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Discussion Starter #1
I noticed last week that it sounded like someone was whacking my left front tire with a rubber mallet everytime I turned a sharp turn. Kept driving kept doing it.

Today I jacked the front end up thinking it was probably a ball joint going bad. I shook the tires and the left front tire is obviously needing some innter tie rod bushings. Scare you can shake the front tire about an inch back and forth without the other tire moving.

So I called the parts place and the damn TRW 1 piece bushing is like $5 and the 2 piece bushing is $9. I read somewhere that it was easier to put the two piece bushing in.

Can you use either 1 or 2 piece? Like the one piece is just cheaper? or do you have to use whichever one came out of the car. I can imagine it is going to be a PITA to get the bushings back in there so I want to make this SMOOOTH.

Thanks for input.
 

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The 2 piece is much easier if you are going to do it yourself. I did mine recently with the one piece and just had the local mechanic/auto store press the new bushes in.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So it does not matter what type of bushing the car came with you can put in either a 1 or 2 piece?
 

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Personally i'd prefer the 1 piece but i think many have used the 2 piece without a problem.
 

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Liek the Aussie man said...if you're going to do it yourtself, the 2-piece is much easier. If you have a shop close by that can press the i-piece bushings in, then you can also go that route. I replaced mine a year or two ago...I used the MOOG 2-piece set from NAPA. I think it was about $12 with new bolts and locking plate. It's more a matter of preference, however, I've heard that the 1-piece bushings will last longer...but that might be a matter of opinion also.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Follow up. I went with the 2 peice set from Moog. $16 from O'reillys. It was not to big of a problem it took me about 1 hours to get the tie rods out then about 1.5 hours to replace the bushings and get it back together. I had a hard time getting the bolts to thread back in right. It kept wanting to cross thread.

Also be careful when you do these because on the drivers bolt the head of the socket got pinned againt a bracket and you could not change the direction. So I would suggest finger or wrenching the last few turns out.

Thanks


Yes you can use the 2 piece if your car came with 1.
 

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sorry to revive an old post, but can you, or anyone, give me a quick how-to on replacing the inner tie-rod bushings??? my driver's side is shot and i am tired of the clunk. i bought the two piece by moog also. somebody pleeeeeeeaaaaaaasssseeee
help me out!!!!! TIA

--rudy--
 

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http://www.dodgeintrepidchat.net/02lhe/02lhe.pdf


