[Limpyintrepid]

2004 Dodge Intrepid. 2.7 engine. 208k miles, had ECM problems a couple years ago and replaced with a used one. Car went into limp mode driving a couple weeks ago…has done a few times since. Every time I turn the car off and back on, it’ll drive clean until it throws again. I initially took to Autozone where it threw codes P0841 and P1776…I already took it to a transmission guy and he said it’s not the transmission, said it shifted like butter and he thought the old ECM could be the problem. He said he cleared the codes, and the engine light came back on and he was getting different codes the next time so he figured it could be wiring/sensor/ECM related. So I bought a reflashed one from FlagshipOne, put it in…droves 60 miles fine. Then it threw limp mode once more…reset, car was fine. So the ECM didn’t fix it.

I continued driving it a few weeks. Had a battery code throw for low voltage, car was turning on then dying…battery was old, replaced that. Car still showed low voltage, like 12 when testing…we took alternator off, went to Autozone, they tested it and said alternator was fine…we put it back on, and all of a sudden it showed 14v. Was hoping maybe everything was battery/alternator related.

I will add, it only goes limp when I’m slowing down and coming to a stop. And again, it’s not every time. But when it happens, it’s going down from gear 2 to gear 1, and then it’ll throw back into gear 2 for limp mode. The first time it happened, my engine light came on while I was driving 55 mph, not shifting…then when I creeped to the next stop, it went limp mode. After the transmission guy had it, he’d reset the codes and the engine light was off for the next 50-100 miles before it came back on and went limp. After I turn off/on, engine light stays on but like I mentioned, I had driven a couple hundred miles the past couple of days with no limp engagement despite the light being on.

Fluid levels are all good…I did have a transmission fluid leak in the summer but levels are good currently. It’s been low before and I didn’t have the limp problem.

i just had a second person look at the car. They drove it 50-60 miles, were not able to experience the car going limp. He said the codes he does see relate to the solenoid but with the car not wanting to limp, he couldn’t confirm it while hooked up and driving. I worry I’ll change the solenoid and not fix the problem, but I’m not sure what else to do. I got a quote for $750ish for solenoid, but the guy did say when a solenoid goes bad, it typically is bad and will trigger limp time and time again. My limping is intermittent.

Appreciate any and all feedback.

 

[D725U]

It’s likely the solenoid pack that’s failing in the transmission. I’m having a similar problem with my 94 - it started randomly going into limp mode about two weeks ago. A local transmission shop with a MT-2500 scanner was able to pull two codes from the TCM - 38 and 42 (42 according to the FSM creates a limp mode condition when it detects a fault with the 2/4 solenoid).

Resetting the codes did nothing. Good luck finding a solenoid pack since they are unobtainium from Chrysler and apparently they can’t be rebuilt.

 

[Limpyintrepid]

It’s likely the solenoid pack that’s failing in the transmission. I’m having a similar problem with my 94 - it started randomly going into limp mode about two weeks ago. A local transmission shop with a MT-2500 scanner was able to pull two codes from the TCM - 38 and 42 (42 according to the FSM creates a limp mode condition when it detects a fault with the 2/4 solenoid).

Resetting the codes did nothing. Good luck finding a solenoid pack since they are unobtainium from Chrysler and apparently they can’t be rebuilt.

Yeah a new solenoid is out the question, gonna need to be a used or aftermarket one, unfortunately. Would consider getting a new/used car, but it’s only seen a few winters…no rust, shifts nice, no issues outside this limp problem.

 

[LUNAT1C]

It's the solenoid block. Everything you noted is 1:1 common to the solenoid block failing. The issue will not be resolved until it's replaced with a good one.

Each time you clear the code, you'll be able to get maybe 100 miles out of it before the code trips again, and like the cinematic masterpiece featuring Keanu Reeves known as "Speed" when the car drops under 50mph it will go into limp mode and not shift beyond 2nd gear until the car is repaired or the code is cleared again.

