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Discussion Starter #1
I tried to change the solenoid pack on my 2003 Dodge Intrepid, when I put it all together it didn't go into park (just rolls) or overdrive (can't physically more shifter). I read this thread here

[can't post links, but it says its thread 215416 and it was a post by STINGYA called "rolls in park after shift cable adjustment"]

and after a few months decided to take it apart again.

Before I even got it all the way out I found a problem, one of the accumulators was stuck. I got it out and somehow the seal had managed to break/bend and was prohibiting the accumulator from moving. that's an easy fix, I just to have find a place to buy a new seal. My question is, does that fix everything or do I still have a problem with my parking sprag like the guy in the linked thread had? Would a stuck accumulator prevent the car from going into park?

Any help is greatly appreciated. I have included a picture of the bad seal on the accumulator and a picture of the parking sprag installed (does it look right?).
 

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The accumulator won't have any effect on the park rod. Usually, I will roll these seals down around a 1/2 inch in diameter and let them spring back before installing them on the accumulators. Seems to make it easier to install them.

As for the park rod, you need to be removing the valve body in the fully clockwise position. That would be looking down from the top of the trans. If you tried this in any other position you could bend the rod or the eyelet the rod is clipped to.

One of these days, I'm going to take a picture of this and keep it handy.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So, I went back to this 2 months ago and I still could not get it to work. I got a new seal on the accumulator all good there I'm pretty sure. I'm going to try it again tomorrow night just wondering if anyone has any tips. I'm trying to put the sprag in the eyelit with the two teeth pointing up, but it just doesn't seem to make it in there...
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Take a look through this thread. I have some pictures in there about how the park rod should be positioned. The illustration you have shows the end of the park rod improperly positioned. It needs to be rotated 180 degrees and locked into the plate on the valve body housing before installation.
Mind = Blown

... So obviously I've done something wrong, because the sprag is bouncing around all willy nilly. I was trying my hardest to get it to go into it's home, while holding the accumulators and simultaneously lifting the valve body in place (not fun). Now I see you are latching it on to the VB before trying to lift it back into place, I had no idea I could latch it onto to the VB. That is Great! It appears you are indeed keeping the teeth on the sprag up, away from the VB. I think the illustration shows it right, it is just completely upside down, but that's not important because I think I get it now.

I'm going to attack this tonight and I'll post back with hopefully successful results. Thank You!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Sounds good! Any luck yet?
...Nope. Everything is bent. I never really noticed it before, but when actually attempted to put the sprag where it belongs I noticed it. I am sure I bent it when taking it out the first time I misinterpreted clockwise (or counter) on the top thing which releases the sprag in and attempted to remove it. That is all when I did it months ago.

Tonight after examining it and seeing just how bent it is I figured this Valve Body is pretty much toast now, but I decided to try it anyways. Everything fits in nice, way easier and less stress than before. Everything was great until I tried to engage the sprag I got 3 clicks and that's it, it will not go into park. I took it down to get a good look at it and the sprag went right where it belongs on the VB, but it will not engage. I am hoping that only the Valve Body is damaged and not internal parts. I have a replacement that I could borrow out of a dead Intrepid I have. I will probably be doing that in the next week or two.
 

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...Nope. Everything is bent. I never really noticed it before, but when actually attempted to put the sprag where it belongs I noticed it. I am sure I bent it when taking it out the first time I misinterpreted clockwise (or counter) on the top thing which releases the sprag in and attempted to remove it. That is all when I did it months ago.

Tonight after examining it and seeing just how bent it is I figured this Valve Body is pretty much toast now, but I decided to try it anyways. Everything fits in nice, way easier and less stress than before. Everything was great until I tried to engage the sprag I got 3 clicks and that's it, it will not go into park. I took it down to get a good look at it and the sprag went right where it belongs on the VB, but it will not engage. I am hoping that only the Valve Body is damaged and not internal parts. I have a replacement that I could borrow out of a dead Intrepid I have. I will probably be doing that in the next week or two.
I'm wondering just how much is bent, (Like you said). But, if you have a junker for parts, that is awesome!
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I'm wondering just how much is bent, (Like you said). But, if you have a junker for parts, that is awesome!
So, I decided to just get this done. Pulled the valve body from junker (which was in great condition) and popped it in the other one. Engaged the parking sprag, dropped the car and pushed to see if it was in park and it appears to be. Got the pan on poured some ATF in... It turns over, but won't start.

I think it has been off for 3-5 months. I'm assuming this new problem is fuel related.

Starting to get tired of this car...
 

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Stay with it!

Go over your connections, make sure you didn't dislodge something there with the transmission being messed with that much.

