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Discussion Starter #1
Hey, all. Maybe a month ago I heard some terrible noise from the engine. When was able to check it out in daylight, I could see the belts were shredding. I took them off and started the car. No noise. I replaced them, tightened everything and started the car.The noise returned and I saw smoke.

I turned it off and saw that the A/C belt was rubbing flush against the block and the main belt started coming off the pulleys.I looked at the pulleys for the main belt and can see that the biggest pulley is misaligned with the other pulleys. It's as if the biggest pulley has recessed into the block a bit.

Any ideas?
 

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Which pulley are you describing? There's two adjustable pulley's: one for the A/C compressor (lower passenger side) and another on the middle driver's side for the Alternator & power steering.

Which belt is it?
 

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That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.
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Sounds like he's suggesting the crank pulley is not lining up?

It's possible the crank pulley has failed - it has that flexible component; perhaps the outer part has shifted inwards toward the block? It would probably be rubbing the timing cover (or be real close) if so.
 

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Sounds like he's suggesting the crank pulley is not lining up?

It's possible the crank pulley has failed - it has that flexible component; perhaps the outer part has shifted inwards toward the block? It would probably be rubbing the timing cover (or be real close) if so.
Yep! Sounds like the crankshaft damper has crapped out. Time for a new one.

Case #1 I picked up an Intrepid for this dirt cheap. The guy was convinced the engine was shot and wanted to unload it for cheap. I put a new damper on and all was peachy!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yep! Sounds like the crankshaft damper has crapped out. Time for a new one.

Case #1 I picked up an Intrepid for this dirt cheap. The guy was convinced the engine was shot and wanted to unload it for cheap. I put a new damper on and all was peachy!
Thanks. Any pictures or how-to on changing that out?
 

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Thanks. Any pictures or how-to on changing that out?
There are probably several threads around that address the R+R of a damper pulley. First of which you need to verify that's your problem. Does the damper on yours wobble a lot when running?

Also, you'll need a harmonic balancer puller with three jaws. Harmonic balancer is another name for the crankshaft damper pulley. The ones with bolt holes will not work with our engines.

And, you'll need to find a replacement to put back on there. I am sure there are several aftermarket brands available but, I haven't bought one ever. Perhaps some of the members who have bought before can recommend one that will fit the best. You'll need to post your engine size to get the right one.
 

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Just wanted to add that there is a puller, different from the one in the FSM, that you can use and not have to pull the radiator.
Yeah...I got a loaner from Advance Auto when I did the TB/WP. Have to ask for the "Dodge/Chrysler" puller. It comes with a shorter bolt that can fit without pulling the radiator.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I got it off pretty easily. The rubber seal is halfway gone. Do I beat the new one on with a rubber mallet? Or do I use the puller to put it on? Or is there some other tool I need to rent? Thanks.
 

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Capscrew for pulling on crankshaft pulley - 12 x 1.75 x 80 mm (a 70 or 75 mm length may also work)
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Thnks for the response but I'm a noob and don't know what you mean. Do I use the puller or a different tool?
 

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Buy a longer capscrew like this:
12mm x 1.75mm x 80mm *
and use its greater length to pull the pulley onto the nose of the crank. When you can get three threads of the original capscrew in the crank, then finish with that.

Don't tighten the longer capscrew too far. You only need it for the first 1/2 to 3/4 inch or so. Going too far with it will cause the capscrew's shank to damage the crankshaft threads.

* I'm not endorsing this vendor, but they do have a good image.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK got it. Use the puller to install but get a longer capscrew. Makes sense because the crank's not on far enough for the OG screw's threads to catch. Thanks!
 

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No. The puller stays in its box for the install. The longer capscrew temporarily replaces the standard carnk capscrew just until the pulley install can be finished with the original capscrew.
 

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When I changed mine, none of the bolts that came with the installation kit I borrowed fit, and so I was forced to use the original bolt for the re-install, and it worked just fine. Although, I am sure you are better off with a longer one, as you are pulling it on with very few threads at first I do believe. It helps to slather everything in motor oil to ease the installation.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I bought a longer screw, then had to use a couple of metal standoffs and washers to make contact with the screw's head. Got it on and now I'm rollin' (just gotta screw down the part that covers the radiator and includes the hood latch). Thanks all!
 
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