DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Last summer I got a full set of black leather front and rear seats out of a 99 300m.
I finally decided to start the install.
Since the seats were in a car with no windows rain and a little mud were on them, so I had to carefully clean them.
I used a steam cleaner to blow off the mud and a ton of paper tows to wipe them down.
Then I used leather cleaners and wipes to make them look new again.
These seats were a good find last year.
I got them for $300, and I could tell they were in good shape(no tears, cracks, etc.)
All they needed was cleaning.
Yesterday I installed the rear seats in my 98 cord.
Plug and play.
Now with the cord's huge trunk space, combined with the 300m fully fold down seats, I now can haul a lot in my trunk.:)

Today I first brought my car to the dealership for the drivers side recliner seatbolt and shifter interlock recall updates first, with my old front seats in(I wanted this doen before I installed the 300m front seats).
This took three hours at the dealership, so I only had about 4 hours of the day left.
It took about 3 hours to clean the front seats, and less than an hour to install.
I found the 2 prong power plug on the passenger side.
So I was able to power both sides up, and even have the memory with only connecting up the power plugs. Plug and play!
It was getting cold out, and rain was predicted(my new place doesn't have a garage, so this was done outside) so I decided that the rest of the wiring will have to wait for a warm day.

The front seats work just fine, but the motors seam to have a bit of trouble moving the seats.
Since the seats were sitting for a couple of years the underside of the power seats are a bit rusted, and I am afraid that if I don't lube them the motors may burn out.
So I need to also lube up the moving mechinizims so they move better and don't wear out the motors because of rust.
Any advice here on what type of grease I should use to lube the power seat moviing parts up with?

All I need to do now to complete the wiring is run the 7 common wires from the passenger side to the drivers side big white plug, and run the violet/yellow pci bus wire to where the otis plugs in, and find the 10 fused wire to splice into for the 2 heat control wires. I am thinking of running those 2 wires through the bottom of the driver's door side to the fuse block.
What do you think?
Or should I run them through the console and up around under the dash?

I also installed the 300m leather shift knob.
All I need now to complete the package is a black leather center console.
But my car is looking good on the inside now!
I'll take some pictures for you guys tomarrow.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,971 Posts
98concorde2.7L said:
...The front seats work just fine, but the motors seam to have a bit of trouble moving the seats.
Since the seats were sitting for a couple of years the underside of the power seats are a bit rusted, and I am afraid that if I don't lube them the motors may burn out.
So I need to also lube up the moving mechinizims so they move better and don't wear out the motors because of rust.
Any advice here on what type of grease I should use to lube the power seat moviing parts up with?
...
Sounds like you've been having fun!

A couple of years ago, I bought a spray can of lithium grease (STP brand - there may be other brands) - they've mixed real lithium grease in with an evaporating fluid - so you spray it in, the liquid evaporates, and you're left with a nice coating of lithium grease. It is absolutely the best lube I have used for spraying into things (comes with the typical red plastic straw to get near and into things). Lithium grease is good stuff, and has staying power (not at all like WD-40). It is white and tends to stay clean looking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,461 Posts
Did the same in my 94 es intrepid put a LHS black leather interior plug and play both sides power.Payed $400 for 4 seats 4 lhs wheels and a auto air controller.Junk yard just got it in so i figure that is what he payed for it. Trep looks real good with lhs wheels!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Pretty much any brand of white lithium grease will work to lube the screws on the power seat tracks, I'm pretty sure that's what they use at the factory....it's thick and it doesn't break down too much over time, but if the seat bottom is rusted, I would suggest doing a little work with some PB B'laster and a small wire brush....clean the rust from the drive screws before you lube them up. The gear that travels along the screws to move the seat is a soft white plastic, and gets damaged pretty easily so exercise care while employing your wire brush. I recently swapped out the power seat tracks for both of my front seats, and by cannabalizing the two old seat tracks I was able to make one fully functional spare, you may want to do the same just in case one ends up crapping out on you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks guys that's what I used.
What I did was call a dealership and ask what to use.
They said to lube lithium grease, and for the rust pyb blaster.
I couldn't get pyb blaster so I got wd-40 instead.


Today I removed the front seats , wire brushed the rusted areas, sprayed the non moving rusted areas down with this stuff that turns rust to primer, and the painted those areas black.
I then WD-40d everything and then lubed it up with the lithium grease.

