[Bart]

I decided since I didn't have enough money to spare to get all the necessary parts for GR8WHT's "L" intake, I decided to just use cheap parts from home depot as a temperary intake until I decide to make a permanent one. I'm just too impatient and I wanted to see how much power increase there was. I'll get pictures soon... although it's nothing too great to look at . The pieces that I got make it a "J" shape rather than an "L" shape, but same concept though. Actually, reminds me of the nike swoosh. I felt some extra power... not a huge amount, but some. But just the "wohhhhh" sound alone makes it worth it. I do have a question though... maybe GR8WHT has a better idea about this: Ever since I did this I'm noticing a sound at low RPM's... normally right when I step on the gas lightly. It sounds like a helium tank expelling gas or something and it's very noticable when I have the vent control on window defrost... not as loud when I have it on face/feet setting. Of course, I also did that AC recalibration trick the same day too... so it could be because of that. Maybe someone else is having the same problem? It's mainly just annoying and I just want to know exactly where it's coming from. It sounds like it's inside the dash because I can't hear it outside of the car.

 

[Warlord187]

Air leak????

 

[Bart]

I revved the engine from under the hood and I couldn't hear anything out of the ordinary. It usually does it louder under a load so I can proabably put it in drive with the parking brake on and rev the engine a little bit from underneath the hood (Watch, I'll get a darwin award). I really don't think it's an air leak... at least from the intake... I made sure it was sealed up. It sounds too clean and constant... and air leak would have a vibrating sound... this is like an air tank filling up kinda sound.

 

[1mz-fe]

might you have inadvertantly knocked a vacuum hose loose?

maybe this has to do with that breather that GR8WHT's intake incorporated. i don't know to what it leads, but i'd investigate it more.

 

[Lafrad]

hey man.. parking brake won't hold the revving engine. the front wheels will go and just drag the back along.. too much weight on the front tires.

 

[blkbute]

Yeah I want to build the intake, but its just going to cost way too much, those damn rubber fittings cost a **** load of cash. for what they are, pluse the aluminum and PVC pipe, paint. After looking over the costs and things, Gr8 was practaly giving it away.

 

[Bart]

I figured out the noise is part of the A/C. I'm guessing it's because of the recalibration trick. It does it mainly when the window defrost is on, which I found out triggers the A/C pump even if you don't turn the A/C on. I decided to try the A/C after noticing the noise "clicking" on and off along with the engage/disengage clicking sound I get while idling. I kept my foot just enough on the gas to make the sound and pressed the A/C button on and off and the sound followed each time. My question is... why don't we have a choice about having A/C on while defrosting the window? I understand it works in humid conditions but when I'm driving down the road and need to defrost my window (windshield still fogs up sometimes while using face/foot vents), I don't want to have to use up gas mileage when I don't have to. Also, why is there a push button control for A/C when I don't exactly have control over it when the vents are set to defrost? This could be under that topic "if you could change one thing about the intrepid".

 

[Canuck]

Hey Bart. I made my own poorman's intake as well. It's made up of two 3 inch size 90 degree rubber elbows, a 3 inch abs pipe 14 inches long and some hose clamps. I noticed a lot of power when I first installed the intake but it doesn't seem as fast as it was now that I have been driving it for a month. Maybe I'm just used to it now. I don't notice any expelling gas soundso I don't think it's the intake.

 

[mlfca]

What is the AC recalibration trick?

 

[blkbute]

Now, is it alright to use just regular rubber fittings from the hardware store? will they hold up well enough? or will they have to be replaced every couple of months?

 

[btc909]

When I put in a K&N filter I also noticed my 98SE ran a bit slower also. I don't think the K&N is restricting air more so then a paper filter but I wonder if a different airflow sensor would need to go along with the K&N filter or some sort of intank mod.
A guess, the sensor is detecting more air coming into the engine and doing ??????
I've heard that something needs to be done to the mass air flow sensor needs to be done to do a intank mod correctly.
Thoughts?

 

[bboucher]

Changing my throttle body actually slowed my car down a little, but with the stock throttle body and a 3" tube intake, the car is a little faster. My trap speeds in the 1/4 mile went up about 1/2-1mph, so it's giving me a little more horsepower.

 

[Bart]

mlfca, here's the link to the thread about the A/C calibration trick: http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=9&t=000074

canuck, mine's pretty much the same except I have one rubber 90, one abs 45, one 3" abs straight, and one rubber straight. I think I just got use to the power too, then it just becomes "normal". That's what sucks... you can never have too much power

blkbute, I'm not sure about how long the rubber pieces from the hardware store will hold up. So far they aren't showing any wear on mine. After driving a while, I can hold my hand on them and it doesn't get too hot. I also have an aluminum piece shielding part of the intake from the catalytic conv.

as far as a sensor... in a way, I hope there is one. That would mean there's more possible power. On the other hand, I hope not because where would we find an aftermarket sensor compatible with the LH series?

bboucher, I'm confused... boring out the throttle body actually slowed the car a bit? maybe something to do with "backpressure" similar to an exhaust system dealing with the low end torque?

 

[bboucher]

Not sure why it slowed me down, but it did. Thought it was kind of weird. I talked to some Dakota R/T drivers at the track, and they had the same problem. They said that the computer couldnt compensate for the extra air because it has pre-programed settings at wide open throttle. Wish Mopar would make a PCM for the Intrepid!

 

[mlfca]

Originally posted by Bart:
mlfca, here's the link to the thread about the A/C calibration trick: http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/cgi-bin/ubb/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=9&t=000074


Thanks Bart
canuck, mine's pretty much the same except I have one rubber 90, one abs 45, one 3" abs straight, and one rubber straight. I think I just got use to the power too, then it just becomes "normal". That's what sucks... you can never have too much power

blkbute, I'm not sure about how long the rubber pieces from the hardware store will hold up. So far they aren't showing any wear on mine. After driving a while, I can hold my hand on them and it doesn't get too hot. I also have an aluminum piece shielding part of the intake from the catalytic conv.

as far as a sensor... in a way, I hope there is one. That would mean there's more possible power. On the other hand, I hope not because where would we find an aftermarket sensor compatible with the LH series?

bboucher, I'm confused... boring out the throttle body actually slowed the car a bit? maybe something to do with "backpressure" similar to an exhaust system dealing with the low end torque?

 

[SPOOK R/T]

Spook here some thing you need to do when you do MOD. Is disconect the battery for 10mins or more the computer resets its. Air filter,tbi, muffler what ever. I have talked mech friends at Rosville Chrysler. Chrysler computers well learn the new mods much faster that way. Other wise it well take a few weeks or more.