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Discussion Starter #1
Been collecting various bits and pieces for upgrades and this weekend will be going into overdrive! Like a tazmanian devil on crack I've torn out the back seats, rear deck covering, "A","B" and "C" post trim, and most of the stuff holding up the headliner.

While I had the rear seats out I decided to see about doing something to try to improve how quiet the car is. So now I've got "Q" Pads to insulate the flooring, (Want Crypt-like quiet)

So this weekend will be the OTIS install, lighted keyring install and oh yeah did I mention the leather seats?! Yup. One hell of a deal. Full set from 99 LHS (will need a bit of mod for bolt in patterns but worth it.) When I say "hell of a deal" I mean $65 for the entire set!! :sohappy: I've also got a set of Rockford Fosgate 4way 6x9's to go in the rear deck. Now to run wire to second amp and perhaps if time allows "Q" pad the doors.

I must remember to take before and after pics!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
"Q" pads are a less expensive sound deadening material kinda like dynomat. Not sure how much difference they will make but I thought it might be worth a shot.

I mis-typed about the seats... they are from a earlier year model LHS. The bottom seat is screwed on not pushed into the tabs in the floor. The rear seats have the center armrest but where the seat is attached on the bottom the metal strips are set closer to the center of the car. Your right they fit, but can't be bolted down without changing either the seat frame or fabricating some kind of bracket.

I've also been toying with the thought of just taking the covers off the rear seats and putting the leather ones over the old forms. Seems they have the same plastic channel clips.... I haven't gotten to the front seats yet but I did notice that the passenger side is powered. My old one wasn't. I'm hoping its nothing more than running a jumper wire to the power. :poopoo:
 

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1st Gen FTW - It's AutoMedic!
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The fronts will just bolt in, and for power you just need +12 and ground. I don't know what the plugs are like under the carpet of a second gen - if you had a first gen I know the correct plug is likely strapped to the floor under the carpet.

As for the rears, there is some chance that you can just change out the frames. The one second gen - to - first gen I did would NOT swap frames - we had to actually remove the second gen frame and cut and weld the tabs in the right spot, the adjust where the top clips were for the back rest of the seat. As for bottom, it was just a frame swap and we were good. The problem we had with the seat back rest I believe was because that specific 1st gen car was designed with the built in baby seat, so you might have better luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Gonna have fun no doubt! I've dry fitted the rear seats and the tabs up top match, I might just have to see about removing the lower seat covering and see if it will fit on the old cushion/frame.

The other thing I had a question about was the drivers seat has some wear on the left exterior. No damage per se, just color faded/came off. Is there a spray dye that's recommended or just leave it be and drive it? I don't want to put anything on it that would rub off on pants as it got older.

Thanks for the wiring tip! I figured it wouldn't be too bad a install. I only wish mine were heated.
 

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Wait, those are fiberglass? Umm, that may not be what you are looking for if you really want a quiet ride. Look for a butyl based deadener (kills rattling) and a mass loaded vinyl (kills exterior noises). However, since it sounds like you already have them, I hope they do in fact accomplish your goals.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
The "Q" pads are a vinyl/butyl based deadener. What exactly is mass loaded vinyl? Extra thick pads?
 

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This is why I thought it was fiberglass.

As far as the MLV, it normally comes in 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick sheets and is used to block out unwanted sounds whereas deadener, which is normally a butyl layer topped with aluminum, is used to dampen the vibrations of the metal panels. That was the shortened version. If you want to really learn about it, read this PDF, it has some great information however it is not a short read. If you would like, I can send you many links to some great product as well as some personal recommendations.

Edit: This wasn't meant to hijak, I just wanted to help make sure you are actually getting what you are looking for out of your car.
 

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If the op wants that functionality, then yes. The issue would be the wiring and switches. Not really all that hard, but If it has variable temps or needs a certain voltage, you would need to account for that prior the install.
 

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Gonna have fun no doubt! I've dry fitted the rear seats and the tabs up top match, I might just have to see about removing the lower seat covering and see if it will fit on the old cushion/frame.

The other thing I had a question about was the drivers seat has some wear on the left exterior. No damage per se, just color faded/came off. Is there a spray dye that's recommended or just leave it be and drive it? I don't want to put anything on it that would rub off on pants as it got older.

Thanks for the wiring tip! I figured it wouldn't be too bad a install. I only wish mine were heated.
Leatherique.com for all of your leather concerns!!
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
Wait....it's not a whips and chains site is it?! :whipschains:

No seriously, it looked like a great site. I've ordered some rejuvination oil and cleaner. I hope it works well, since the passenger seat is "cardboard" stiff. The rest of the leather isn't bad at all. I wish I'd read the site before cleaning it with saddle soap though... :poopoo:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Why hells NO! I had to take my daughter to the ER yesterday (again) for a high temp (102.5 for the last week) Check out the pics in my profile and you'll see why I'm a little nutz now!
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Dear God.... naked trep she was. I few days ago it rained here and I had left the drivers side window down. My son told me it was raining and he went to roll up the windows. I guess it was one hell of a rain because there was about a quarter inch of water in the drivers side floor pan and drivers rear floor pan.

While doing all these upgrades I decided why not do it all. So I went ahead and pulled the carpet out and that's when I found just how much water was there. Funny thing is it's not anywhere else in the car. I'm hoping it's just the rain, but I guess it's possible an AC drain line is plugged or maybe a heater core issue (no antifreeze smell so maybe not).

Since all this crap was out I went ahead and rewired the main parts of the sound system. New RCA cables, new Monster wire to fronts, and a new XM tuner. (It really helps to pay attention to wires and not wire a 5v device to a 12v source!) So new XM antenna ran through trunk.

So at this point: The OTIS wiring is done, New audio wiring done, (got marine vinyl to redo front door panels with), carpet dry, sound deadening on rear deck done, Console reinstalled, Front drivers seat installed but not powered up yet. Still working on lighted ignition ring (maybe bulb blown), got to put in passenger seats and rear seats. At this point I'm freakin done for the night. Maybe tomorrow after work I'll have a little more patience and get the rest of the seats done.

Still have to transfer amps to back panel of rear seats, but not a massive problem.
 
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