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Discussion Starter #1
this all started when a fuelrail that was fixed under recall, started leaking.
i called dealerships and no one would help me.

so i did it my self. it missed real bad so i left it over night and next morning it was fine , 1k later i have horrible probs


well once i start my car at cold temp and get it to operating temp it will missfire horribly and die.
I let it sit for 15 - 20 mins and it'll run and drive fine untill i shut it off and let it cool to cold temp.

it then cycles again were it will get to op. and missfire and die, let it sit and she runs fine.

past
timingbelt 10k ago
trans 8k ago
coil pack 7k ago
fuelrail( dealer wouldnt fix) 1k ago
injector - orings 1k


im thinking

plugs
wires
coil pack
injector
pressure reg
vacum line
fuel filter
cam / crank sensor
--- all of the abouve --- (im thinking)
 

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something you might try... It is obviously failing when it gets hot. take a pitcher of water with you and when it fails again, poor a bunch of it on the coil pack, then try to start it. If it starts, thats the prob. I would probably rule out the vacume problems, as I feel thta they would give you cold engine problems too.

Have you pulled the codes from the computer? that might narrow it down more for you too

AJ
 

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Discussion Starter #3
11* No crank reference signal detected during engine cranking
12* Battery has been disconnected within last 50 key-on cycles
32** Open or shorted condtion detected in the EGR transucer solenoid circuit
55* Completion of fault code display on Check Engine Lamp
 

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#11 tells ya something. I would look at the crank sensor

#32 could also be the prob. as the car warms up, the EGR if it is not functioning properly will cause it to run like ass. check the wiring to the EGR solenoid, and check that crank sensor. The crank sensor if it needs to be replaced is about 40 bucks at Autozone for the 3.3. I don't know if it uses the same one on your 3.5 or not.

I would rule out the coilpack, plugs and wires for now unless you have not changed the plugs, then I would go ahead and change them as they are a tune up maint item anyway.(plus they are cheap) same goes for the fuel filter.

something you might try if your egr solenoid is easy to get to, take a screw driver and smack it with the handle when it acts up and see if it improves, or jiggle the wire harness/ connector to it.

AJ

Hope this helps
 

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me thinks its the crank sensor. My egr is bad also and it ran a little shitty before I did the delete, but not that bad at all. Try disconnecting it from the plenum on the back and the vac. line too, plug the egr and plenum. If it still runs like **** its the crank sensor most definately, I don't know why else you'd get a code 11.
 
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Before you change parts can you make fuel pressure test? You should have 48 psi without vacum. Many time people chew the o-ring for the fuel pressure regulator when they reinstall.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
even if it was the case.

it only dies 1 time. when it hits op. temp from a cold start.
If the temp of coolant is anywere above the bottom mark i have no problems on restart. it will get to op. temp on warm start and be fine.

now if the oring is messed up will that cause occasional stalling on left turns and like a champ on right turns
 

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something else just occured to me... you have a code 12. I assumed that you unhooked the battery for a repair reecently. If you have not disconnected the battery in hte past month or so, you might look at the connections. you might have a bad ground or a loose or corroded connector that is intermittantly loosing touch.

If you did unhook the battery for a repair recently, then kindly disregard.

AJ
 

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Ok, first when you did the fuel rail did you put new gaskets on the intake plenum ? If not you may have a leak. Also a thing to look at is the intake air temperature sensor, located here:


I think that you are have a problem when the PCM is in the Engine Warm-Up Mode. This is a list of sensor's that the PCM read off of in the Engine Warm-Up Mode. Maybe something on the list will help you pinpoint whats wrong. My feeling is the intake air sensor though. Here is the list:

MAP Sensor

Crank Sensor

Engine Coolant Temp Sensor

Intake Temp Sensor

Cam Sensor

Knock Sensor

Throttle Sensor

Knock Sensor

A/C Switch

Battery Switch

Vehicle Speed

Speed Control

O2 Sensors
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
IntrepidHero said:
something else just occured to me... you have a code 12. I assumed that you unhooked the battery for a repair reecently. If you have not disconnected the battery in hte past month or so, you might look at the connections. you might have a bad ground or a loose or corroded connector that is intermittantly loosing touch.

If you did unhook the battery for a repair recently, then kindly disregard.

AJ
when this first happend i pulled the cable.
also i just got a new batt 2 weeks ago


@Strongt - can i skip this warm-up mode by restarting the car before its fully at op temp. presuming this is the problem..

theres only so many pages in the shity 93 owners manual provides 94-97 1000% better than 93's
 

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Not that I know of, because the PCM takes temp readings off the Coolant Temp Sensor. So if it's not up to a specfic temp, it will just go back into the Warm-Up Mode again. Don't you wish sometime's you had a DRB II Scanner laying around !! :D
 
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