I then made a wire harness from passenger side to drivers side for the 7 common wires, and from the drivers side a 2 wire harness up through the console around the steering column area and over to the left side of the fuse box where I was able to tap into the otis connector for the violet/yellow and dark blue/white wires.
As I had to remove the center console anyway to run the harness from the passenger side to the drivers, I thought I would see if I could find a black 300m console from a local junkyard, so that everythign would match.
I was in luck:
I was able to get a whole 300m black center console(not leather) for $50(that 300m also has a full set of charcoal black seats in very good condition, and some more goodies I may go back to look over).
I couldn't put the 300m black piece in that gos to the dash, since it would require cutting out a part of my dash, and I didn't want to do that.
The gray to black contrast though where it meets looks good though.
I also had a hard time lifting the carpet to run the harness from passenger to drivers side, so, for now, it's on top of the carpet and runs under the console over.
It's hidden so you can't see it unless you really look.
I also have a spare black shifter part from the 300m.
I don't know if I will use that, since my woodgrain one from my corde looks better, plus I would need the matching heater head/Radio bezel too from the 300m. But I may, later, see if I can put the black piece that gos to the dash in.
But right now that contrast kind of looks good, and at least I have a black console to match the front seats.
I guess leather lids didn't come standard in the 300ms.
Maybe I'll see about making my own leather lid from my spare one I now have.
I also want to put leather on my rear window shelf later too.
But, for now, my interoir seams to match pretty good and looks good.
My car origionally had shades of gray inside, and tan on my interior roof.

Well, everything of the 300m seat package is now installed , and it all works, including heat now!
Pictures soon to come...

Edit: While I was testing out the passenger side recliner part on the 300m seat, I heard a pop and it now doesn't recline!
Can I fix this with parts from my old powered drivers side seat parts from my corde?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,971 Posts
It was fine for your needs on the seats, but for future reference, do not confuse WD-40 with penetrating oil. It is not. When you need a penetrating oil (for getting rusted hardware loose, etc.), you need a true penetrating oil, of which PB Blaster is an excellent one.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
peva said:
It was fine for your needs on the seats, but for future reference, do not confuse WD-40 with penetrating oil. It is not. When you need a penetrating oil (for getting rusted hardware loose, etc.), you need a true penetrating oil, of which PB Blaster is an excellent one.
OK, thanks.
So basically wd-40 is basically a lubercating oil, but pb blaster is a penetrating oil.

OK guys, here's the pics for you!

Front seats, black 300m center console, leather shift knob(it's hard to tell the contrast from black to gray on the console, since it was bright out and I didn't adjust the camera to get the true blacks, sorry, but that contrast looks really good where the 300m black console parts meet the gray corde's):


300m rear seats up:


Rear seats down( look at how this extends the already huge trunk space of the corde)!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Hey congrats on the awesome interior. I just put mine in also and paid the exact same price for my set, and i couldnt be happier. Awesome install

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Tomci08 said:
Hey congrats on the awesome interior. I just put mine in also and paid the exact same price for my set, and i couldnt be happier. Awesome install

Tom
Congradulations to you too.
Did you do the console too like me or was yours already black?
I now want the leather console lid.
What I will do for that is find some matching leather somewhere and cover my spare lid myself.
This is a good indoor winter project.
It's getting cold here now in Wisconsin, so this is about it with the car for the winter. I don't have a garage, so I ca only do so much outside.
But those seats were sitting for over a year.
The main reason I didn't install them sooner was that I told myself:"No seats until you get the body fixed"
I have been driving my car around for over a year with a damaged body , and what good is it for a nice interoir if the body looks crapy.
Well...Next week I have a body man that will do my car body for cheap, so now was the time for the seat install too. Those heated seats will be great for the cold weather here now too!
See:
I have owned this car since 2000. When I bought this car it was only 2 years old and only had 26000 miles on it. I am still paying on it, but only have 7 payments to go! I origionally paid $22000 for it, but by the time I get doen paying on it I will have paid over $36000! But, since I keep it in good shape, and have a new engine, and low mileage, I hope to have it for a few years yet.

At the time I bought this car I saw a 99 300m, but the loan company wouldn't finance that one for me, so I asked the saleman to look out for a simular car that I could.
Well, 1 week later the dealer called me and told me he had this concorde, So I bought it.
I am glad I now have the concorde(love the trunk space), but have been desiring the 300m features, espescailly the memory seat.. I actually wanted the 300m, and loved the memory seat. Well, now I have that, and a trunk space that is very large now with the fold down seats!

I may order a rear spoiler from spoiler.com next month though, and pick a warm day to install that..
I want the 3 piece spoiler they have for the corde.
Then it's window tinting, and that's about it until spring.
Then it's atempting the ATC again(I won't give up on this either), and an rb1 navigation system.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
98concorde2.7L said:
While I was testing out the passenger side recliner part on the 300m seat, I heard a pop and it now doesn't recline!
Can I fix this with parts from my old powered drivers side seat parts from my corde?
You should be able to fix it by simply swapping parts from the old power seat track......take out your passenger seat, it should be pretty obvious what the problem is just by fidgeting around under the seat, then transplant the parts you need from your old seats. Good Luck!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
16,971 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
348 Posts
Thanks man, my interior was already black to begin with but i am definately in the search for a leather console cover and steering wheel. I just need to have the heat hooked up too since i dont know how to do that.