Then - can you describe how it isn't starting? Have you checked fuel pressure by just pressing on the test port valve with a small screwdriver (keep a rag handy to block the spray).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
No I didn't. I'm done with it for today. I charged the battery last night, so when I went to go turn it on today the alarm was goin off. I decided to pull the alarm, but then it wouldn't turn over. Plugged it back in and found the kill switch, now it turns but wont start. That's where I left it, just like in my other post.
 

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Take a quick inventory of the basics. Fuel in the tank, pressure at the rail, (60psi +/-) and if you have a way to test light the terminals at the injectors. Just to be sure the kill switch isn't still killing when it shouldn't be.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
So, I decided to blow some starter fluid in the intake just to see what happens and it starts... But it does not like the gas that is in there and it wont stay running. As a matter of fact it seemed to die if I pressed on the accelerator. I'm assuming I have bad gas in there, is that a fair assumption? It ran for about a minute and I have a hard time believing that was purely on 3 seconds of starter fluid.

If I am right, what should I do now? It has about a 1/4 of a tank according to the gauge. My gut tells me the right thing to do is drain the tank and put 91 octane in there. If that's the case how I do that? I know they have some vehicles have anti-siphoning devices installed in the fuel neck, is this one of them? Is there some magical fuel drain/siphoning plug??? Or, do I have to drop the tank and pour it out? Or do I add 3/4 of a tank of 91 octane gas and cross my fingers? Oh and there is also that Stab-ill stuff...

Or am I wrong and is fuel pump bad or disconnected/choked (I swear I can hear it), fuel filter clogged, or something else?

I have not tested the fuel pressure yet, as I'm not so sure how to do that or if I have the correct tools. Also where is the fuel pressure test port, at the very least I can do the screwdriver thing you mentioned. I am sure it is something simple like a capped of thing near the fuel rod, I just get a little extra cautious when I haven't done something before.
 

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A second gen person is going to have to tell you where the fuel pressure test port is - but yes, it will be up on the fuel rail somewhere.

I wouldn't worry about putting 91 octane in it - put in it what it is supposed to burn - but do your car a favor and DO NOT run ethanol in it - especially for this next tank full, if you can at all get away from Ethanol. Run 87 or 89, just fine ethanol free.

I personally would drain the fuel tank by popping off the fuel line at the engine and aim it at a bucket. Then cycling the key till the tank is drained or really low.

Another think you can try is to take a hammer and hit the center of the fuel tank, straight up into the bottom of it, VERY hard. You might have to jack the car up to get enough swing - this often times will free up a stuck fuel pump to the point of letting you start the car - it will work for anywhere from 30 seconds to 30 days by doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
A second gen person is going to have to tell you where the fuel pressure test port is - but yes, it will be up on the fuel rail somewhere.
That's what I figured, but thank you. I've changed the rails before... I've just never touch the test port (I get weird when I haven't done something).

I wouldn't worry about putting 91 octane in it - put in it what it is supposed to burn - but do your car a favor and DO NOT run ethanol in it - especially for this next tank full, if you can at all get away from Ethanol. Run 87 or 89, just fine ethanol free.
You mean the E85 stuff? From what I have heard only certain cars take it and if you put it in one that doesn't it can do big time damage, as I buy all my cars used I have never thought it worth the risk. Not to mention in most cases it is just as expensive because it is less fuel efficient. My reference to 91 was simply because I have always been told if your car is running rough a tank full of 91 will clean it out.

I personally would drain the fuel tank by popping off the fuel line at the engine and aim it at a bucket. Then cycling the key till the tank is drained or really low.
Kind of banging my head on this one (why didn't I think of that)... This would not only get what I truly believe is old fuel out, but would also prove to me that my fuel pump is as fit as a fiddle. Wasting a 1/4 tank of old crummy gas isn't going to kill me, but it might kill the car. This idea get's me so excited I want to go work on it right now.
 

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Nonononono I mean ANY ethanol fuel - yes, E85 will not be kind to your car - and will be an issue if you use it - but I mean E10 - the stuff that is 10% ethanol and has been running in most cars since the mid 90s... If you can fine a pump that does NOT have ANY ethanol ( E0 ) that would be the BEST. Water will precipitate out of E10 Ethanol fuel (any ethanol fuel!) and will settle to the bottom of the tank where the fuel pump is, and will cause issues.

Drain your tank, and run PURE gasoline through it, no ethanol at all, for this tank at least.. I personally recommend that for every tank, but many people won't go for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
decided to give it a try. Disconnected it at the green tab quick disconnect, anddd.... Nothing, no fuel pumping out... Fuel pump investigation time...
 

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I might have not followed the conversation, but I'd place a block of wood on the tank before smacking the tank with a hammer. :baseballbat: Or use a rubber mallet.
 
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