It's a common enough failure on 02-04 LHs that I had mine replaced with new Mopar when I had my transaxle rebuilt, even though I wasn't have that issue. It didn't make sense not to do it while it was out.

You can probably find replacement units on eBay, a few folks on the 300M Club have had success in recent years going that route.

 

[Limpyintrepid]

It's the solenoid block. Everything you noted is 1:1 common to the solenoid block failing. The issue will not be resolved until it's replaced with a good one.

Each time you clear the code, you'll be able to get maybe 100 miles out of it before the code trips again, and like the cinematic masterpiece featuring Keanu Reeves known as "Speed" when the car drops under 50mph it will go into limp mode and not shift beyond 2nd gear until the car is repaired or the code is cleared again.

It's a common enough failure on 02-04 LHs that I had mine replaced with new Mopar when I had my transaxle rebuilt, even though I wasn't have that issue. It didn't make sense not to do it while it was out.

You can probably find replacement units on eBay, a few folks on the 300M Club have had success in recent years going that route.

Thanks for the response! Yea I've reserved myself to that being the problem, looking at little under $1000 to have it done by someone. Any recommended eBay reseller specifically? I'd looked there...was thinking about doing it ourselves (my Dad and I)...watched a YouTube video and it seems a little tedious but manageable? Figure it'd save $300-$400...but also may be better just to have it done for peace of mind and saving hassle.

 

[D725U]

It's a common enough failure on 02-04 LHs that I had mine replaced with new Mopar

Do you recall if the same part number for the 1st gens continued on with the 2nd gens? My parts catalogue lists the solenoid pack as Mopar #4539766 for the 93-96 model years. Chrysler has nothing in stock and the trans shop I'm dealing with is having a hard time finding a Mopar unit through their suppliers.

 

[LUNAT1C]

Thanks for the response! Yea I've reserved myself to that being the problem, looking at little under $1000 to have it done by someone. Any recommended eBay reseller specifically? I'd looked there...was thinking about doing it ourselves (my Dad and I)...watched a YouTube video and it seems a little tedious but manageable? Figure it'd save $300-$400...but also may be better just to have it done for peace of mind and saving hassle.

I'm not sure there's any one seller that stands out above the rest. Search "A606 solenoid pack" or "42LE solenoid pack" and check the reputation of the seller.

Do you recall if the same part number for the 1st gens continued on with the 2nd gens? My parts catalogue lists the solenoid pack as Mopar #4539766 for the 93-96 model years. Chrysler has nothing in stock and the trans shop I'm dealing with is having a hard time finding a Mopar unit through their suppliers.

I just checked eBay and saw a slew of listings saying "93 and up". That doesn't mean they're accurate (just ask the aftermarket if the front strut mounts are the same or different side to side... they'll give you the wrong answer), but I can't imagine the 42LE/A606 Ultradrive had very extensive changes, but I don't know 1st gens very well.

 

[polmanter74]

2004 Dodge Intrepid. 2.7 engine. 208k miles, had ECM problems a couple years ago and replaced with a used one. Car went into limp mode driving a couple weeks ago…has done a few times since. Every time I turn the car off and back on, it’ll drive clean until it throws again. I initially took to Autozone where it threw codes P0841 and P1776…I already took it to a transmission guy and he said it’s not the transmission, said it shifted like butter and he thought the old ECM could be the problem. He said he cleared the codes, and the engine light came back on and he was getting different codes the next time so he figured it could be wiring/sensor/ECM related. So I bought a reflashed one from FlagshipOne, put it in…droves 60 miles fine. Then it threw limp mode once more…reset, car was fine. So the ECM didn’t fix it.

I continued driving it a few weeks. Had a battery code throw for low voltage, car was turning on then dying…battery was old, replaced that. Car still showed low voltage, like 12 when testing…we took alternator off, went to Autozone, they tested it and said alternator was fine…we put it back on, and all of a sudden it showed 14v. Was hoping maybe everything was battery/alternator related.

