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It figures, just joined and already have a stupid question. I've dabbled in car audio since high school and now want a serious (well, semi-serious) system in my trunk. I'm running a 2000 Intrepid with a Pioneer DEHP3600 head unit. Not sure if I hae the Infinity audio system or not.

I'm currently looking at some Clif Designs CD100W 10" Subs and came to a screeching halt. The voice coil is 4 ohm. Now if I were to buy an amp for these, would I want a 2 ohm or 4 ohm amp?? I've never been quite certain whether or not I should match the ohms and I gues it's time I got an answer. I don't think the voice coil is dual.

Also, the power handling is 250w RMS and 500w Max. Should I get an amp rated at 500w for both (250w x 2) or 1000w (500w x 2) OR 1 amp for each sub? Or maybe choose something a little in between?

I could really use the help on this. It's been driving me mad for days and I need an end to it all!!!

J. Flow
 

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J_Flow_X26 said:
It figures, just joined and already have a stupid question. I've dabbled in car audio since high school and now want a serious (well, semi-serious) system in my trunk. I'm running a 2000 Intrepid with a Pioneer DEHP3600 head unit. Not sure if I hae the Infinity audio system or not.

I'm currently looking at some Clif Designs CD100W 10" Subs and came to a screeching halt. The voice coil is 4 ohm. Now if I were to buy an amp for these, would I want a 2 ohm or 4 ohm amp?? I've never been quite certain whether or not I should match the ohms and I gues it's time I got an answer. I don't think the voice coil is dual.

Also, the power handling is 250w RMS and 500w Max. Should I get an amp rated at 500w for both (250w x 2) or 1000w (500w x 2) OR 1 amp for each sub? Or maybe choose something a little in between?









I could really use the help on this. It's been driving me mad for days and I need an end to it all!!!

J. Flow




First off, I am guessing that you are going to be using two subs, right? Ok, If you get two 4 ohm subs, you will want to wire them in parrelell. This simply means that you will hook both + connections together and both -connections together, then wire them in mono to the amp. Fairly simple. The amp you will want to get MUST be ONE ohm stable in order to do this, because the way this works is, when you bridge out a 2 channel amp in mono, it see's half the impedance of the load. Example, 2, 4 ohm woofers wired in parellel is 2 ohms, when run in mono on a 2 channel amp, it see's half that impedance, which is 1 ohm......



Next, your power handling of the speakers together is 1000watts total. great. BUT box design will dictate the true power handling of the speakers, also known as displacement limited power handling. This is the point the speakers reach there mechanical limits in the box. I will assume that you are going to be putting them in a box as recommended by the sp[eaker manufacturer. So we wont worry about the displacement limits right now


My advice to you is to buy the most powerful amp you can afford, I know sounds like a crap answer, but it aint, heres why.....In all my years of car audio, i have seen more speakers blown due to burned up voice coils. Burned up from too much power? NO! toasted due to severe amplifier clipping/distortion! Whenever you drive an amp into clipping, you are sending high voltage DC from the amps power supply right into your speaker. I have seen 500 watt subs fried from 100 watt amps!!!! IIt is far sfer and better for the speaker to have more clean power than to have it driven by an small amp in full clipping while you try and impress the blonde across the parking lot. Yaeah, seen plenty of subs toasted with to much power, but 95% of the blown ones were due to idiots with small amps driving them into full distortion and not knowing the limits of the amp.


So yes, get the larger amp. You can crank it up and and have a nice loud Clean sounding system as opposed to something that sounds like , well, crap.........
 

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You don't necessarily need a 1 ohm stable amp. Most bridgeable amps will say what they are stable to at 1 channel and 2. If you're going to buy a stereo amp and two subs, why not connect one sub up to each channel? If you want to connect both in parallel, thats fine too but I would recommend just buying a 2 ohm stable mono sub amp instead of taking an amp with two outputs, bridiging them into one, and then connecting it to two subs, which doesn't make much sense. I totally agree that you don't want an amp that isn't powerful enough, but just be sure you don't exceed the power handling of the subs. RMS power is much more important than peak power because the peak figures are usually inflated and don't really have much meaning. My personal choice would be a 2 0hm stable monoblock sub amp with an RMS rating of around 400w and a peak of about 800w with the subs connected in parallel.
 

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00r/t.mopar.muscle said:
You don't necessarily need a 1 ohm stable amp. Most bridgeable amps will say what they are stable to at 1 channel and 2. If you're going to buy a stereo amp and two subs, why not connect one sub up to each channel? If you want to connect both in parallel, thats fine too but I would recommend just buying a 2 ohm stable mono sub amp instead of taking an amp with two outputs, bridiging them into one, and then connecting it to two subs, which doesn't make much sense. I totally agree that you don't want an amp that isn't powerful enough, but just be sure you don't exceed the power handling of the subs. RMS power is much more important than peak power because the peak figures are usually inflated and don't really have much meaning. My personal choice would be a 2 0hm stable monoblock sub amp with an RMS rating of around 400w and a peak of about 800w with the subs connected in parallel.


Heres the deal on hooking up 2 subs to an 2 channel amp, whether its 1 or 2 or 16 ohm stable......

Like you say, you can hook up each sub to each channel and run like that no problem, but you are not getting all the power that is available from the amp in doing this. Most amps put out considerably less at 4 ohm per channel stereo. When brideged they will put out considerably more. The only things that suffer when doing this are damping factor. (amps control over speakers movement)


Their is nothing wrong with running a 2 channel amp in bridged mode to run some subs. Essentiually any and all modern car audio amps are the same. whether it is mono block or stereo , the outputs are configured either in phase or out of phase depending on the application, one side pushes, the other pulls. So running 2 subs on a 2 channel amp in bridged mono makes perfect sense. But yes, a monoblock would be "easier" to deal with in installation, those extra 2 connections arent their to deal with!
 

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Thanks for all the help guys!! I'll see what I can come up with and hopefully will get some pics together after everything is finished.
 
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