DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner
1 - 10 of 10 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I noticed my control arm bushings are bad on my front end. I’ve narrowed it down to either the control arms or the tension strut. I was hoping if someone could clarify for me which one uses the bushings so I can have them replaced. (Both sides are really bad)
Wheel Automotive tire Blue Tire Gas
 

·
Woober Goobers!
Joined
·
52,012 Posts
I believe you'll find those bushings associated with the Tension Strut.

Rock auto has quite a few different ones listed under Strut Rod Bushing section
 
  • Like
Reactions: JordanS

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,491 Posts
Your photo shows the bushing that comes built into the control arm - you don't purchase that bushing separately. The rearward end of the tension strut plugs into that bushing. The tension strut bushings that you purchase separately mount on the forward end of the tension strut where it connects to a bracket welded to the engine cradle. NOTE: The tension strut is also called the strut rod.

Your photo shows the bushing built into the middle of the control arm:
Water Automotive tire Jaw Sculpture Art

(There's also a pivot bushing on the inboard end of the control arm that connects the control arm to the engine cradle. That bushing also comes built into the control arm.)

Items 38 and 39 are the tension strut bushings that you purchase separately. They are often purchased in a kit that includes the washers - item 40:
Vertebrate Product Organism Font Line


)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Your photo shows the bushing that comes built into the control arm - you don't purchase that bushing separately. The rearward end of the tension strut plugs into that bushing. The tension strut bushings that you purchase separately mount on the forward end of the tension strut where it connects to a bracket welded to the engine cradle. NOTE: The tension strut is also called the strut rod.

Your photo shows the bushing built into the muddle of the control arm:
View attachment 42695
(There's also a pivot bushing on the inboard end of the control arm that connects the control arm to the engine cradle. That bushing also comes built into the control arm.)

Items 38 and 39 are the tension strut bushings that you purchase separately. They are often purchased in a kit that includes the washers - item 40:
View attachment 42696

)
Ok thanks a lot! I just wanted to make sure I was buying the right parts so my car can get back on the road. Are the control arms the same on both sides or is it different?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
285 Posts
You are going to need to purchase 2 new tension struts (#23) also. The ones you remove will be rusted, thinning them down where they go into the bushings both sides.
Most likely you will need to break the self locking nuts free by hand with a large breaker bar. Plenty of PB Blaster and there is a "flat" on the strut that you can hold with a large adjustable wrench.
Impact gun usually wont do it as the "impact" is adsorbed and displaced by the rubber bushing.
Be sure to torque the control arm to frame bolt with the weight of the care on it at "ride height"
 

·
Registered
2002 Chrysler 300M Special
Joined
·
2,270 Posts
Agreed regarding strut rod rusting. Extremely common for them to have worn away and still be loose inside a new bushing. Replace control and strut rod (and strut rod bushings at the cradle) together.

I just did this last summer to resolve clunking from worn ball joints. My bushings looked exactly like this and my ball joints were as floppy in the control arms as wet noodles compared to new.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
18,491 Posts
I was thinking that the supply of tension struts/strut rods had pretty much dried up, but I see Rock Auto has the actual Mopar part (04782060AB/4782060AB). 👍

The problem with greatly reduced tension strut diameter under the bushings due to corrosion is more than being loose in the bushings: The rod could break in two (they can get pretty thin) - probably wouldn't cause total suspension collapse on that wheel, but could do some expensive damage (also a possible collision) if you hit a pothole or slammed the brakes on hard.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
260 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
You are going to need to purchase 2 new tension struts (#23) also. The ones you remove will be rusted, thinning them down where they go into the bushings both sides.
Most likely you will need to break the self locking nuts free by hand with a large breaker bar. Plenty of PB Blaster and there is a "flat" on the strut that you can hold with a large adjustable wrench.
Impact gun usually wont do it as the "impact" is adsorbed and displaced by the rubber bushing.
Be sure to torque the control arm to frame bolt with the weight of the care on it at "ride height"
Ok. I’ll get them ordered then. Thanks for letting me know! Id hate to have to fix more stuff after i get everything else done
 
1 - 10 of 10 Posts
Top