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I recently got my hand me down 2002 intrepid i am looking for parts and or tips on rebuilding my engine cheap. If anyone has any ideas let me know proformance upgrades also wanted. I have the 2.7 liter 6 cylinder Thanks for any help.:smileyvault-newhere
 

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Heh' Roket, welcome. I would just say if it runs decently right now just drive it. There wasn't (isn't) much, if any, performance stuff produced for the 2.7. And with it's reputation, thought most of them ran just fine, and the fact it's out of production I doubt anything ever will.
I would caution tinkering with it too much because it's kinda; sensitive. I believe its biggest drawback was that the water pump was installed inside the timing cover and driven by the timing chain. The problem that created was if it leaked, as most water pumps eventually do, the coolant would go straight down into the front of the oil pan, with is exposed inside, and mix with the oil. Sometimes slowly, sometimes faster. But either way if it isn't caught in time and the car still driven it can cause all sorts of grief. And then changing the water pump is a $1,700 dealer job or can be a HUGE headache for anyone doing it for the first time. It's got those double overhead cams and the timing chain has be spot on all of the six (water pump and crank sprocket plus the four cam gears) sprockets.
So, again, if it's running ok right now, just drive it. They're comfy, BIG, fun cars. If you want to build something with some serious power find a Chevy that has a 350, car, truck anything, there's more stuff for that engine than all the others put together. And relatively cheap too.
Whatever you end up doing, good luck.
 

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You responded to a 2012 post. Just sayin'. 😄

But good post.
 

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heh
 

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I was just about to chime in... heh! So doing my first ever hear core replacement in my 98 trep, because the rad sprang a leak. So, all new cooling parts for me, and I hope to upgrade her hvac to the ATC from the MTC she was born withj. I did find a nice 02 in her color for some upgrade doohickies: fogs, atc, otis, etc. Pray for me! the dasdh is out andf not cracked yet! wish I could say the same about my nerves. she has a bit over 153xxx miles. i am assuming I need water pump and timing soon as well? Also, what about that wierd plastic piece that comes off the pipe behind the engine goes into a tee then the heater core. Do I have to go back with that? can't seem to find the right one.
 

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...Also, what about that wierd plastic piece that comes off the pipe behind the engine goes into a tee then the heater core. Do I have to go back with that? can't seem to find the right one.
Do you have the 2.7 or 3.2? The heater core supply plumbing takes slightly different parts depending on which engine. Is the part you're talking about hard plastic or rubber? Can you supply a photo?

Are you trying to replace that whole item 12 and 13 tee thing (see diagrams below) that joins the metal supply tube that is underneath the intake to the heater core and the coolant reservoir? If so, you may have to use a combination of 3/4" heater hose, a hard plastic reducer tee, and re-use the original smaller diameter hose (or a similar diameter aftermarket substitute) that goes to the coolant reservoir. (For the 3/4" heater hose, I recommend using silicone heater hose because generic aftermarket heater hose doesn't last too long in my experience. But the silicone heater hose is expensive by the foot.)


Diagram from FSM which may not be 100% accurate as to details of the parts (and is not engine-specific):
Font Automotive exterior Auto part Parallel Machine


These diagrams from the parts pdf are often incomplete, or not correct, involve a little hand-waiving, and therefore can be confusing. It's not clear to me what comes with item 12 as listed for the 3.2/3.5 - for example: Where's the tee? (is it included with item 12?), and item 13 looks to be purchasable separately, but if you purchase item 12, does item 13 come with it; and once you get that all figured out, are they even available? Which is why I said you may have to piece it together using aftermarket hoses and tee fitting - it may look like a kluge when it is completed:
Head Arm Vertebrate Organ Human body


Item 12 for the 2.7 appears to be one complete molded piece (or may be composed of separate parts held together with hose clamps) - but not sure where the "plastic" piece you refer to fits in:
Head Vertebrate Product Organ Human


"EER" reference is to 2.7; "EGG" & "ECW" reference 3.2 & 3.5. Notice that there is no separate item 13 listed for 2.7:
Rectangle Font Eyelash Circle Brand
 

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Hey thanks! I have the 2.7. the connector is on the end of the hose, no. 12, which connects to the heater core metal line just before the tee to the reservoir bottle. I have tried autozone and oreilly's and although they have similar looking parts, they are for ford or gm. I will post pics later this morning.
 

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That looks like some kind of quick disconnect. I wish I could see a photo of how it all was hooked up fom the factory. So - the order of the fittings was the metal pipe from under the intake -> that fitting -> the tee -> heater hose to heater core? . . . and then the smaller rubber hose from the center of the tee to the coolant reservoir.

