DodgeIntrepid.Net Forums banner
1 - 8 of 8 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Weird electrical issues going on. The other day I found my trunk lid won't release when I push the button or use the remote. I do a quick check see. No wires look frayed...I'm thinking...maybe the solenoid. But, as soon as I close the trunk and go into the car... my windows don't work. My turn signals don't work (they don't even light up). My heater/air module doesn't work, display doesn't even light up. Air bag light is on. I'm thinking what the heck?
So, I check the fuses...all seem ok. When I got to #19 and pulled it out and it seemed ok I put that one back in and then the horn chirped and the heater/air came on full blast. Turned off the car and the heater/air display is lit up but no air is going(remember the car is off and key out).... Windows work, turn signals work. Next morning nothing works again. I disconnect the battery for 2 hours thinking that will boot the main computer. That didn't do anything. Put a new #19 fuse in just in case... still at the same place... no windows, no trunk, no heat/air display or blowing. No turn signals and air bag light is on. I am holding on to this car because my late wife loved it to death. I use for a winter car because it's great in it and less wear and tear on my newer car. Have some expensive medical things going on so even going to a mechanic to put it on the tester would be a luxury for me now. Any suggestions? Maybe get a priest over here?
 

·
I hit **** with sticks!
Joined
·
38,193 Posts
This is some sort of main power or ground supply problem, since it affects several things at once;

Have the battery tested, or try a known good battery. Low voltage causes all kinds of weird havoc. You can spend hours trying to chase down these issues when it can be as simple as a shorted cell in a battery, or a loose/bad battery cable.

Make sure all major battery cables and grounds are tight and corrosion free (at both ends). Sometimes the cables can corrode under the insulation next to the battery and it is hard to see; if they look really green this could be the case---especially for a 21 year old car. Check main power line at the fuse box, make sure its tight, no corrosion. Check the alternator fusible link (a few inches from the battery in the smaller power cable); make sure it is not corroded away.

If all that is good, next possibility is the ignition switch. You'd have to really just replace it; if you dont have the means to test it----that would be throwing parts at it but it would probably be cheaper that way than paying a mechanic to test.

Remote possibility after that is the BCM; but I doubt it. Other than that, its time and material at a shop to troubleshoot it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
This is some sort of main power or ground supply problem, since it affects several things at once;

Have the battery tested, or try a known good battery. Low voltage causes all kinds of weird havoc. You can spend hours trying to chase down these issues when it can be as simple as a shorted cell in a battery, or a loose/bad battery cable.

Make sure all major battery cables and grounds are tight and corrosion free (at both ends). Sometimes the cables can corrode under the insulation next to the battery and it is hard to see; if they look really green this could be the case---especially for a 21 year old car. Check main power line at the fuse box, make sure its tight, no corrosion. Check the alternator fusible link (a few inches from the battery in the smaller power cable); make sure it is not corroded away.

If all that is good, next possibility is the ignition switch. You'd have to really just replace it; if you dont have the means to test it----that would be throwing parts at it but it would probably be cheaper that way than paying a mechanic to test.

Remote possibility after that is the BCM; but I doubt it. Other than that, its time and material at a shop to troubleshoot it.
You got me wondering. I will check those things....but 2 years ago I had the engine replaced with a rebuilt... the mechanic said he had to change the ignition switch.... I thought that was strange. The engine had to be replaced because my daughter was driving it when the oil light came on and she didn't know what that light that looked like aladdins lamp means... So she kept going until it froze up. When talking to her I said why didn't you just stop and pull over? She said she wasn't sure what the light meant.... I told her that light that looks like aladdins lamp doesn't mean you get 3 wishes...it means you have a seized engine... the mechanic said his autopsy shows the oil pump failed..so anyway, got a good deal on a rebuilt and had a mechanic put it in... Only did that because the car means a lot to me.... anyway... since they put in the ignition switch the chime goes off like the key is left in even when the key is out. I cannot lock the door by the switch because it thinks the key is in it. Right after I went back to the mechanic and I got a dumb look, he said, there isn't anything we can do with it.... so for two years I just dealt with that but now I wonder if replacing that switch might do the trick. Well, I got a project now... oh boy!
 

·
I hit **** with sticks!
Joined
·
38,193 Posts
You got me wondering. I will check those things....but 2 years ago I had the engine replaced with a rebuilt... the mechanic said he had to change the ignition switch.... I thought that was strange. The engine had to be replaced because my daughter was driving it when the oil light came on and she didn't know what that light that looked like aladdins lamp means... So she kept going until it froze up. When talking to her I said why didn't you just stop and pull over? She said she wasn't sure what the light meant.... I told her that light that looks like aladdins lamp doesn't mean you get 3 wishes...it means you have a seized engine... the mechanic said his autopsy shows the oil pump failed..so anyway, got a good deal on a rebuilt and had a mechanic put it in... Only did that because the car means a lot to me.... anyway... since they put in the ignition switch the chime goes off like the key is left in even when the key is out. I cannot lock the door by the switch because it thinks the key is in it. Right after I went back to the mechanic and I got a dumb look, he said, there isn't anything we can do with it.... so for two years I just dealt with that but now I wonder if replacing that switch might do the trick. Well, I got a project now... oh boy!
Good chance its the ignition switch; especially if your mechanic put a non-OEM one in there.

These cars hate aftermarket parts. For whatever reason, and I've experienced this since I started working on these things in 2003; the aftermarket (autozone etc) cant make a good part for these cars, other than maybe a belt. I've had to replace numerous aftermarket parts with OEM on these cars to stop constant problems. Especially electrical parts.

Many OEM things are now discontinued for these cars so you may have no choice other than some aftermarket crap, but I suggest NAPA if you have to go that route.
 
  • Like
Reactions: peva

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Good chance its the ignition switch; especially if your mechanic put a non-OEM one in there.

These cars hate aftermarket parts. For whatever reason, and I've experienced this since I started working on these things in 2003; the aftermarket (autozone etc) cant make a good part for these cars, other than maybe a belt. I've had to replace numerous aftermarket parts with OEM on these cars to stop constant problems. Especially electrical parts.

Many OEM things are now discontinued for these cars so you may have no choice other than some aftermarket crap, but I suggest NAPA if you have to go that route.
That did it! Was the ignition switch. Got one from Advance auto which they say is Carquest brand. I don't know. Could be a cheap part made in China as the rest of them are but... Everything works...now it also doesn't think the key is in the ignition when it isn't. One small issue though, wonder what you think. I still have the issue that started the whole thing. My trunk release still doesn't work. I know it's not the fuse as other things that use that fuse work. I 'think' that the solenoid for the trunk release froze up and maybe the ignition switch was like 'oh no you didn't -- I'm shutting down' What do you think? I'm thinking next thing is that solenoid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
718 Posts
trunk release has power all the time.
key on or off.
wiring or solenoid issue it would be.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
17,733 Posts
On the trunk lid release, check that the wire didn't come loose at the latch solenoid. That happened to mine one time.
 
1 - 8 of 8 Posts
Top