DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner

1 - 4 of 4 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, I bought my 1999 2.7L from Scott J.

Slate in color, pretty sharp little car. It's going to need a new hood and some body work to the rear quarters, but I'm not too worried. $600 - $800 to my body shop guy will have the rear quarters fixed. I'll junkyard dive for a slate hood and ES front bumper with fogs and work my magical steady hand for touch up of the other areas. Besides that, it needs the 12 pounds of bird crap washed off it and for me to figure out what I'm going to do with the audio system. Also it's getting leather seats and some other things from sacrificial 300ms or Concordes. Autostick is probably in the future as well.

I decided on a 3.2L with 56K on it from an 01 Concorde and every accessory still attached (including harness *whew*). However, instead of just taking the 2.7L loose and throwing it to the side, I decided to get a little more intimate with my car's inner workings and take it apart piece by piece. I believe this will make it easier on me when I'm plugging things back in and bolting them back together. It will also make the 2.7L easier to scrap for aluminium! :D

I haven't gotten my 3.2L yet from the shop (waiting on fixing the 8 ton cherry picker my friends pitched in for together and then got blown up when one of them used it to lift 200 gallons of waste vegetable oil and the container started bouncing).

Anyway, I'm going to try to snap some pictures (already broke the *** damn cruise control toothpick vaccum line) of my disassembly and of the 3.2L install. Hopefully I'll be able to help a bit more. As of right now...I'm trying to figure out what drugs were being taken when this motor was designed. Fascinating but utterly rediculous. So far I've found about 50 chunks of metal where one of the cam sprokets exploded and the chain ate the inside of the cover. Also, one of the bolts in the fuel rail had ZERO loc-tite on it and had worked itself loose. I'm sure that's good for them!

Anyway, I'm rambling but I KNOW you guys eat this stuff up! I'll keep everyone up to date...it may take a couple of weeks because of my "honey-do" list. New kitchen project, etc.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Been awhile, I know. Old motor out and everything ready to go. I have purchased the aftermarket oil-cooler and am waiting on the motor mounts from the place I bought my engine from.

The only problem is that they slightly butchered the wiring harness. One O2 sensor was cut (I still had my old ones, so I just popped it in). I've followed the wires and it appears they've cut two power wires (the one from the battery and the one to the fuse panel), which are easy enough as I'll just splice in my old ones from the 2.7 harness.

I only have one problem...the wires from the jump start terminal to the fuse box are seperate in the 2.7, but the one in the 3.2 seems to come from under the plenum...and I'm confused at this point. Do I just continue using the wiring that I left in my engine bay, going from jump block to fuse box, or do I remove this wire and use what I have coming from under the plenum of the 3.2? Does anyone have any pictures close up of the power wires going into and coming out of the motor?

Also, they cut the connector for the AC compressor, but they put butt connectors on the end! No problem I suppose, but I can't find where the damn wires are supposed to go. Has anyone chased these wires down before and can tell me where to splice them in at? Thankfully, this seems to be a minor annoyance...but I was assured that this harness was complete. I'm not the most happy camper at the moment. Also, both of these wires that come out from the compressor appear to be the same color. I'm colorblind, however, so have mercy.

Any advice would be well received.
 

·
I hit **** with sticks!
Joined
·
37,606 Posts
You can use the 2.7 battery cables--you will have to bend the connection on the starter slightly so that it will fit perfect-- be careful, if you dont bend them right they will rub the engine block or the exhaust manifold, and that is the last thing you want-- heavy gauge battery cables rubbing thru on the engine block is not good.

As far as the fuse panel cable goes-- the one on the 3.2 also runs thru the battery cables. You can retain the 2.7 fuse box cable. The cable on the 3.2 from under the plenum that you speak of connects to the back of the alternator.

Im not sure what you mean about the a/c wires. Are they cut right at the compressor? Are there extra wires that you are not sure about?

Leave it up to boneyards to screw things up. Ive done about 75 of these conversions and as much as I ***** about the engines needing to be absolutely complete, I dont think I have ever got one where I havent had to replace a missing part or repair a cut harness to something. Its part of the game.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
367 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Ah, right on, that makes sense now about the power cables. It's actually a LOT harder than I thought it would be to look at a motor sitting on a garage floor and then go look in the engine bay of a car and try to figure out where things plug in. It's getting to me. :eek: I didn't think to look at the alternator as it didn't make sense to me that they would disconnect all of the wires. I have a feeling that the wiring is going to be a LOT of fun to check.

I still can't believe they cut an O2 sensor wire right in the middle...it was 6 inches of wire that didn't even need to be unplugged. I still had my old ones, but...

For the A/C compressor, I have two wires that come off the compressor that have butt connectors spliced onto them, and the A/C harness has the broken end off the compressor still connected into it. I'm thinking when they pulled the motor their chain took out the connector. Even though I drug mine with my truck through my front yard while it was hanging off a cherry picker and didn't damage a single thing. I think I'm going to use the compressor off the 2.7 and swap out the clutch and pulley from the toastied compressor. I had PMed another member that did this and I'm hoping it will work for me.

I just nabbed a 2000 Intrepid with a 2.7 with around 100K on the motor (old motor blew up at around 40K and they had another installed) and it's making an intermittent knocking noise that either disappears when RPMs are increased or stays steady, not increasing with the RPMs. The emissions light is on, giving me hope that it's not the motor going after all but maybe some kind of spark knock. I haven't investigated yet. I'm going to be doing the swap to the 2000 instead (in better shape), so I'll have more parts in case I screw something up. It's also graphite metallic and my fiance's father asked me if I was now cloning Intrepids.

I answered that if I were to clone Intrepids, they would be genetically engineered without the 2.7L.
 
1 - 4 of 4 Posts
Top