Tom
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
98concorde2.7L said:
I then made a wire harness from passenger side to drivers side for the 7 common wires, and from the drivers side a 2 wire harness up through the console around the steering column area and over to the left side of the fuse box where I was able to tap into the otis connector for the violet/yellow and dark blue/white wires.

All you did was tap into the otis connector for the two heat wires???

That sounds easier the crawling way up under the dash as I've read in other posts......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Wretched said:
All you did was tap into the otis connector for the two heat wires???

That sounds easier the crawling way up under the dash as I've read in other posts......
Yes.
Since the otis uses the same PCI bus wire(Violet/Yellow) and also used the same 10a fused wire(Dark Blue/White),Or at least mine does(I also have a dimming rear view mirror wired up, and my Dark Blue/White maybe from that, but it does use the same connector on the fuse block that the otis uses, if you want that pinout location if yours doesn't have it, let me know) and the colors matched, it was easier to just splice into the otis connecter wires on the left side of the fuse block.
You will still need to run the wires under the dash from the conlsole to hide them, but as long as you have an otis(you may also need to have the dimming mirror for the fused 10A), you should have those wires to tap into there, on the left side of the fuse block, instead of trying to find them elsewhere under the dash.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,501 Posts
I was going to 'chirp in' with the white lithium grease (as used at OEM ass'y) but I see the good membership here has beat me to it.
There is a product called "Door-Ease" that is a White-lith. spray w/tube. Sounds like that's what you used. I know dealers have been using it for some time now to quiet hinges/checkers and reduce efforts. The same is used for door latches, hood/decklid hinges, seat sliders and power sun-roof rails. Clean up excess where you can as it's a dust magnet.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
CDN R/T said:
I was going to 'chirp in' with the white lithium grease (as used at OEM ass'y) but I see the good membership here has beat me to it.
There is a product called "Door-Ease" that is a White-lith. spray w/tube. Sounds like that's what you used. I know dealers have been using it for some time now to quiet hinges/checkers and reduce efforts. The same is used for door latches, hood/decklid hinges, seat sliders and power sun-roof rails. Clean up excess where you can as it's a dust magnet.
Thanks.
I actually found out about it by calling the dealership. But then after I had fiished I read the advice here about it too, so thanks guys for the advice.
That "Break Free" used for guns was also great stuff for unsticking my rear seat headrests(one was stuck in the up position and one the down, I sprayed "Break Free", used for guns, into the posts, wiggled the head rests, and walha, they also work now). Yes that white lithium spray is nice.
It's clean, non smelling(unlike the wd-40 order I have been trying to get out of my car the last couple of days). Won't freeze, etc. I'll keep it on hand for lubing up various things on the car, like door hinges etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
290 Posts
Thanks! I have put an EVIC in, so I have added those wires to the otis plug already, before it just held the wires for the courtesy lights. This will save some agrivation for sure when I get around to doing this!
Adam


98concorde2.7L said:
Yes.
Since the otis uses the same PCI bus wire(Violet/Yellow) and also used the same 10a fused wire(Dark Blue/White),Or at least mine does(I also have a dimming rear view mirror wired up, and my Dark Blue/White maybe from that, but it does use the same connector on the fuse block that the otis uses, if you want that pinout location if yours doesn't have it, let me know) and the colors matched, it was easier to just splice into the otis connecter wires on the left side of the fuse block.
You will still need to run the wires under the dash from the conlsole to hide them, but as long as you have an otis(you may also need to have the dimming mirror for the fused 10A), you should have those wires to tap into there, on the left side of the fuse block, instead of trying to find them elsewhere under the dash.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
231 Posts
Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
Wretched said:
Thanks! I have put an EVIC in, so I have added those wires to the otis plug already, before it just held the wires for the courtesy lights. This will save some agrivation for sure when I get around to doing this!
Adam
Great!
I am glad that my easier way has helped others too.
I like to make things simple if I can.
I already knew the otis(evic too) use the pci bus wire(Violet/Yellow) to communicate with the bcm.
So that I had planned to splice into.
I als remembered a dark blue/white wire going up to the otis too(10a fused), so I looked for that one, and it was also there.
This makes it all pretty much plug and play.
First you look under the driver's side and passenger side carpets for the power wires for the seats(mine was Solid red and solid black wires), and if you are lucky you have the connectors left intact on the 300m seats to just plug into for power and memory. For the rest you need to make the harnesses and connect the rest of the wires.
The hardest part is measuring what length of wire you need from passenger to drivers(use 16 gauge), for the remaining 7 common wires from passenger side to driver's side, and what length for the 2 wires(18-22 gauge will work) from the drivers seat under console up around under dash to fuse block left side to splice into the otis/evic connector wires.
I also like to make my own harnesses:
I solder all connections, wrap all wires in tape, and make it look professional.
Once your harnesses are made, it's plug and play!

Note: Don't forget to disconnect your battery when splicing into wires, espescially the pci and 10a fused wires, or you may fry your bcm! This is just a precaution for those that are reading this thread. I am sure you already know this.
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top