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Obviously, I cannot guarantee in any way that you will have the success I did. If you choose to do this install, it will be so at your own risk. This is done a 1994 vision with 1995 intrepid parts. I accept no responsibility for any unforeseen trouble. NO warranty is expressed or implied. I am unsure of compatibility and wire colors with other year and other model vehicles

Definitions –

RKE - Remote Keyless Entry.

IP - Instrument Panel cover. Top of dash with 3 speaker grilles in it.

BCM - Body Control Module.

Things needed:

1. RKE module with both plugs and screws. Under IP cover.

2. Standard 5 blade relay and socket if possible to isolate left door unlock circuit for RKE. If no socket available, you’ll need 5 solder type female blade connectors. Some auto part stores sell relays and sockets. If you buy from there, make sure it is a 5-blade relay and not a 4-blade relay. Find one that is numbered like pik below. I found mine at the junk yard, socket and all. A lot of aftermarket alarm systems use 5 blade relays for various functions. Look around long enough and you'll find one under the hood or under the dash of something. Most late 80s to current vehicles have them on the firewall under the hood. You can find just the relay in the fuse box under the hood (also called Power Distribution Center). All you'll get is a relay though, no socket. The socket will make it easier to change the relay if needed at a later time (no guessing where which wire goes if they are all unplugged at once).

<IMG SRC="http://dodgeintrepid.net/photopost/data/501/3033BIGRELAY.JPG?5055"




3. Remote for keyless entry. Ebay $5 to $20 all day long. I have remotes from a 1997 and a 1994 controling a 1995 RKE module in my 1994 Vision and it works. Don't get one any newer than 1997, they are different. Not to sure about the 1993 remotes.

4. Wire in many colors – Blue Red Green Pink Black ECT. 10,12,14,16 and 18 gauge wire should work. When you are cutting wires for items from the junk vehicle, cut deep into the Junker harness.

5. Soldering iron or gun. Crimping is easy, and can fail. There are a lot of connections. Solder lasts forever.

6. Heat shrink tube. Tape is good, heat shrink tube is better.


Tools needed – Torx drivers, Phillips screw driver, wire strippers, ¼ inch socket set, soldering iron or gun, solder, heat shrink tube, lighter, electrical tape, zip ties

IMPORTANT: Before you attempt to install, please first read this in its entirety, several times. Then, determine if this install is for you. This is a BIG project and will take at some time to complete. Feel free to send me a private message by clicking on my user name at the top with ANY questions :icon_ques

Wire color key
VT - Violet
YL - Yellow
BK - Black
BR - Brown
BL - Blue
DB - Dark Blue
LB – Light Blue
GR - Green
DG - Dark Green
LG – Light Green
RD - Red
OR - Orange
WT - White
PK - Pink
GY - Gray
TN - Tan


Most all wires are a solid color with a different color stripe (tracer) on them. A Red wire with a White trace is noted as RD/WT. The solid color is always first and the tracer is always second. If the wire is a solid color only, say Red, it is simply noted as RD.

Wires that need to be tracked should be done with an ohm meter and not voltage w/ a light. This is so other possible sensors or modules are not hurt with too much accidentally applied voltage.

It is next to impossible to buy wire with tracers. When you need to add wire, use suggested guideline per instruction or simply use the same color wire as the main color you connecting to. Example, you need to add a couple of feet to a DB/RD wire, use DB wire. Some wire connections will require cutting an existing wire, sliding on heat shrink tube, soldering the three ends together and sealing the conection shut with the heat shrink tube. After all wires are run, try to wrap them with electrical tape (like a harness) to help protect them. Use zip ties to hold them in place if necessary.

Always make sure you use the same gauge wire when adding wire. To small of a wire can cause some serious problems, melt down or maybe even fire. To big of a wire is not good either. It will work if you use to big of a wire, but is NOT recommended.


Putting it together –

1. Disconnect battery. Remove - IP cover, radio bezel, radio, heat control, glove box, dash trim pieces, dash end covers, dash knee bolster. Instructions to remove these can be found in any manual. I have a Haynes and it worked well describing removal of these items. Practice on a Junker at the junkyard to get familiar with it. It will make your install much easier.

2. Install RKE module on top right side of dash. The mounts are to the left of the right speaker.

3. Solder and run a black wire from RKE Black connector BK/RD to the back of dash fuse box (known as junction box) connector C (C is on the back side of junction box where there are no fuses. It is a white connector with a light blue retainer) BK/RD. Splice all 3 wires together.

There are 2 wite connectors with blue retainers. The connector you need is the one towards the front of the vehicle, it is also bigger than the other one with 12 wires in it. The smaller connector that you DON"T NEED has 10 wires in it.

