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Unless someone has a good answer on the Moog parts, I would suggest going to www.napaonline.com and looking at their part. They should have 2 choices - go with the one that costs more. When I rebuilt my 2nd gen Concorde's front end, I used that part - it is identical to the OEM part - probably is the OEM part. This is generally true of NAPA's suspension parts (i.e., they offer two quality levels, higher price one is identical to OEM, price is generally competitive. As you may know, some of the aftermarket parts for this are clearly inferior (smaller, thinner washers, different shape and poor quality rubber).

Another rule of thumb for me: AC Delco offers two quality/price points in any part - "Advantage" and "Professional" lines - always go with the "Professional" line for top quality. I've always been very impressed with their parts though no personal experience on these particular ones. They're on Rock Auto. You can also find them on ebay at discount prices - only get from high-rated seller and if the part is identified as the "Professional" line.

(1st and 2nd gens use the same parts for this.)
 

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Peva Thanks for the advice, my local Napa has them in stock. Moog said the K8516 is a thermal plastic design. I read a couple of reviews where the K8516's didn't fit right and caused tire wear or had to be trimmed to seat properly. Any tips for replaclacing them? Those front nuts are on pretty tight.
 

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There are a pair of flats on the rods for a wrench. Treat the threads to a some P-B Blaster or Kroil, then put the correct size wrench on the flats, and put a socket with a big ol’ cheater bar on it to try to break the nut loose. If the flats round off, put a big ol’ pipe wrench on it, and plan on replacing the rods - you may find that they need it anyway with half their diameter eaten away with corrosion where covered up by the rubber bushings. A torch might help (ahh! The smell of burning rubber). Oh - you do have a nut on both ends of the rods, so maybe two people with big cheater bars might break them loose (well, whichever one breaks loose first anyway).

Not knowing what condition my rods were in before removing everything, I ordered new ones. My originals had only a little corrosion, but since I had the new ones, I put the new ones on. I know I kept the old ones, but can’t remember if I threw them out when we moved a couple of years ago. I may have bought the new ones from a Chrysler dealer or off of eBay (I don’t think they’re in aftermarket).

You will have to partially or totally remove the control arms to get the rods off once the nuts are off.
 

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Are you talking about the bolts on the Inner tie rods. Once you pry back the locking tabs they should come out. These are the bolts inner tie rod ends into the center of the steering rack.They should only be there with around 70 lb-ft torque if installed correctly. Unless you're talking about something else.
 

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The moog part numbers are for the tension strut bushings (as peva was talking about).
The tension strut runs between the lower control arm and the front of the cradle.
The FSM shows each nut is torqued to 95 ft lbs. (but that's from the 2004 manual) That's pretty damn tight!
 

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The moog part numbers are for the tension strut bushings (as peva was talking about).
The tension strut runs between the lower control arm and the front of the cradle.
The FSM shows each nut is torqued to 95 ft lbs. (but that's from the 2004 manual) That's pretty damn tight!
They’re pretty damn big, and on hard suspension parts.

Yep - strut rods = tension struts.
 
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