So the thing circled in red is that plastic fitting?:
Font Automotive exterior Auto part Engineering Parallel


I don't remember any part that looks like that. My 2.7 was in a '99, but I would expect the '98 and '99 to be identical for that area. (I had a '98 too, but with the 3.2. I wouldn't expect that to be significantly different for the 3.2 either.) I did re-work all of that on both my cars with a hard plastic tee and the silicone heater hose like I mentioned (I also added a heat exchanger that the factory added starting in 2000MY spliced in-line with that smaller diameter rubber hose to heat the PCV hose gases), and that was 15 or 20 years ago, so if what you show is what I had from the factory before that, no surprise if I don't remember it.
 

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The plastic parts in your photos are brand new - so those are the similar Ford or GM parts that Autozone has?

I don't feel like I'm helping much, but am trying to figure it out. As I said earlier, I'm not sure once you/we figure it out if you're going to be able to find the OEM parts - unless you stumble across a dealer that has some old stock left that you might find with an on-line search of that item 12 - 04767172A'x' (AKA 4767172A'x'). < < some listings omit the leading zero, and the 'x' is a revision number that changes over time - different 'x' does not affect form-fit-function - can make searching by part number a little more complicated

EDIT - FWIW, the '04 parts pdf shows the P/N for item 12 as 04767172AI - likely would be the last revision of that part number, but try searches with and without the leading zero.

$250+ - assuming it's actually in stock. Hey! Go for it! :oops: :


 

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Ebay new-old stock @$200 - and I don't see any plastic fitting like you describe. The smaller diameter hose going to the coolant reservoir is shorter due to the in-line heat exchanger added in later years:


Are we pushing a rope here?
 

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That looks like some kind of quick disconnect. I wish I could see a photo of how it all was hooked up fom the factory. So - the order of the fittings was the metal pipe from under the intake -> that fitting -> the tee -> heater hose to heater core? . . . and then the smaller rubber hose from the center of the tee to the coolant reservoir.

So the thing circled in red is that plastic fitting?:
View attachment 41999

I don't remember any part that looks like that. My 2.7 was in a '99, but I would expect the '98 and '99 to be identical for that area. (I had a '98 too, but with the 3.2. I wouldn't expect that to be significantly different for the 3.2 either.) I did re-work all of that on both my cars with a hard plastic tee and the silicone heater hose like I mentioned (I also added a heat exchanger that the factory added starting in 2000MY spliced in-line with that smaller diameter rubber hose to heat the PCV hose gases), and that was 15 or 20 years ago, so if what you show is what I had from the factory before that, no surprise if I don't remember it.
Yes, the rear portion of number 12 is the quick connect that goes onto the end of the metal pipe, and the barb end connects to a short hose with one end of the tee fitting.
The new black one I showed you was listed as for a ford. I bought it because I thought that the inside diameter of the push on end looked to be the correct size.
 

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OK - I missed seeing where you said the black one was for a Ford.

Looking at the photos in the 2 ebay auctions, it appears that the quick disconnect does not come with the item 12 assembly, which would mean someone added it to your car, or Chrysler maybe decontented it at some point in production. It doesn't appear to be accounted for in the parts pdf's. '98 was of course the first year of production. I'm thinking that the quick disconnect would be for time savings on the final assembly production line if they did use it.

Are you determined to make it 100% factory? Otherwise, what purpose does a quick disconnect serve there for maintenance? The end of that supply pipe might be hard to get to to connect up with a clamp, so there's that.
 

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OK - I missed seeing where you said the black one was for a Ford.

Looking at the photos in the 2 ebay auctions, it appears that the quick disconnect does not come with the item 12 assembly, which would mean someone added it to your car, or Chrysler maybe decontented it at some point in production. It doesn't appear to be accounted for in the parts pdf's. '98 was of course the first year of production. I'm thinking that the quick disconnect would be for time savings on the final assembly production line if they did use it.

Are you determined to make it 100% factory? Otherwise, what purpose does a quick disconnect serve there for maintenance? The end of that supply pipe might be hard to get to to connect up with a clamp, so there's that.
No, If I have to do so, I will just slip the hose over the end of the pipe and clamp it. the only thing I can figure is that since it is the inlet line to the core, having the fitting allows for a quick flush of just the core.
 

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No, If I have to do so, I will just slip the hose over the end of the pipe and clamp it. the only thing I can figure is that since it is the inlet line to the core, having the fitting allows for a quick flush of just the core.
I was thinking too that the quick disconnect could be for the factory to plug a machine to to do the initial fill and maybe purge the air? Or not. :)
 
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