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Discussion Starter #1
OK, I gotta get my mind off this tragedy...

I have had the check engine light on for a while [1 week or so], and finally took it in to a mechanic to ask about it. I didnt want to pay them $100 bucks to diagnose the problem, so I tried to get as much info out of him as possible. Anyway, I did the ignition code trick and got 12 [recent battery disconnect, which was true] and 31.

I looked it up and it is "evap purge flow system failure".

I went to the library to get the repair and diagnose instructions, and it says i must first use a Scan Tool to clear all the codes, then warm up the engine, blah blah...
it also talks about using an air compressor to check the vaccum of the tubes.

BTW, I changed the air intake about 1 1/2 months ago, mabey a little less.
It might have something to do with the purge solenoid [valve thing attached to the engine side of the air box] because i had to tie wrap it to the bracket for the cone filter.

suggestions? I could do it myself, but i dont have a scan tool, and i dont think i have an air compressor.

also, i have noticed im sucking gas lately, ever since i put my cone filter on, it gets better and worse intermittenly, last week or so I only get 300 miles to a tank

ANY and ALL help is much appreciated
 

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Hey bro. Did you check for battery voltage at the Purge control selenoid? First check for vacuum pressure though.

Oh and the gas thing..it's a common side effect beefin' up the car. ...lay off the gas..hehe...it's all in your foot... :eek:
 

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Discussion Starter #3
naa, the gas thing isnt me.. ive tried to lay off the gas for like half a tank, u know take it easy, but she still sucks it down...
I thought that putting on the cone filter was supposed to improve gas mileage.

Mabey its just that she needs a tune up. Gonna try and do as much as I can tomorrow, change oil, spark plugs, add additives, esp. for the sticky lifter thing, umm, anything else I might want to do, I just had the 90,000 mile tranny service done about 5-10k ago, [I know it was late, but I got the car with 99,000 miles on it]

So yea anything else? Anyone know how much i should spend on wires? And how long I should allow to install them? [not sure if im gonna do this right now, but soon, within a few months at most]
 

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Why do you need a scan tool? You already have it by the self diagnostics. To clear the codes, just disconnect the battery for about 10 minutes. When you reconnect the battery, you can test it by doing the ignition key trick, you should only see 1 - 2 - 5 - 5.

According to your code, you have a vacuum leak I suspect. Why do you need an air compressor to test a vacuum line? Start the car up, and check all your hoses. Either one is collapsed, or broken. Bend them in half, and check for excessive cracks. Replace the ones that you think need repair.

Why spend your money on spark plugs, and an oil change, when that has nothing to do with a vacuum leak?

Worst case scenario, you need to replace a part, or replace the intake gasket. No big project, actually pretty simple...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
ok, the exact code reads "evap purge flow monitor failure" and I got information out of a mitchell book, seems like its written specifically for mechanics [talked about the "customers car" etc.] anyway, there was a test number next to the code, and it says to use a scan tool to erace the DTC's [Diagnostic Trouble Codes] and then start the engine, let it warm up, then shut it off, then turn ignition on, then check that theres no flow for 1-2 minutes, and if there is...... It goes on, and later says to say to connect a vaccume gauge to each end of the purge solenoid..

Well, aggressor, The battery thing would work and would get around buying a scanner, but Id still need a vaccume gauge [except of course if i find the problem before that step, which is #6]

As for the tune up, I've been wanting to do that anyway, Its time to change the oil [5-6k] and I want to do the spark plugs, and I have that tick in my top end, and I wanny see if that additive will make it go away.

So, anybody know how much a vaccume gauge costs?... also, anything else I should consider for my tune up? Im hopeing that that is what will get my gas mileage back up. [not to mention improve performance, mabey not horses, but make it run better]
 

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there was a test number next to the code, and it says to use a scan tool to erace the DTC's [Diagnostic Trouble Codes] and then start the engine, let it warm up, then shut it off, then turn ignition on, then check that theres no flow for 1-2 minutes, and if there is...... It goes on, and later says to say to connect a vaccume gauge to each end of the purge solenoid..
Okay, you clear the code, then you start the engine, let it warm up, then shut it off, then turn ignition on, then check that there is no flow for 1-2 minutes.

How will you have flow if the engine is off?

I would have to look at it better, but just to take a swag, (Stupid Wild Ass Guess), sounds like you have a bad purge selenoid, or a vacuum leak going into, or out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
yea, well, I'll definately find it all out now! Earlier today my baby suddenly overheated [In a Taco Bell drive-thru] and dumped her coolant fluid.

I think that it's the water pump, kause it probably hasn't been replaced yet. I got the car at 99k and it now it has 115k

It doesnt have any hose leaks, and it didnt look like the fluid was running throught the system at all after we filled it back up [with water, but there was coolant left in the bottle and some in the tank, but very little]

Anyway, they will put it on the scanner tomorrow morning, and tell me everything thats wrong.

BTW, how much does replacing the water pump cost, or what should i expect?
 

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the part is cheap, but the labor to get at is is what kills. i had mine done when they were already inside the engine doing routine maintenance. if i'm not mistaken that part of the repair job cost upwards of $600. if you have the expertise and the time, i highly recommend you do it yourself.
 

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What did you do buy a lemon? First a vacuum leak, and now a coolant leak.

Hope you get that fixed, and all goes well for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
No, it's not a lemon, ive never had any problems till this, the vaccume leak wasnt affecting anything, ecxept possibly the gas mileage. The warranty is good for im pretty sure 36k miles, and its been 16, so I'm pretty sure that it'l be ok. I'm hoping that I dont have to attempt it myself.

We shall see.
 
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