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Discussion Starter #1
My car has a few issues. One is that parts of it appear to have one or more old layers of wax stuck to it that I would like to strip off completely. Other parts are badly oxidized and then there is the fading. Also have some nastly bug splatters that aren't washing off and lots of light and deep scratchs but they are of lesser concern to me than the old wax and oxidation.

What exactly should I be using to get through the old wax and oxidation so that I can start over with nothing on the car but the paint (and whatever might be left of any clearcoat the paint had)
 

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I don't think you want to take off the clear coat. I have heard DISH SOAP, but ONLY for taking OFF the wax.

As for the Oxidation, I think your screwed like myself. I havent found/heard of anything other than repainting to fix that.

As far as bugs, personally I would recommend Turtle Wax bug and tar remover, works GREAT for tree sap, so I am betting it would work well for bugs. If not, get out the handy Goo Gone!
 

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Armor all concentrated wash, i think its blue, dont remeber the exact name. Undilluted, the stuff will remove anything that wasnt put there permanently
 

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Discussion Starter #4
95Intrepisize said:
I don't think you want to take off the clear coat. I have heard DISH SOAP, but ONLY for taking OFF the wax.
No, I don't want to take off the clear coat. I just meant the way the car looks I'm not sure it ever was clear coated or if it was it looks like it isn't there anymore.
 

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If you're still looking, a lot of folks say Dawn dish soap, but I've heard about some waxes that seem to hold up just fine to that. Prep-sol would be the pro approach, but I just used a bottle of isopropyl alcohol and a microfiber towel.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Isopropyl alcohol ??

Hmmmm let me see....beer, whisky, rum...nope isopropyl? not in my vocabulary.

Seriously though, is that the stuff you get for disinfecting cuts or is it a cleaning agent?
 

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Dish soap wash to take off the wax follwed by a good surface prep then wax

Here's the steps you need right from the Meguiars site

Washing is the process of removing loose dirt and grime from the surface.

Surface prep or "cleaning" is a separate process designed to safely remove swirls, scratches, acid rain etchings, pore-imbedding stains, tree sap, dead - oxidized paint, as well as stubborn surface contaminants that regular washing will not remove.

Paint that has been neglected or that has undergone severe environmental contamination should first be washed. After washing, you should evaluate the surface to see if you have bonded contaminants. If you do, then we recommend using a clay bar to remove them safely. After claying, it's time to remove any remaining defects with a safe but effective paint cleaner like, ScratchX, Meguiar's Body Scrub or Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner. These three paint cleaners all contain mild diminishing abrasives and are safe to apply by hand or with Meguiar's G-100 dual-action polisher on all paint finishes.

After your finish has been thoroughly clayed and cleaned to your satisfaction, you should then protect it (and all your hard work) with a coat or two of a premium quality wax. For those of you with medium to dark colored finishes, you may choose to apply a pure polish before waxing to increase the clarity of your clear coat finish, bring out the richness of a non-clear coat finish and maximize gloss on all paints.

Meguiar's always recommends that you use the least aggressive product to get the job done. By this we mean start with the least aggressive paint cleaner first and only move to a more aggressive paint cleaner if your initial testing clearly indicates you need more "cutting" action to remove the defects and restore a smooth surface.
 

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IntrepidSportDriver said:
Isopropyl alcohol ??

Hmmmm let me see....beer, whisky, rum...nope isopropyl? not in my vocabulary.

Seriously though, is that the stuff you get for disinfecting cuts or is it a cleaning agent?
It's the stuff you find in the aisle with the band-aids. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks for the tips guys....now if I can just find a good buffer somewhere I think I'm gonna tackle my big old ugle trep and try to make her shine again.
 

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If you goto meijers there is a product called "bug, tar, wax remover" its basically a prep solvent, spray that sheeiit on the areas of wax, tar, bug stuff, or any other adhesives, let it sit for between 30 seconds to a minute or two (saturate the area with the stuff dont worry) and then wipe it off with a microfiber. Solvent will remove any kind of wax or adhesive. On details I've adopted a new rule of using solvent on the entire car (any panel I will wheel) and on the lower kick panels to remove road tar, that way, im only polishing fresh clearcoat and not polishing any old wax in. Oxidation use clay, and follow clay up with some compound then polishing to a glaze then wax. Only use compound where absolutely needed though because it sands off clearcoat essentially and make sure to use the electric polisher on low speeds with it, and avoid getting it hot.

On another note: use spray wax to remove stuck on wax durring the actual waxing process, it has mild cleaning agents in it and it will remove wax. (meguiars quick detail spray is what i prefer.)
 
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