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Discussion Starter #23
Update...got her up to 120mph today!! It had no issues doing so and felt great.
It really shifts great. Crisp quick and zero sloppyness...for having over 200k on her that seems great!

I'm still concerned with that oil leak in the rear...seems to be dripping off the structural colla/sway bar area.
I'm hoping...HOPING...its just my oil pan and not the rear seal. The rear main seal was the one seal i did Not touch in any way. It looked perfect and really this engines front crank and cam seals looked perfect as well but they all got changed.

Fingers crossed

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Did you replace the rear cam cap o-rings and put RTV on the lower driver’s side cap bolt threads? Although if they are leaking, I don’t think it would be more than a slow seepage.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
What about the rear cam cap o-rings? (Don’t recall if thay’ve been mentioned in this thread.)
Those o rings have been replaced. I did double check a few nights ago and reached back to see if i felt oil. They both felt dry i think.

I will look again today. Its a balmy 10 degrees outside here in Omaha. LOL

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You swapped oil pans right? Did you use a new oil pan gasket? Chrysler gasket? What about sealer/RTV? FSM describes where the sealant needs to go.

Looks like you have multiple leaks.
 

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Discussion Starter #30
You swapped oil pans right? Did you use a new oil pan gasket? Chrysler gasket? What about sealer/RTV? FSM describes where the sealant needs to go.



Looks like you have multiple leaks.
No we ended up not swapping oil pans because both drain plugs had aftermarket thread tap plugs on them.
And at the time, we were in mid engine swap (time constraints) and just threaded the bigger plug into the pan on the replacement engine. It took the bolt well and cut new threads and looked like it sealed. (Now...we know it doesnt seal lol)

And yes we applied RTV on the 4 areas per the FSM instructions.
No it was a felpro gasket.

Ill more than likely be buying a new pan anyway.

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It might be worth spraying clean the sides and underside of the engine and visually check for the leak point after driving only a little bit at slow speed so oil doesn’t get blown everywhere so you can’t pinpoint the source.

I wouldn’t be surprised if the oversized drain plug is leaking. They don’t always go in completely straight, and the washers that come with those plugs is very hard material, so they don’t seal against the pan land area very well. Since the threads cut by the oversized plug aren’t very complete/deep, you don’t want to crank down on the plug to try to seal the gap lest you strip the threads again. Replace the plug washer with one of a softer material so it can squish a little to complete the seal. Good luck finding a washer that is not too hard and not too soft. They sell a soft oil plug washer in the parts stores that is super soft - it’s so soft and cheap that it pretty much has to be replaced at every oil change - it squishes to nothing. Aftermarket companies can be real idiots.

Years ago, I found a company that made an oversized drain plug for Hondas that have the same size thread. Instead of the plug cutting its own thread, they shipped it with an over-size thread tap. The design of the plug is perfect - it has a groove cut around the underside of the head slightly shallower than the o-ring diameter - perfectly sized for a standard size o-ring, so it is perfect control crush of the o-ring for perfect seal - just tighten ‘til the head bottoms to the pan land area. Low thread stress. If the o-ring ever takes a set (flattens), you just replace it with a new one.
 

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Short of replacing the pan, probably the best and easiest fix (won’t leak):

...Or, as I've done in the past; and one of the few "quick fixes" I like; get a speedy plug. They work very well; I always asked the owner of the vehicle, but once installed, no more issues, and money saved!

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-65109?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-dorman&gclid=CjwKCAiA4t_iBRApEiwAn-vt-wQGqTTsXXJvnN9FToWl3_N4XQefsdyQccW4E32P6qj7MOPp6UCInBoC3-gQAvD_BwE
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Update...

The oil leak at the sway bar/structural collar area and drain plug seemed to have stopped.
It was the drain plug the whole time. I was brave and gave 2 more quarter turns on the drain plug and it actually snugged up and sealed.