I will add, it only goes limp when I’m slowing down and coming to a stop. And again, it’s not every time. But when it happens, it’s going down from gear 2 to gear 1, and then it’ll throw back into gear 2 for limp mode. The first time it happened, my engine light came on while I was driving 55 mph, not shifting…then when I creeped to the next stop, it went limp mode. After the transmission guy had it, he’d reset the codes and the engine light was off for the next 50-100 miles before it came back on and went limp. After I turn off/on, engine light stays on but like I mentioned, I had driven a couple hundred miles the past couple of days with no limp engagement despite the light being on.

Fluid levels are all good…I did have a transmission fluid leak in the summer but levels are good currently. It’s been low before and I didn’t have the limp problem.

i just had a second person look at the car. They drove it 50-60 miles, were not able to experience the car going limp. He said the codes he does see relate to the solenoid but with the car not wanting to limp, he couldn’t confirm it while hooked up and driving. I worry I’ll change the solenoid and not fix the problem, but I’m not sure what else to do. I got a quote for $750ish for solenoid, but the guy did say when a solenoid goes bad, it typically is bad and will trigger limp time and time again. My limping is intermittent.

Appreciate any and all feedback.

I have bought a vin flashed pcm from flagship one and it was faulty threw a EGR code even though EGR valve and tubing is brand new. They knowingly sell bad pcms. I do have a refurbished pcm for sale for a 2000 dodge intrepid 2.7

 

[Blackwater5dad]

I just went through this.

If the p1776 code trips while you're cruising at speed, the car won't drop into limp mode until you're speed drops below 45 mph. When my check engine light came on while I was driving down the interstate, I knew the transmission likely triggered the p1776 again. I would just maintain speed until the next exit, pull off, stop and restart the car and it would be fine for the rest of the day.

P1776 means the low reverse pressure switch detects pressure when it shouldn't. This can be due to a faulty pressure switch or an internal leak in one of the slide valves in the valve body. I was able to see it occur on my scan tool. The pressure switches are part of the solenoid pack. In my case, I replaced the valve body and the solenoid pack with a rebuilt combination unit off Ebay. This worked for me.

Since you also have a p0841, which is a pressure switch circuit code, I would suspect the pressure switch itself, thus, if it was me, I would probably just replace the solenoid pack first. The problem is, you have to remove the valve body to replace the solenoid pack. You have to decide how much your time is worth and, if you guess wrong, are you prepared to go back in to replace the valve body.

 

[polmanter74]

I just went through this.

If the p1776 code trips while you're cruising at speed, the car won't drop into limp mode until you're speed drops below 45 mph. When my check engine light came on while I was driving down the interstate, I knew the transmission likely triggered the p1776 again. I would just maintain speed until the next exit, pull off, stop and restart the car and it would be fine for the rest of the day.

P1776 means the low reverse pressure switch detects pressure when it shouldn't. This can be due to a faulty pressure switch or an internal leak in one of the slide valves in the valve body. I was able to see it occur on my scan tool. The pressure switches are part of the solenoid pack. In my case, I replaced the valve body and the solenoid pack with a rebuilt combination unit off Ebay. This worked for me.

Since you also have a p0841, which is a pressure switch circuit code, I would suspect the pressure switch itself, thus, if it was me, I would probably just replace the solenoid pack first. The problem is, you have to remove the valve body to replace the solenoid pack. You have to decide how much your time is worth and, if you guess wrong, are you prepared to go back in to replace the valve body.

This might be a dumb question but how do you know if your in limp mode, does it give you an engine code or something

 

[D725U]

This might be a dumb question but how do you know if your in limp mode, does it give you an engine code or something

Check engine light might go on in the OBD-II 1st gens and 2nd gens (it doesn't in the early 1st gens) but you will feel the car thud/buck into second when it goes into limp. Plus the speedometer won't go past 60 km/h and the tach will hover at 3000 rpm if you're going faster than 40 km/h.