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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys,

Here I am with the post which seems to be very popular. I've been doing some research but its like going up and down the hill. Sometimes problem looks rather simple then 5 minutes later its a nightmare so hopefully you guys can help me out.

I have 2003 intrepid 2.7L with 107000 miles, from what i know nothing has been done to a car. Few days ago transmission started acting up and if it went down to 1st gear it would just stay there until i restarted the engine.

Went to Auto Zone and 3 codes popped up:
P0700 (Transaxle control system fault)
P1776 (Solenoid switch valve latched in LR position) Explanation: The TCM has detected that the LR pressure is high)
-P0841 (Low/Reverse (LR) pressure switch rationality fault) Explanation: The TCm has detected a pressure switch open or closed at incorrect time

I know that there's a lot of info on the site but i just get lost with all the terminology so please help me figure this out. I want to know what would be the best thing to do right now to get my baby running again (selling car or taking to a mechanic is out of question... at least for now heh)

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Looks like some transmission work is in your near future!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Im thinking of changing solenoids and speed sensor if that doesn't help then the valve body. How hard or better yet how much time would it take me to do that?
 

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Easy job.

Raise the vehicle so you can get at the transmission. Remove the million bolts securing the transmission oil pan. Remove the filter. Remove the bolts securing the valve body and it will lower out. Solenoids and valve body will be at your complete disposal.

Good time for a fluid and filter swap.

Speed sensors are found on the drivers side of the transmission housing. Easy access.
 

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I had the same issue (P700) that also showed other codes.... swapped the speed sensors & was still there... took it to trans shop and had the solenoid pack changed along with fluid and filter (approx. $600 with taxes) and problem was fixed. that was 3-4 years ago...
 

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There is a TSB that decides if your tranny needs just the 'noids or a rebuilt valvebody (which includes the 'noids)

2002 Chrysler 300M Special V6-3.5L VIN G
A/T - MIL ON/DTC P1776 Set


A/T - MIL ON/DTC P1776 Set


NUMBER: 21-008-04 REV. A

GROUP: Transmission

DATE: October 16, 2004

THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 21-008-04, DATED JUNE 1, 2004. ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS** AND INCLUDE AN ADDITIONAL MODEL YEAR AND A UPDATED DISCUSSION.

SUBJECT:
MIL Illumination - DTC P1776 Solenoid Switch Valve Latched in LR Position

MODELS:

2004 (AN) Dakota

2004 - 2005 (CS) Pacifica

2003 - 2004 (JR) Sebring Convertible/Sebring Sedan/Stratus Sedan

2003 - 2004 (KJ) Liberty

2003 - 2004 (KJ) Cherokee (International Markets)

**2002** - 2004 (LH) 300M/Concorde/Intrepid

2003-2004 (PL) Neon/SX2.0

2003 - 2005 (PT) PT Cruiser

2003 - 2005 (RG) Chrysler Voyager (International Markets)

2003 - 2005 (RS) Town & Country/Voyager/Caravan

2003 - 2004 (TJ) Wrangler
NOTE :Refer to the following table for specific applications.

DISCUSSION:

If the vehicle operator describes a MIL illumination and the technician finds DTC P1776 Solenoid Switch Valve Latched in LR Position is set the DRBIII(R) can be used to access the event data screen and look at the "TRS Code" reading.

NOTE : The solenoid switch valve is not in the solenoid pack it is in the valve body.

TRS Code Reads TR2

If the TRS Code displays TR2 it is an indication that the manual valve was not fully in the OD position at the time the DTC was set. Check the shifter cable adjustment and adjust if necessary. Also check the shift control system for excessive friction and/or routing issues.

TRS Code Reads OD

If the "TRS Code displays "OD" then a sticky solenoid switch valve is the primary cause.

Perform the proper diagnosis for the valve body. Inspect for foreign material in the solenoid switch valve and plugs.

**FOR 2002 - 2004 LH MODEL ONLY**







**If replacing the valve body assembly for DTC P1776 Solenoid Switch Valve Latched in LR Position first inspect the build date on the solenoid pack (Fig. 1) or (Fig. 2). If the build date range falls in between 3001 and 0603 replace the solenoid pack not the valve body**

NOTE :The first three characters are the day of the year, the fourth character is the year, ie. 3001 is the 300th day of 2001.