All this weak there's been Zero drips from the drain plug and nothing from the rear of the pan. The oil running down the front of the pan i still need to check. It does not leave large puddles. I dont think its the front crank seal because i peeked into the timing belt area and the belt and pulleys all are completely dry with no signs of oil from looking down into the timing area.
When the weather cooperates i will try to address it some more. If it is indeed the oil pan sealing surface i will definitely replace the pan.

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Discussion Starter #34
Side note...

How do you fix the door weatherstrip issue? All 4 doors are doing this


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You need to find a 2002+ 300M, Concorde or Intrepid. Does NOT have to be a 300.
Pre-2002 weather strip shrink with age. 2002+ do not. (or not nearly as bad)
 

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Update...

The oil leak at the sway bar/structural collar area and drain plug seemed to have stopped.
It was the drain plug the whole time. I was brave and gave 2 more quarter turns on the drain plug and it actually snugged up and sealed...
Glad to hear it sealed.

Possibly whoever put that plug in didn't force it those last parts of a turn to form the threads that far.

What I did when I used those before is the first time putting the OS plug in, I removed the washer, then turned the plug in until the underside of the head contacted the pan land area. Then removed the plug, and put the washer back on. That way you guarantee forming the new threads slightly beyond what's needed, which will guarantee seating/compressing the washer without the threads not being cut quite far enough causing you to think you've got the washer compressed when really you're just feeling the resistance of the thread not being cut that far.

So if I'm right, you didn't really add stress to the threads that could have stripped them - you were just forming the threads in a little farther. But still, it can be difficult to tell the difference between torque forming the threads vs. torque clamping against the washer.

Next time you change the earl, you might want to go ahead and do that (remove the washer, seat the plug, remove the plug, re-install the washer) so there's no question you've eliminated the thread-forming part of the equation as you tighten down.

Again, for however long you'll be using the OS plug, avoid applying much more torque beyond what it takes to seal because the OS threads are slightly weaker than the original threads (not formed/cut as completely), and we all know the originals didn't last forever.

Even if you replace the pan with new, you'll always have to be aware that if you take it to a shop for an oil change, some over-zealous wrench monkey can strip a perfectly good thread if he uses an impact wrench or oversize-length hand wrench (which some shops do have and use). Not unheard of that happening, and rather than telling you, they just hand tighten the plug with the stripped threads in the pan - maybe put a little RTV or grease on it. It will leak, but it will be a few days before you notice. Or you might not notice, then the next guy who changes the oil gets the blame (or you do it yourself and think you did it).
 

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Discussion Starter #37
Update... 3 months and 5k miles so far and it has been running great!

Still have that small oil leak at the pan. Gonna get around to that soon. Really hoping it's just the pan and not the front crank seal.
It has a weird "low pitched growl" at like 1k rpm. I feel like its valve train noise possibly but not sure.

Other than needing suspension bushings and struts she is a champ!

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...It has a weird "low pitched growl" at like 1k rpm. I feel like its valve train noise possibly but not sure...
One possibility: The 3.2/3.5 is known for making a growling noise between 1000 and 2000 rpm if the a.c. compressor belt is slightly loose. What most people consider tight enough is not quite good enough on that belt. Of course you don’t want it over-tight, but you should get no more than 1/4 to 3/8” deflection of that belt with moderate thumb pressure mid-span.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
It is with great sadness that I report to you all that my rebuilt used engine has developed low end knock.

I am beyond pissed. It was running and driving like a champ. No problems. Was cruising on the interstate at 60mph, went to go pass someone and heard something odd.
Came up to a stop at an exit and the engine is knocking very badly.
Really thinking about what I am gonna do. Honestly too pissed right now to make a firm solid decision.

It makes me wonder tho. Did I do something wrong? Was the motor screwed from the get go?
GAHHH!!!!!!

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I read through the first few pages and I don't see anything about any work being done to the crankshaft or Main bearings on that used engine. It looks like you had work done to the heads but nothing to the bottom end of the motor?

Sucks that it's knocking now. There are Crankshaft kits with over sized bearings available if you're into tearing it apart again.
 
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