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Discussion Starter #1
so I managed to blow out the door speakers, and figure while I'm replacing/upgrading them, I should do the rest of the system.

I have the stock 4 cd changer infinity system. I'm going to leave the sail speakers alone, it's impossible to find replacements I've already tried.

I'd like to do this cost-effectively, I listen to mostly country, alternative, rock - bass is good, but nothing like some people I know making people puke in their car.

so I'm looking for suggestions for 6.5" door speakers, whatever you guys think I need for mids/highs, probably a single sub and single amp. Will the stock headunit be able to take this, because I'd like to retain the cd changer? If I upgrade the headunit, will I need an aftermarket CD changer or is there a way to wire it to keep the CD changer even with an aftermarket headunit? keep in mind the subs and amps are going to need to be hidden. I can do the amp and/or cap under the seats, I will need to find a spot to hide the sub(s).

are just upgrading the speakers good enough, will the stock amp/headunit do fine, or do I need to go with the whole headunit/amp/cap/sub?

so:

6.5" doors ???
mid(s)/high(s) ???
sub(s) ????
headunit ????
amp(s) ????
cap(s) ????


thanks for helping a huge audio newb. :)
 

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dont use caps ;) wasteof money! do the big3 upgrade...alternator +, battery - to chassis and chassis to engine!
Best way is go on multiple sites and get the cheapest price then do the price match on either sounddomain or sonicelectronix.com

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #3
sorry, does that mean upgrade the alternator (as in get more windings put in professionally), or upgrading the positive wire going to the alternator?

battery ground to chassis

chassis ground to engine

this is what I will need instead of the capacitor? (btw...what gauge wire are all three of these, so I know what to upgrade to, or is there a tool or way I can find out so I don't have to ask newb questions like this and can find answers for myself)

thanks :)
 

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No just Upgrade the wire, Only respin the alt if u end up getting a higer current system I ran [email protected] It did dom but nothing much!

I would say min 4AWG but I would go with some 1/0AWG.
You can get a 25 foot roll of 1/0AWG off driverfx.com for cheap.

Also if you go to sounddomain there is a post there showing u all of the steps to the big three!

Jay
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Black_LHS said:
No just Upgrade the wire, Only respin the alt if u end up getting a higer current system I ran [email protected] It did dom but nothing much!

I would say min 4AWG but I would go with some 1/0AWG.
You can get a 25 foot roll of 1/0AWG off driverfx.com for cheap.

Also if you go to sounddomain there is a post there showing u all of the steps to the big three!

Jay
4 gauge is listed at 2100 watts, I think that's more than I'll ever need, so I went with that. thanks for the help :)

ps...do you think upgrading the battery terminals is worth the effort, or just a look-see mod that would be useless on this car?
 

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95PGTTech said:
4 gauge is listed at 2100 watts, I think that's more than I'll ever need, so I went with that. thanks for the help :)

ps...do you think upgrading the battery terminals is worth the effort, or just a look-see mod that would be useless on this car?

cooooorect, fancy battery terminals do just that, look fancy. And btw, what site is telling you that you can get over 2KW to run through 4awg?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
tweeter...most of the 4AWG's are claiming between 2000-2500
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)

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Discussion Starter #11
thanks man, that's a great help to answer a lot of my questions on my own :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
hehe, careful I just took you up on that :)
 
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