POLICY:
Information Only

Disclaimer :This bulletin is supplied as technical information only and is not an authorization for repair.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hmmm there's so many things that can be done to either easy this problem or make it less expensive. Since i don't have much time I'll probably end up buying solenoids and valve body. Ill try just the solenoids first and if that doesn't help then install valve body. Does that sound right or i shouldn't even bother and put the whole thing?
Just to make sure though, transmission im looking for is 2G LH? (i have 2003 ES 2.7L)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Ohh I missed this part
"**If replacing the valve body assembly for DTC P1776 Solenoid Switch Valve Latched in LR Position first inspect the build date on the solenoid pack (Fig. 1) or (Fig. 2). If the build date range falls in between 3001 and 0603 replace the solenoid pack not the valve body**"
 

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Guess that means you need to dis-assemble it and then order parts as appropriate?

Or just buy a rebuilt Valve Body Assy. with the Solenoid Pack? Your choice!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
That would be ideal Ronbo but i live in brooklyn and dont have space to work on my car. Somehow i have to drive to my friends about an hr away, take it apart and hopefully fix it so that i can go back home.

Could you guys please tell me if this would work.Im confused though if this is just a valve body or one with solenoid pack:

Alternate/OEM Part Number(s): 4539766, TCS96, TKS14

Honestly I would rather buy a combo and call it a day
 

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Discussion Starter #14
thanks max, and that looks like the combo, the val body and noid pack right?

also, when flushing trans oil should i only replace it with the ATF 3+ or there are some other good ones?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
hey guys im back but with no results, i got sick so the whole operation had to be postponed; maybe for better because i have one more question.
So, i got my SP/VB combo and after looking up close is there supposed to be some kind of a seal or screen attached to the solenoid pack? or is it just sitting directly on a VB?
Also does VB need a seal? Im confused on that.

I bought oil filter from pepboys which comes with a rubber gasket, I also purchased RTV for transmission application but where exactly do i want to use it?

Please help guys, im trying to fix it tomorrow.
 

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no gasket on the valve body be careful there are 2 pistons and springs that will drop down with the valve body....when your looking at the solenoid you will the date stamped onto it (if I remember it's etched onto the plastic part), it also helps if you put the car in L1 this way the parking pawl will not give you a hard time...you will have to take the shifter cable lever off so the shaft will slip through the case, then all of the 11mm on the outside edges of the vb, once down you will be able to separate the solenoid (held on by t25 torx) ... I've never had to change a complete vb just the solenoid but make sure you check the date it matters...def wrong time of the year for this project but if you just jump at it you could be done in a 2 hr window (faster with air) good luck
 

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Discussion Starter #18
hi everyone,
i wanted to say mission is done and car runs like brand new, great thx to all who helped.

