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Ok here is a How-to for a change of the front pads and rotors on a 2nd Gen LH (NOTE Other LH's series are similar) The wheel shown in the pictures are for the passenger side the Driver's side is similar. I take NO responsibility for any damages that may occur while following this How-to.

Tools needed:
1. 3/8 ratchet with a 10mm socket
2. C-clamp or other compatible tool to collapse piston back into caliper. Most auto parts stores rent a tool kit specifically for this reason.
3.Flat blade screwdriver
4. Caliper grease
5. Can of brake cleaner
6. Anti-seize
7. Wire brush
8. Emory cloth or medium grit sandpaper
9. Shop rags/towels
10. Hammer of decent size
11. Jack and jack stand<s>
12. Obviously New brake pads and rotors

Step 1. Raise the car and using the jack stand<s> Remove the tire/wheels

Step 2. Turn the wheel towards the side you are working on to gain access to the caliper bolts. Shown below. Remove the two bolts and set aside.

See the 2 10mm bolts

Step 3. Remove the caliper using the flat blade screwdriver as shown in the picture below. Depending on what side you are working on you will pry from the bottom for passenger side and from the top for the driver side


AND from the bottom for the passenger side

This is the reason why you need to pry from the top or bottom depending on the side you are working on. There is a "tab" that sets behind the caliper mounting bracket.

Step 4. Place the caliper on top of the rotor/caliper mounting bracket to remove the brake pads. In this picture the brake rotor was previously removed either way is fine.

Step 5.1 Using your flat blade screwdriver remove the outer brake pad.

Step 5.2 Using your fingers pry the inner pad from the caliper piston. Once done place the caliper behind the assembly. DO NOT let the caliper hang by the brake hose

Step 6. Remove the brake rotor. You may need to use your hammer to remove the brake rotor. Also pay attention you may or may not have the rotor retaining washers used during the assembly of your car. As seen in the picture my car still had them. To use the hammer to remove the rotor I suggest you aim for the "brake drum" of the rotor and hit it there usually a couple good smacks will knock it loose if need be.

Step 7. Once the rotor is removed it's time to clean the surfaces where the caliper and pads mount and slide. Using your wire brush and emery cloth or sandpaper which ever is available. Make sure to get all 3 sides of the mount and both the top and the bottom of the caliper mounting bracket. The purpose of this is to make a smooth surface for the brake caliper and pads to slide on during use. If this is not done, there is a possibility that the brake pads will wear unevenly, causing premature brake pad wear.

Step 8. Using a grease specifically for brakes grease up the previously cleaned caliper bracket slides. It's available at most auto parts stores.

Step 9. Open the box for the rotor and remove it from the plastic bag. Pay attention to the rotor you should see some form of anti-corrosion on the rotor. Using the brake cleaner and a CLEAN shop towel/rag spray the brake rotor on both sides making sure to remove all visible signs of the anti-corrosion specifically from where the brake pads will ride. If this is not done it will ruin the brake pads.

Step 10. Collapse the caliper piston into the caliper itself. I used a c-clamp but there are kits you can rent from most local parts stores for this purpose. I recommend that before you do this to remove the cap from the master cylinder. And replace once done collapsing the pistons. During this you could leave the inner brake pad mounted as to not damage the caliper piston. I did not but I have done this numerous times.

Step 11. Now get your brake pads. Depending on the brand you get the hardware may be different. As shown below are the pictures of the brake hardware I used that came with the brake pads I used. It consisted of four different size spacers to use on the load bearing side of the brake pad. I used the .10 size spacers for my application. There are several types of hardware available and it will depend on what you get as to what you use. I cannot accept responsibility for mis-use of the brake hardware. PAY ATTENTION to the directions IF included with your brake pads.

In the picture below you are looking at the right side of the picture at the brake hardware mounted on the pad IE: the silver clip

Step 12.1 Mount the brake pads to the brake caliper.
In the picture below is the inner brake pad. Your looking for the 2 prongs in the picture those prongs will clip INSIDE the brake caliper piston.

The prongs will go in the caliper piston shown below.

And will look like this once mounted.

Step 12.2 Mount the outer brake pad
You need the brake pad that has a four pronged bracket on it As seen below.

And will look like this once mounted.

Step 13. Mount the brake rotor. It's simple align the brake rotor with the lug nut studs and slide it on.

Step 14. Paying attention to the brake caliper. You need to make sure you mount it correctly.

The tab pictured below goes BEHIND the caliper mounting bracket first. so you would mount the end with the tab first making sure it gets behind the caliper mounting bracket and rotate the caliper down over the brake rotor. NOTE it is the bottom side that goes in first on the drivers side. Also you may or may not have to push the slides for the caliper bolts in towards the engine to get the caliper to rotate all the way into position.

Step 15.1 Once you have mounted the brake caliper while making sure the "tab" is mounted behind the caliper bracket. Get your caliper bolts and make sure they are clean and un-damaged. I personally use Anti-seize on my caliper bolts some may not. A light coat is all you need.


Step 15.2 BE CAREFUL MOUNTING THESE BOLTS It is easy to strip them and or the mount and you will either have to tap new threads or replace the steering knuckle. Bolt the caliper to the mounting bracket and just lightly snug the bolts once tight.. Make sure no grease or dirt is on the rotor surface clean up your tools and remount your tire/wheel and torque to spec.

Step 16. Once your wheels are mounted and torqued to spec lower the car to the ground. The next step is crucial IMHO STEP ON THE BRAKE PEDAL SLOWLY REPEAT SLOWLY while the car is NOT running, until the brake pedal gets hard and then another 5 pumps to make sure. Then take the car for a test drive. The next step is a personal opinion and is up to you whether you decide to do so or not. During the test drive I get the car up to 50-60mph then stop as fast as I can WITHOUT getting the ABS to kick in if equipped. I do this 3-4 times BEWARE the brakes will get HOT and smoke some and you may also smell them. THIS IS FINE. After this procedure then drive the car normal. Congratulations you just changed your brake pads and rotors. Pat yourself on the back for a job well done.
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