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Discussion Starter #1
Well this car has brought nothing but bad luck I swear i hate it and wanna sell it :).
So im drivin to the mall and go to stop and the abs is goin nuts but no lights, figure maybe just the one time nope it does it like everytime i stop! I pulled the ABS and its fine...but i got that nice vacuum leak when applyin breaks so it sounds like brake booster time!
I have done it in my tbird b4 not fun :(.
What should I take off to take it out?
Anyone have a diagram or write up for me?

Jay
 

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Here you go ! :

Power Brake Booster

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

See Figures 1 and 2


Fig. 1: Remove the four nuts that attach the booster to the dash panel. Access the nuts from inside the vehicle




Fig. 2: Slide the booster up and to the right, then tilt out and up to remove



Chrysler Corporation's LH vehicles basic power brake system uses a Bendix power booster.

Disconnect the negative battery cable.

Remove both wiper arm assemblies and the cowl panel to expose the wiper module.

Remove the 5 screws attaching the module to the dash panel. Remove the module.

Remove the 2 nuts attaching the master cylinder to the brake booster. Slide the master cylinder carefully off the mounting studs and allow the assembly to rest against the left shock tower.

Disconnect the vacuum hose from the brake booster check valve. DO NOT remove the check valve from the booster assembly.

From under the instrument panel, position a small tipped prying tool between the center tang on the power brake booster input rod to brake pedal pin retaining clip. Rotate the tool enough to allow the retainer clip center tang to pass over the end of brake pedal pin and pull the retainer clip off pin. Discard retainer clip.

From under the instrument panel, remove the 4 nuts attaching the power booster assembly to the dash panel.

Slide the booster up and to the right on the dash panel, then tilt outboard and up to remove.

Do not attempt to disassemble the power brake unit as the booster is serviced only as a complete assembly.

To install:

Position the power brake unit on the dash panel and secure using the retaining screws. Tighten the mounting nuts to 21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).

Position the master cylinder onto the booster mounting studs and secure with mounting nuts tightened to 21 ft. lbs. (29 Nm).

Reconnect the vacuum hose to the brake booster check valve.

Coat the bearing surface of the brake pedal pin with Lubricate® or equivalent. Reconnect the brake booster input rod to the brake pedal pin and install a new retainer clip. Do not reuse the old retainer clip during installation.

Check stop light operation.

Install the wiper module and the cowl panel onto the vehicle.

Install the wiper arm assemblies onto the pivots. Reconnect the washer hoses.

Connect the negative battery cable.

Test the brake pedal feel. When satisfied, test drive the vehicle to verify brake system operation.
 

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sounds like a wheel speed sensor to me. A bad booster i don't think would make the abs go crazy, was it doing the whacky pulsing noise liek when ur skidding in snow or sumtin, if so i'd check the speed sensors
 

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Don't feel bad. My dodge is currently sitting due to fuel leaks and a bad driverside caliper (after just installing new mounts, intake job and tune up), the Acclaim is missing its entire front end suspension, and my only working car is the sable.

Just get-r-done and be happy with your car, it loves you dispite wanting to empty your wallet. Thats what cars do :)
 

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Better sell it ;)

*gets wallet out*
 

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Discussion Starter #7
well in the snow the abs kicks on....pulses like normal. But now its been raining for a few days but the roads arnt slippy and like evey time I stop the abs kicks in but no ABS lite comes on? I pulled the ABS fuse and the car stoped normal.
I can hear a hiss when i hit the brakes but maybe that is me being picky? My dad was telling me the sound is normal bc its building the pressure up.
Anyways Im going out right now to check it out and i bet I dont find a problem :)

My dad thinks it my just be a dirty abs sensor.

Jay
 

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Matt86 said:
Don't feel bad. My dodge is currently sitting due to fuel leaks and a bad driverside caliper (after just installing new mounts, intake job and tune up), the Acclaim is missing its entire front end suspension, and my only working car is the sable.

Just get-r-done and be happy with your car, it loves you dispite wanting to empty your wallet. Thats what cars do :)

fuel is still leaking? i thought you got that fixed..

oh and to the OP.. definatly sounds like a bad/dirty ABS sensor..

my abs system is flakey as well, i have a bad sensor, but its not consistant enough to run a diagnostic on it.. quite annoying..
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well i get no ABS lites either? I was out in my garage checking doesnt seem to have a fluid on the outside anywhere near the vacuum lines on the brake booster.
But i noticed something...when I start the car and hold the brake a hear a clunk sound. sometime right away sometime when I let go. Faulty master cyclender? sounds like up top so either that or te brake booster.
But I pumped the brakes when the car is off I get about 3 pumps then it is solid.

I have no clue and the main reason I hate it is bc I wanna go up to grand bend this weekend !!!!!!!!!!!!!


jay
 

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I get that clunk sound you just mentioned, I remember reading something in the service manual that stated that was normal and part of the ABS system.

I don't worry about that noise on my trep, stange thing is it doesn't do this every time.
 
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