And i have a question. So my timing belt slipped and if course the car just lost all power. So i put in a new belt top dead centered my timing put it all back together and started the motor and was running a,little rough and i believe the #3 ignition coil smoked and basically burned out. Got error code 1684 only. Which i already know it means my battery was disconnected. Could i have my timing wrong?
Would that cause my coil to fry?
Help please lol.
Strange coincidence that the coil chose to self destruct right when the work was done. My first thought is the coil drive wire (from the PCM) got pinched and shorted to ground which would result in (1) that cylinder missing, and (2) the coil burning up.
The coils are designed to handle the heat of normal ignition duty cycle, but can’t handle 100% “on” time (the other side of the coil is at 12 volts, and the PCM driver wire is briefly grounded for current thru the primary side to fire the plug when the ground is removed).
Yeah - the more I think about it, that has to be the problem.
That, or the PCM driver has internally failed shorted to ground, but again, that would be a big coincidence with the work being done. Yeah - almost has to be pinched/shorted primary wire.
The only other thing that would cause it to fail is open coil output connection (no connection to the spark plug), which allows the coil output voltage to go sky high and arcs thru the coil’s internal insulation. But primary side pinch/short is the more likely root cause.
With coil disconnected and ignition turned off, you might want to ohm out the coil primary signal wire (i.e., *not* the +12V wire) for that cylinder to see if it is shorted to ground. First measure on a different cylinder's wire to see what the normal resistance reading with ignition switch turned off is so you can compare to that cylinder's wire. If the wire is shorted to ground, it should read no more than an ohm or so. Non shorted should read somewhat higher, but not sure what it would be (hence the comparison to a good cylinder). If you get low ohms on the cylinder with the bad coil, then you can do some clever things to determine if it's the wire itself or the PCM output driver shorted out. (Again, my suspicion is a shorted wire, but no promises.)
Of course you don't want to plug a good coil into that cylinder gain until you have it figured out.
It is possible that previous coil just spontaneously failed on its own. If everything measures out good, then you could take a risk and plug the new coil into that cylinder to see if the miss is gone, and if not, turn the ignition off hopefully before the new coil gets damaged. You might have to let it run for a few seconds to see if the miss goes away to clear out any flooded condition from previous running with no spark.
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