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Discussion Starter #1
Found a 300m Special on craigslist. Was advertised as good body, good interior, bad engine. The story goes that the owner had noticed a light knock and continued to drive the car "gently" around the Des Moines suburb. Car started running like crap and died. He got it started back up and pulled it off to the side of the road. When we loaded it up my brother tried to start it. It fired up and squealed like hell. Exploratory surgery is planned and I expect to get it back on the road one way or another. Progress may be slow since its getting closer to winter.























Body-wise, it's looking pretty good. There's some clear coat issues around the rear window and a few minor scuffs, but I have yet to find a single hail dent or door ding. Interior . . . . could use a good cleaning. The seats aren't torn but have some wear. I'm thinking about swapping out the shifter bezel and cupholder with slate (cupholder being the molded style) and a slate leather console lid. Maybe repaint the plastic pieces at the bottom of the door, or swap them out for slate. I think I've got a good candidate for resurrection, either engine swap or engine rebuild.
 

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Good luck with the engine. Make this picture thread too.

Nice candidate to keep on the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Got started on it before work today.


Click on the photo to view the video.

I guess it's possible that the waterpump might not have too much resistance to turn when rotating the engine by hand vs when running at idle and may still be the cause of the squealing noise if the belt is slipping on it, but I am not making any bets on it. Can't take the belt off for better inspection until I have the torque converter bolts out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Not impressed with the quality of work that a shop in Ankeny did on the special when the previous owner had it. Missing a couple fasteners, mostly the ones that are hard locations to get to. Map sensor connector is broken and missing the red lock tab. AC pressure transducer connector is broken. And a couple other connectors are missing the red lock tabs. The ones that weren't missing the tab and had previously been removed for whatever repair were reconnected but not locked down.

End rant
 

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Discussion Starter #8 (Edited)
To do list:
1. Disconnect some wiring
2. Remove PS pump bolts
3. Remove v-band exhaust clamps
4. Remove structural collar and TC bolts
5. Unbolt engine from bell housing
6. Unbolt engine from motor mounts
7. Remove hood
8. Get a hoist and lift her out

Hope to get 1-6 done tomorrow, taking the day off work to get my floating holiday used up (they wouldn't give me the day after Thanksgiving).
 

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Progress!
 

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Are you going to rebuild that engine or swap it out with another used one?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Tear down and inspect. Depending on the severity of damage, I do have the go-ahead to yank the 01 or older model year engine out of my brothers 02 special parts car, swap tone rings & flexplates, and install or rebuild and install in this car.

I'm hoping that this engine hasn't spun a main and ruined the block (I'd prefer to rebuild the original engine rather than pull a 2nd one that is in unknown condition).

But for now, it's beer 30. Work will resume tomorrow.
 

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Beer it up!
 

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For what its worth, In my experience with these 3.5L engines, when a rod bearing goes you get a knock for some period of time and then it seizes up hard as you have steel rod and steel crank. With a main, they tend to break off the tang on the bearing and spin in the block as they weld to the steel crank and spin in the aluminum block. I find that most of these will start and run at idle, but will have no power if put in gear to try to move the car. Don't let them run too long this way as the oil to the upper end of the engine is dependent on the oiling holes in the main bearings being in the right place.
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
My brother Mike didn't believe me when I said I'd figure on having the engine to the point where it is ready to pull this afternoon. . . . Well, we went and grabbed the engine hoist from a friends garage but I don't figure I'll pull it till tomorrow or sometime this week. As it is, it's just sitting in place, ready to lift out.

Came up with a good storage and organizing solution for all of the bolts. $6 for the tackle organizer, $1 for note cards, and a pen that I already had. Only needed one organizer for all of the hardware so far (timing cover bolts are in a bucket with the tensioner and cover pieces).

 

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Discussion Starter #15
When I drained the oil I did find fine brass and aluminum (maybe iron) contamination. Without have torn it apart yet I'm guessing the crank thrust bearing and corresponding journal probably aren't going to look good.
 

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I have always used a similar method. I buy a 100 count bag of paper lunch bags. I write what the part is on the bag and make any other notes needed. Sometimes if I'm not familiar with the vehicle/engine, I also number the bags. That way you just reverse the order when putting it back together. And of course now days I take a lot of pictures with my phone.
 

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Fishing lure boxes makes for great bolt separators while doing motor work. I've been using them for a long time.

This is when I did my motor change,

 
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