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I'm looking at buying a 2002 Dodge Intrepid with a 2.7L engine. The car is in great share but has 140,000 miles on it. What scares me is all the talk in this forum about the 2.7L engines blowing up because of slug or timing belt issues.

Do you think this car has bypassed these issues because of it's mileage? I would have though reading these posts that it would have never made it this far or is it just an accident waiting to happen for me?

If I do decide to puchase the car is there anything I can do to prevent the engine from failing? How hard is it to change the timing belt on them?

Thanks,

Howard
 

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That rhythm is INFECTIOUS.
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Glad to see you doing your research prior to pulling the trigger on a purchase!

Yes - these 2.7's are known to grenade themselves if not properly maintained. If it has made it to 140K, odds are it has been maintained - which is a good thing!

It has a timing chain, not a belt. The chain, guides and water pump are the critical components on this motor. Changing these things is a little more involved than pulling the timing cover off, but can be done if you're handy with tools.

Change the oil often, use a good filter!

I'm sure some of the other members will chime in with more specific suggestions.

Welcome!
 

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yippee ki yay
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welcome aboard fellow 2.7er.......main thing with these motors is MAINTENANCE

You want to use good oil...i run mobile 1 in all my 2.7's and most important if the waterpump hasn't been changed....then change it soon. Anything else let us know.

Below is my 2.7 video collection
http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/showthread.php?p=1719443#poststop
 

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I would keep looking. I wouldn't take a chance on ANY 2.7L.
 

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If I'm to understand correctly, what happens is that the seal between the water pump and the crank case fails, leaking water into the oil and vice versa. When the water mixes with the oil, it crates "sludge", which collects in various places. One of the first places to get gummed up is an oil passage that goes to the timing chain, leading to the timing chain being poorly lubricated. This causes it to break, which will typically destroy the valves and possibly the rest of the head as well.

Hence, use a really good filter and oil to help fight any existing sludge, and change the water pump to prevent any more from forming.

From what I've picked up, the easiest way to tell if there's a problem is that the heater won't blow hot air when the car is idling/not moving, and you'll possibly be able to hear the water pump making noise.

My Fiancee's Sebring has both symptoms...that thing is going to be an [expletive] to change out, I fear. :(
 

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Woober Goobers!
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If you don't know the person that has had the car since day one off the lot and don't have maintenance records detailing when it's been serviced...I'd run away and fast.
 

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Wouldn't there be signs of colant in the oil and low coolant level as well?
 

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I'm @ 127,000 miles on my 2000 Trep and so far so good. I've had it for 8 months and am switching over to a full synthetic (either German Castrol 0-30w Syntec or Royal Purple 5-30w) with a higher end filter. I had been running Penzoil HighMileage, but figure a $50 oil change and longer oil change interval will be worth it for longevity sake.
 
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