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FRESH AIR BOX FABRICATION

First is the usual disclaimer: you do this installation at your own risk.

Materials needed:
2…. pieces of 12 X 24 aluminium diamond plate (or plain, your taste) 1/16th inch
You could get one 24 X 24, but the two smaller pieces are easier to work with. As well, I used stainless steel for the side, but would advise against it as it is too hard to work with.
1…piece of aluminium “U” channel, ½” opening. Shortest possible, you only need about 8 inches (as we all do).
1….deck lid weather strip from Intrepid or some such, or suitable substitute.
Package of 10/32 stainless steel machine screws & lock washers & 6” of 1/8 steel rod (only if you want to add the under fender “scoop”)
Black paint
Silicone seal.
12 X 24 stiff cardboard & magic marker.
Bandaids, gauze, ointment, 911 on speed dial.
And, of course, the K&N type stuff.

Tools needed are pretty much what every one should have: a power jig saw with fine metal cutting blades, tin snips, usual wrenches & screw drivers.

THE PROCEDURE:
First: is to remove all of the factory intake to the level you plan on replacing – I only did from the back plastic tubing, not the throttle body.
Second: Remove both the battery ground from the fender and the battery positive from the “boost” connector. Suggest taping both ends to insulate for safety sake.
Third: remove the engine ground strap from the fender well, below the air conditioner pipe.
Four: Remove the Battery + jumper bracket and holder from rad support.
Five: Take the cardboard and cut a piece about 18-20” long by about 8-9” wide. This will be for your template to cut the side. Slide it down between the air con. Pipe and the fender well and allow it to sit on the frame rail; cut a notch out so that it can slide forward so that it goes under the rad support lip. Once this is done, press it over the stud that held the boost bracket so as to punch a hole, then do the same at the other end on the stud that held the engine ground strap. Remove and cut the ground hole as a slot. Now cut a notch for the + battery cable that comes from the alternator. We’ll worry about the other cables later. With the cardboard in the opening, set the intake tube in place, and cut away the cardboard until it sits where you want, but lower than the top edge of the side piece, to allow clearance for the top. Also, be sure to allow another ½” for the addition of the weather stripping seal. When you are done, the template should look like the “side” drawing.
Place the template. Flat on you work bench, fender side up, the place your metal on top, checker plate (if you’re using it) down. Flip it over, , the square the template to a corner and tape in place. The use the magic marker top trace out the outline. Place the metal on a soft towel or something to protect it, then carefully cut out the side. A bit of fitting should get a nice snug fit. When done and you are satisfied, place a length of weather stripping along the frame rail; then another piece along the bottom of the side piece from the battery cable notch to the front. The two will pretty-much seal the bottom edge. Place the battery + cable over the frame rail near the front, under the air con. Pump; place the plate in place. The battery cable should be held between the two seals, but with enough slack to move easily ie: not pinched. Re-install the engine ground strap and tighten the nut; then re-install the nut on the battery boost stud (under the rad support lip). DO NOT reinstall the boost bracket – more on that later.
Now add weather stripping to the exposed top edge , folding it around the notch cut for the intake tube. It won’t be perfectly smooth, but will do the job.
Six: cut an 8” length of the U channel.
Seven: Get some more of your cardboard, and fit it to the opening now formed by the fender, fender well, new side and rad support. You will note that the front edge is cut to fit around the hood snubber. You should allow about ½” all around for the weather stripping on all 4 sides and the notch for the air intake. See the measurements and notes on the drawings. Follow the above steps for cutting out the lid. When you are done, Place weather stripping on lid, and then the U channel on the back edge. Place the lid in the opening, so that it butts up against the fender lower lip, and then the weather strip on the right side “locks” into the strip on the side. Mark where the U channel sits against the fender well, then remove it from the lid and drill two 1/8” holes in it, and correspondingly smaller holes in the fender well; silicone the back edge, and use two of the large headed body screws to hold it to the fender well.
This now becomes the rear anchor for the lid.
You can now replace the lid, and trim the front edge so that the weather strip on that edge will sit under the snubber, “lock” the right side weather strips back together, and …. thus the whole thing is locked in place, but easily removable at any time.
A word regarding the intake tube: I had to shorten the long end by about 3” in order for the filter to clear the inner fender. No big deal, but something to be aware of.
Eight: If you so desire, the “air scoop” underneath is bent as per the drawings. Basically, the back edge just pushes up between the fender liner and the battery box, and is bent to a “U” shape to spread the two apart.
Put weather stripping on all edges to stop rattles and keep it snug. The hanger has to be cut by trial and error, but is not difficult. It fits into the notch of the battery box as shown, and the edge is bent over to “hang” there. Put a bit of rubber hose to insulate it. A 1/8” hole is drilled in the left edge of the scoop, and mated to a hole in the air dam, and held in lace with a SS machine screw, with flat & lock washers. Either remove your tire, or crank it to the left and remover the battery access cover. Pull the upper lip up snug, and measure and bend the length of 1/8” steel rod to go in the hole you drilled, and over the lip in the frame to the left of it. Again, a piece of rubber tubing is needed to insulate it. A spray of paint will stop it from rusting. Replace the fender liner.
NINE: That pesky battery booster connection. Remover the bracket from the posts; take it to either a sturdy steel vice or something, and beat the living crap out of it, until the whole thing is flat. (if yours has the hanging lip on the bottom, cut it off first) Once you have it flattened out, bend the locking tab up to a 90 degree angle. Paint it black to replace what you beat off, and while it dries, remove the rad support bolt just to the right of your new air box. Replace it with one about ¾” longer and crank it tight. When the bracket is dry, place it UNDER the rad support, on the protruding end of said bolt, install a flat washer and appropriate nut and tighten. Replace the wires on the battery booster ( the one you left down beside the new air box) ands snap the booster back on the bracket. It should clear the air con piping sufficiently, if not bend the bracket slightly ‘til it does. Replace the battery ground strap, it should nicely come up the fender well and peak out behind the air intake tube.

You are NOW DONE!!! You’ll notice the increased horsepower!!! The increased gas mileage!!! The new girls you’ll attract!!!!

Pictures and dimension are here:

http://img78.photobucket.com/albums/v297/torontofirecaptain/
 

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