<IMG SRC="http://dodgeintrepid.net/photopost/data/508/3033FUSEBACK01.jpg"

<IMG SRC="http://dodgeintrepid.net/photopost/data/508/3033PWRDRLCK2.JPG"




4. Connect wires from RKE to BCM or to where noted.
Blue connector DB/WT to harness on dash DB/WT
Blue connector WT to BCM gray connector cavity 15 GY/TN
Black connector BK/WT to trunk switch next to glove box BK/WT
Black connector PK/VT to BCM gray connector cavity 21 PK/VT
Black connector OR/WT to BCM gray connector cavity 18 OR/WT
Black connector PK to harness on dash PK
Black connector BK to harness on dash BK

93-95 cars (96-97 go to next paragraph) - Black connector DG to traction control switch connector DG (located behind center dash trim piece). This is for programming the RKE and it is where Chrysler puts it from '93 - '95. You will need to run wire to this location and keep it the same color to avoid confusion in the future when programming by you or others. While the connector is there on all LH series cars weather it has traction control or not, this green wire is probably not there on your traction control switch connector. Tape this wire to the wires on the traction control connector and seal it from shorting. When this wire is grounded, the RKE is in program mode until the wire is disconnected from ground.
<IMG SRC="http://dodgeintrepid.net/photopost/data/511/3033traccon-med.jpg?5087"



On '96 and '97 models, Chrysler put the green wire in the #1 position of the DLC (Data Link Connector). The DLC is under the dash on the drivers side. It is mounted solid and this is the point where the scan tool would plug in. You will need to run wire to this location and keep it the same color to avoid confusion in the future when programming by you or others.

<IMG SRC="http://dodgeintrepid.net/photopost/data/511/3033DCL-med.JPG"

The position of the wire you need depends on how your DLC connector is mounted.


If the 2 screws that hold the connector in place have the heads pointing up, the wire in the #1 spot is on the bottom right position.

<IMG SRC="http://dodgeintrepid.net/photopost/data/511/3033scrup.jpg?8664"



If the 2 screws holding the connector in place are pointing down, the wire in the #1 spot is in the top left position.
<IMG SRC="http://dodgeintrepid.net/photopost/data/511/3033scrdwn.jpg?8585"







All of the wires mentioned below are going to the relay. They need to go to a socket for the relay or they will need solder type female spade connectors on the end of each wire to connect to relay. Most all relays have the below mentioned numbers next to each blade. 85, 86, 87, 87a and 30. Some have no numbers. To make it easy, try and find a relay with the numbers by each blade.

<IMG SRC="http://dodgeintrepid.net/photopost/data/501/3033BIGRELAY.JPG?9882"


Position relay to hang over the fuses of the junction block so if relay fails in the future, you can replace it easily. Route wires around the front top of the mounting bracket for junction block. Make sure wires do not rub on sharp edges!
Black connector PK/BK from RKE, solder a Pink wire to this and run from RKE to 86 and 87 of relay.
Run a DG wire from 85 of relay to a ground screw.
Cut wire on back of junction box connector c (same white with blue retainer connector used earlier, different wire) PK/VT 3 inches from box.
The cut PK/VT wire going into harness goes to the unlock motor in the door and needs about 1 foot of red wire soldered to it. Run this wire to 30 on relay.
Solder about 1 foot of black wire to the PK/VT cut wire on junction block. Run this to 87A of relay.
This is to isolate the left door unlock motor. When the unlock button on the remote is pressed once, the left door only will unlock. When pressed twice, all doors will unlock. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO HOOK RKE PK/VT DIRECTLY TO JUNCTION BOX OR TO HARNESS WIRE OR TO BOTH WIRES WITHOUT RELAY. YOU CAN DAMAGE RKE MODLUE AND BURN FUSES IF YOU DO THIS. MAKE SURE YOU USE PROPER GAUGE WIRE ON ALL OF THESE CONECTIONS. (10 or 12 GAUGE). TO SMALL OF A WIRE AND YOU WILL HAVE A MELT DOWN AND POSSIBLE FIRE!

5. Put dash back together and connect battery.

6. To program '93 - '95 RKE, remove dash bezel to the right of steering wheel to reveal traction control connector. On '96 and '97 models, Chrysler put the green wire in the #1 position of the DLC (Data Link Connector). The DLC is under the dash on the drivers side. It is mounted solid and this is the point where the scan tool would plug in. The position of the wire you need depends on how your DLC connector is mounted.


If the 2 screws that hold the connector in place have the heads pointing up, the wire in the #1 spot is on the bottom right position.

<IMG SRC="http://dodgeintrepid.net/photopost/data/511/3033scrup.jpg?8664"



If the 2 screws holding the connector in place are pointing down, the wire in the #1 spot is in the top left position.
<IMG SRC="http://dodgeintrepid.net/photopost/data/511/3033scrdwn.jpg?8585"


Ground the green wire you ran to the traction control connector (#1 wire on '96 '97 models), turn ignition key on (do not start engine), door locks should cycle, press any button on remote, door locks will cycle again. If you have another remote, press a button on it, door locks will cycle again. All remotes must be programmed at the same time. Turn off key and unhook green wire from ground. Replace bezel. RKE is now ready to be used. The remotes only have a range of 30 feet or so. If the remote does not seem to operate properly, try new batteries in it. When the lock button on the remote is pressed, the horn should chirp indicating the doors are locked. If you do not like the horn chirp, it can be turned off.

To turn off horn chirp, reconect the green wire to ground and turn on key. Press any button on the remote and door locks will cycle. If you have another remote, press any button on it also and door lock wil cycle again. Anytime the green wire is grounded and the key is on, all remotes have to be programed again. After remotes are programed, pick a remote, press lock then press unlock. Press lock then press unlock again the repeat one more time (lock then unlock). All the door locks and the trunk should cycle 3 times indicateing the lockout of the horn chirp. To turn the horn chirp back on, repeat the above process.


Feel free to send me a private message by clicking on my user name at the top with ANY questions :icon_ques
 
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