Im gonna give short reflection on what i went through and what no to do:
So on friday after work i drove from brooklyn to some place in NJ where my friends have a garage (about 25 mile distance). I got there around 8pm and at 9 i was already underneath the car unscrewing trans fluid pan. Having the pan only about 6in away from my face... well i definitely got my hair and skin well lubricated. While pan down Im killing some time making coffee and reading about next steps to allow oil to drip out (that actually turned out to keep going for another 15hrs). Next step, disconnecting electronic connector (has about 10 wires in it) so i found that then i found the red pin that prevents it from disconnecting ( flat screw driver does the job well) got the connector out time to disconnect transmission line. Its right above the elec connector and is attached to a metal rod (mechanism that changes gears you wont see it until you drop the VB down). Pretty hard to do due to limited space and access but small ratchet worked best for me. I knew from articles that your gear lever needs to be in certain position to unlock some mechanism inside to allow to fully remove VB, totally true... i tried in park position and it wouldnt go anywhere so i put the gear line back on that rod quickly threw gears into L position (someone from this site told me about it, sorry for not remembering who), removed the line and VB came out with no problems. Prior to that i forgot to mention unscrewing SP/VB about a million 10mm screws (just like someone in here said), main where really hard to undo but felt like same force was used. When taking VB down i knew about the 2 cylinders that like to fall out therefore i left it hanging on just 2 screws that way i could spot cylinders first (passenger side front bumper side). I undid the screw on cylinders side that allowed me to individually take them out and put into clean plastic container. By this time its already about 1;30am im covered with oil and definitely feeling tired and just trying to get this done. All my parts out, I take a quick look and compare my refurbished SP and VB to old setup and right away see difference. On the old setup there was screen between SP and VB while my package did not include it so i ended up using old one. NOW heres where i mess up big times for the first time, I forgot one of the biggest lessons from engineering school; PAY ATTENTION TO UNITS! . So you know how you have to use if i remember right 25 lbs-in to screw SP to the VB? well i bought torque wrench with lbs-ft :/ guess what happened. first screw... well i pulled it out with the threads from SP body. Definitely not something you wanna see especially if its past 2am and you know you dont have much time left. So im really mad thinking what to do, push the car down the river get a new part or simply use my creativity lol and fix it anyways. Yep last choice it was, i found concrete screw a bit larger than original that went in pretty tight. Its already past 3am just trying to put the new set in and call it a night; i go underneath the car and boom! another surprise, the rod from VB now doesnt want to go through the top opening. Im pissed give it a few tries and hits but nothing happens, call it a night.
9;30am im already by the car grinding off the top part of that rod because it looked like someone hit it really hard with the hammer on the edge( probably to take it out of an old car that it came from). put it back in and it goes through the opening this time so my job worked. Then i try to fully close the VB so i can start putting screws back i notice side where 2 cylinders where doesnt wanna fully close and its about 1/4 - 3/8in off. At this point im having enough, i give it couple more tries and stuff... no progress. So i go to plan B i take my old VB that just removed and screw back my new refurbished SP to it (thats right with that concrete blue screw). Everything goes in with no problems what so ever... except the 2 cylinders but it wasnt too dramatic (took about 3-4 tries all by myself). Once i got it in i put million screws back in tighten them with my hand :/ since i have wrong wrench. Looks good to me everything clean i felt like i used fairly similar force on each one of them. Installed new oil filter now time for trans oil pan, which was already cleaned by my brother, perfect! i apply RTV bought some special for transmissions and differentials apply to oil pan put the gasket on that came with filter, slightly move it around so glue sticks and spreads nicely to it. Do the same thing on top of the gasket and here we go, time to put it back on. While putting screws back on I noticed that 2 screws very different than others AAAAAND one of em also had messed up threat!!! no such big concrete screw around me this time LOL so i put some RTV on it shove it in there and pray again that everything works fine. I waited about 1.5hr before putting new oil MOPAR atf +4 (bought 3 gallons just in case for about $70). First i do 1.5gal in, connect the battery double check everything (forgot to mention before that after putting oil pan back on i connected elec. connector with red pin and gear lever line). lowered the car put the key in turned it AAANNNNDDD car runs, plug in my $50 code scanner and no codes come up. checked oil level with car running and nothing showed up on the stick so i keep adding until proper level. Once this was done i proceeded to see if my gears work. First time from park to rev nothing happens, put it back in park and down to rev again something clicks and car starts moving. I went through every position like that and everything worked perfectly. Test drove it with the engine already warm with no problems. I did have to add more oil though, my intrepid was so thirsty it drank approximately 10 quarts.

ADVICE to those who attempt to do this:
-I have never done anything on a car harder than replacing car battery changing air filter or spark plugs but I did this and so you can do it.
-be ready to get pretty dirty
- HAVE RIGHT TOOLS
-PAY ATTENTION TO UNITS
-spend extra few bucks on parts, just to be safe because Im sure you will not want to do this again
-PUT LOTS OF PROTECTION ON FLOORS
-and i think what helped me the most is thinking and understanding the purpose and way of working of parts i dealt with

Good luck to all! try not to use concrete screws because who knows how long its gonna last there. I already made about 400 miles in the city with no problems and no codes ohh and not a single drip of oil.
 

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good job Michal ...that's a pretty big job at my dealer I think it would cost in the ballpark of $400 labor so treat yourself...thanks for the follow up
 
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