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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The offending vehicle is a 2002 dodge intrepid 2.7L
i hope the link works but it's a video showing the center mount on the rack where i feel the knock being the strongest and all i do is wiggle the steering wheel side to side 6-12 inches with the engine off. if the engine is on its really hard to get it to replicate the sound i hear. i found this is the only way to replicate the exact sound i hear while driving the car. it only happens during turning and can get quite loud. depending on how aggressive i am driving.
whenever i research knocking/popping in rack and pinions nothing comes up online. it always points to other parts.
The history before i found this way to replicate the sound was i thought since it was only on turns is when i heard it, it had to be the cv axles so i replaced them with Detroit axle brand cv axles, and found that changed nothing. so i did a shake down and found the inner tie rod (that damn thing always goes out every year) was bad the crimp had lots of slop. so i replaced that today. the ball joints and other tie rods and bushing were all tight. then i wiggled the steering wheel and noticed the sound. I got my wife to assist so i could search for it and found the center mount is where its coming from. both inner tie rods are good and torqued to 74ft lbs per my haynes manual. i retorqued the rack and pinion mounts to ensure that wasn't a cuprit they were good.

Can the tie rod mounting bolts go bad yet show no movement? i didn't see any obvious signs of wear on them when i swapped the inner tie rod today and the bushings were in great shape.

i am sick of throwing money at this aimlessly. so i am hoping for a way to be sure before throwing hundreds down on a rack.
if the link don't work let me know so i can try to get the video out.
Meet Google Drive – One place for all your files
 

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Your link takes me to G Drive for me to request access to your file by using my gmail account, but I never get an email.

Not sure what you mean by center rack mount. There's a mount on each end of the rack - each mount with 2 bushings. No center rack mount.

When you replaced the inner tie rods, did you only have one of the bolts out at a time so the sleeve inside the rubber bellows didn't get out of place as you re-assembled?

Is the popping you hear occurring as you turn the steering wheel in one direction thru a turn? If so, it may be a bad strut mount bearing.

Sorry for all the questions. So far not enough info. Can you post your video to you tube?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
20211216_011942.mp4

i talking the point where the inner tie rods mount up to the rack. if the strut bearing was the issue i have read it sounds like its coming from a high point like thru the windshield this is definitely not.
the inner mount is lined up i never remove both bolt at the same time always replace 1 tie rod then the other.
any idea how to share an MP4?
i am trying drop box it says anyone with the link can see it. so i am hoping this works.
 

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I saw it via Dropbox.

Can't tell if the noise is from the inner tie rod connections - didn't notice any lost motion at reversal of steering wheel. Check for play/lost motion at both rack mounts and at steering column shaft-to-rack input shaft coupling. One of the rack mounts (IIRC, the one in the driver's side end) is fixed position longitudinally, the one on the other end freely slips longitudinally. Whichever one does not slip may be making the noise if its bushings are shot.

I'd be interested if even with everything was good if you'd get that noise - as in, you're not going to be reversing direction of steering input that hard and that rapidly in normal driving. Just asking the question.

It's going to be hard for us to see in the video what you're seeing in person. If the inner tie rod bolts are torqued, but the noise is coming from that area, perhaps the rack is bad. I can't say one way or the other.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
do you know of any way to test the rack?
i already checked the steering column and intermediate link are all tight and the feeling of the knock is not as pronounced at the ends as it at the center.
when i test it later tonight i can record another video to show the sound when driving.
as far as the rack the mounts are all tight and no motion can be detected.
sorry about the piss poor view that area does suck to video.
i checked torque on the rack mounts last night bolts didn't move.
the inner tie rod was replaced earlier today. so both were torqued at the completion of that.

the block the is in the bellows on the rack itself can that wear and get a slipping side to side? or should the torqued bolt prevent that from slipping?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
here's some more video's
video 1
video 2
video 3
video 4

on one of the videos you can hear the real loud pop with a rattle like something popped then bounced.
all videos the vehicle was stationary and just turning side to side.
the pop can be felt on the floor but sounds like its in the middle of the dash.
 

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The inner sleeve gets locked tight when the bolts are torqued.

Other than having to replace the inner tie rod bushings a couple of times on my two Concordes, I was fortunate to never have any problems with the racks, so I'm not very helpful on troubleshooting them.

I believe your loud pop and rattle was in the 2nd video? When you get that while smoothly turning the steering wheel (without reversal), that to me says a strut bearing is binding - the steering wheel rotates the knuckles and strut bodies, but one of the strut bearings momentarily binds, which winds up the coil spring a small amount in torsion, then the bearing suddenly breaks loose from the buildup of torsion, and the spring suddenly unwinds, giving you the pop. Does that fit at all with what you're observing?

It's hard to diagnose with any certainty from a distance.

Hopefully someone can give you some second opinions and ideas on determining if your rack has a problem.

If you're hearing a take-up of play when you rock the steering wheel back and forth, you just have to closely observe each joint in the steering column and rack, which it already sounds like you've been doing. I know on one of my Concordes, there's a blue universal joint in the column close to the steering wheel (you have to remove the top column cover to see the blue joint) that was making an annoying little noise as play was taken up when steering wheel motion reversed. I replaced the entire steering column and the noise went away - for a couple of years, then came back - same joint. I concluded that it is unavoidable wear. I diagnosed that by being able to duplicate the noise by locking the column intermediate shaft with a pair of vice grips (isolating any motion from downstream joints and mounts), and rocking the steering wheel back and forth. That's the kind if stuff you have to do sometimes to pinpoint some of these things.
 
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