REMOVAL - INNER TIE ROD
(1) Remove the battery ground cable from the
ground stud on the shock tower and isolate the
ground cable by installing the cable isolator on the
ground stud (Fig. 33).
(2) Remove caps from both wiper arms at the
attachment to the pivots to expose the wiper arm
attaching nut. Remove the nut attaching each wiper
arm to its pivot (Fig. 34).
(3) Remove the wiper arms from the pivots. Wiper
arms are removed from the pivots by rocking them
back and force on the pivots until they can be pulled
off the pivots.
(4) Remove the wiper module cover and cowl cover
from the vehicle (Fig. 35).
(5) Remove the 8 bolts attaching the reinforcement
to the strut towers and the 1 bolt attaching the wiper
module to the reinforcement (Fig. 36). Remove the
reinforcement from the vehicle.
(6) Remove the in-line resonator and inlet hose
from the throttle body and air let hose coming from
the lid of the air cleaner housing (Fig. 37).
(7) Raise the vehicle on a frame contact hoist until
the front tires of the vehicle are just off the floor. See
Hoisting in Lubrication And Maintenance.
(8) Remove front wheel and tire assembly from
side requiring repair.
(9) Remove the nut attaching the outer tie rod end
to the steering arm on the strut.
10) Remove the tie rod end from the steering arm
of the strut using Puller, Special Tool C-3894–A (Fig.
39).
(11) Turn the steering wheel all the way to the full
right position.
(12) Bend back the retaining tabs on the mounting
plate for the tie rod to steering gear mounting bolts
(13) Remove the bolt fastening the inner tie rod
requiring service to the steering gear (Fig. 41). Be
careful not to loose the washer behind the tie rod.
(14) Loosen the bolt fastening the opposite inner
tie rod to the gear, but do not fully remove it.
(15) Rotate the loose end of the mounting plate out
of the way.
(16) Remove the tie rod assembly from the vehicle
through the wheel opening.
(17) Loosen the pinch bolt at the outer to inner tie
rod adjustment sleeve.
(18) Remove outer tie rod from adjustment sleeve
and inner tie rod.
INSTALLATION - INNER TIE ROD
(1) Install the outer tie rod into the adjustment
sleeve on the inner tie rod. Screw the tie rod in until
the exposed thread length on the outer tie rod is
equal to the exposed threads on the adjuster. Make
sure no more than 20 mm thread length is exposed
on either the tie rod or the adjuster sleeve (Fig. 42).
Do not tighten the adjustment pinch bolt at this
time.
CAUTION: When setting the front Toe on the vehicle,
the maximum dimension of exposed threads
allowed on the adjuster and outer tie rod cannot
exceed the distance shown in (Fig. 42). If the maximum
distance is exceeded, inadequate retention of
either the adjuster or the outer tie rod can result.
This condition can cause separation of the outer tie
rod end from the inner tie rod. Ensure that adjustment
sleeve pinch bolts are torqued to the required
specification when Toe setting procedure is completed.
(2) Install the tie rod assembly through the tie rod
hole in the wheel opening inner fender.
(3) Install the outer tie rod on the steering arm of
the strut. Install the tie rod steering arm nut.
Do not tighten the nut at this time.
(4) Align the inner tie rod with the mounting hole
in the center take off on steering gear. Rotate the
mounting plate into position over the tie rod. Install
tie rod attaching bolt through tie rod and washer
into steering gear.
(5) Bend retaining tabs against heads of tie rod
attaching bolts (Fig. 40).
(6) Place the front wheels in the straight-ahead
position.
(7) Tighten the outer tie rod steering arm nut to a
torque of 37 N·m (27 ft. lbs.).
(8) Install the wheel and tire assembly. Install and
tighten wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence
until all nuts are torqued to half specification. Then
repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified
torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.).
(9) Lower the vehicle.
(10) Install the in-line resonator and inlet hose on
the throttle body and air inlet hose coming from the
lid of the air cleaner housing (Fig. 37).
(11) Install the reinforcement on the vehicle (Fig.
36). Install the 8 bolts attaching the reinforcement to
the strut towers. Install the bolt attaching the wiper
module to the reinforcement.
(12) Install the covers over the wiper module and
the cowl (Fig. 35). Install and securely tighten the
attaching screws.
(13) Install the wiper arms on the pivots (Fig. 34).
Install and securely tighten the wiper arm to pivot
attaching nuts. Install the caps on the wiper arms
covering the pivot nuts.
(14) Install the battery ground cable onto the
ground stud on the shock tower and install nut.
(15) Adjust front toe. Refer to Wheel Alignment in
Suspension.
 

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do you have to remove the tie rod to get to the inner bushings??? i was hoping i would be able to leave them on and work on the bushings from the engine bay??
 

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It'll be almost impossible to get the new bushing in with it on the car, so yes, you need to take it off. Just make sure you don't turn the outer tie rod end. Undo the nut at the knuckle and knock it out.... easy peasy... :)
 
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Depending on how badly worn your bushings are, if they are worn to the point where they are broken apart and you can pull them out easily, you can get the 2 piece bushings and pop them in without taking the tie rod off.
 

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do i need a tool or something to get the bushings out of the tie rod? or will my super human strength suffice?????
 

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If your bushings are still in pretty good shape, they are going to need to be pressed out. I imagine you could probably hack at them and rip them out to save yourself the trouble of getting the tool or something else. If you go this route though, you should get the 2 piece bushings. If you go with the one piece ones, you'll need to press them in anyway. I know that is the way I would do it!
 

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Here's an idea to make a homemade tool to pull the old bushings. Find a bolt that will fit inside the old bushing, but the head has to be small enough to fit inside the tie rod end. Feed it thru and on the other end you will need a socket. The inside of the socekt needs to be big enough to fit the bushing into it, but the outer wall needs to sit on the body of the tie rod. Place a nut on the end of the bolt and using two wrenches, tighten the nut as you hold the head of the bolt with the other wrench (a socket wrench will probably work best on the bolt head). As you are tightening it, the head of the bolt should pull the bushing out and into the socket on the other end. I've used similar methods for removing and installing U-joints without a press.

As far as putting in the new ones, well that's the reason why they make a 2 piece design so that the DIY'er can do them in the driveway without any special tools.
 
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