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It's normal for the rack to make a knock-knock sound when the engine is off (my 94 does the same thing) since there's no power steering fluid being fed to the rack. It shouldn't happen when the engine is running and fluid is being pumped into the system.
 

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I also can't figure out why my driver side tire is loose.
Since you've ruled out that your wheel bearing is OK there might be damage/play in the steering knuckle. I'm guessing where the lower ball joint from the control arm attaches.

Curious - Do you have an aftermarket steering rack or is still factory original?
 

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This is interesting though because I'm wondering if there could be wear in the outer tie rod part of the knuckle.
Whoever did the job may have damaged the threads on the knuckle when they secured the suspension and steering components. A dealer mechanic (or sloppy indy mechanic) probably over-torqued something with an impact wrench instead of using a torque wrench.
 

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I'm talking about where the lower control arm connects to the steering knuckle. The thread may have been damaged by over-torquing with an impact wrench.

As for the outer tie-rod, you mentioned that the alignment nut may have come loose. Double-check that it is secured and torqued to spec.

I'm wondering, since you've replaced your inner tie-rod bushings as well, what type of head bolts are you using? 15mm or 22mm? There have been reports where the 15mm bolts do not properly secure the locking tabs to the bolts and the bolts tend to back out in extreme cases. Also make sure that your inner tie-rod bolts are torqued to the revised 74 ft-lbs spec.
 

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Internal to the rack...
Well of course the knocking sound would be internal to the rack. In my experience, the rack has always made a slight knocking sound with the engine off. Even my original factory rack made a sound if the wheel was rocked back and forth without the engine on. I recently went to a U-Pull-It to replace the factory steering column shroud on my 94 with a 2nd gen unit - and that rack also made that knocking sound when the wheel was rocked.

Way back when, when I serviced my car at Chrysler, I was told by some techs that this is due to the steering pump being shut off and not sending fluid to the rack. Whether that's a BS explanation or not is up for discussion, but every LH sedan I've encountered - new, used, wrecked, etc. - has always made that sound with no power on.
What you may mean is that the smooth bore of the knuckle hole could be worn
This. I had some damaged threads on my own steering knuckles a few years back where the caliper bolts attached. I tried to salvage the knuckle with a helicoli kit, but the brake pedal would sometimes get spongy, so I replaced both knuckles with a used set from a wrecked Intrepid. Been great ever since. I've also read that the second gen knuckles are compatible on first gen cars.
So grabbed a pair today, changed them out tonight and the play is gone.
Great. I personally recommend the Moog Problem-Solver with zerk fittings. Better than the original factory sealed units.
 

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Granted a lot of Moog is now made in china now
Some Moog parts are also made in India, too (in my case, it was the coil spring isolators). But generally the Problem-Solver stuff is still made in the States. My Moog outer-tie rods are 4 years old and still OK. They just need to be greased at every oil change, sometimes a bit sooner.
 
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