to power hungry components when called upon to do so. They have an advantage over typical lead acid storage batteries because they have very low internal resistance. This allows them to deliver large amounts of power (current) very quickly. Much faster than a car's charging system can deliver that same amount of current.

Car audio power amplifiers have can have very large current demands. This is dependent on the music being played through the amplifier. Typically these currents are only needed in short bursts during transient peaks (cannon shot, bass drum strike, etc.). If the amplifier tries to pull this current from the electrical system directly it may cause a drop in voltage called a sag. This sag is equivalent to a voltage drop in the system and the size of the drop depends on the resistance of the wire from the source (battery) to the amplifier.
yea thats right, it just sounded like you were saying that you could run your system for hours on end just off the cap. to be honest im not sure how well they work... mabey the hybrids are different but my 6 farad soundstream doesent seem to be helping much, even with one sub off and the 2 extra 8's i have in the rear deck off, my voltmeter still bounces between 12 and 13.5v but who knows it may bounce between 10 and 12 withought..... to me caps = mystery.
 

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ok bottom line im running way more RMS then you, my alt. is still in one piece and is still pumping plenty. my 300 no doubt uses more juice then a base(ish) trep. both alts. are the same output so id say you are ok... get a decent cap to help with the big bass drops and get used to dimming lights... they arent going away. like i said even with my 6 farad cap, they still dim.
 

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I'm running:

3 way fronts:
6 inch, 3 inch, 1 inch.
15" power hungry sub
jl 1000/1, 300/4 and 300/2

all ran with 1/0 awg (split to 4awg to amps.
5inch ground wire.
Regular battery, regular alt (stock one)
no cap (they do have their use)
big 3

and have no dimming whatsoever.

triple check your grounds and gains....you'll be fine.

99% of people who I fix their dimming, fall under one of the two above mentioned categories.
 
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