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I found this on a 300C forum posted by a member called Deep Lava. Some good info.

Oil Filters - Dissected

I was wondering what the differences were between some of the current oil filters. The study done at Engine Oil Filter Study is quite dated. So, I bought some oil filters from the local stores, grabbed my hacksaw and away I went. All filters had an anti-back flow gasket.






Findings:

The basic Fram is still crap. Fewest pleats and therefore least amount of filter area. Cardboard end-caps.


The TG Fram is better. Still has cardboard end-caps but has 15% more filter media and a screened by-pass valve.


The XG Fram is, can't believe I'm saying this, a decent filter. This is the only filter tested that used a different type of filter media. It was more fiberglass in nature vs. paperish for all the rest and is supported with a metal mesh. So even though it has less area, it is 2-3 times as thick.




STP and SuperTech are the exact same filter. Decent filter area but cheaply made and the felt end caps detached from the filter media with frightening ease. No by-pass valve.


Mopar and Purolator PremiumPlus are the exact same filter. Plenty of filter media with metal end caps which are impossible to remove from the filter media as seen by the dead Mopar filter.


Purolator PureOne and Bosch are the exact same filter. Largest amount of filter media with metal end caps which are also impossible to remove from the filter media.


All four of the latter are made by the same manufacture with the only difference between the two sets is the Mopar/Purolator PremiumPlus has the by-pass valve in the front, built into the stem..


...and the Bosch/Purolator PureOne has the by-pass valve located in the back via a 45-speed record adapter spring thingy along with 4 more pleats of filter media. Also, the PureOne has the best paint job. A nice royal blue w/ pearl coat :)


The Wix and NAPA Gold are the same filter but the NAPA Gold had 4 more pleats (61 vs 57) than the Wix. Was this by design or was it a machine assembly variance, probably the latter since everything else was exactly the same. The filters were similar to the Mopar and the Purolator PremiumPlus but made by someone else. They had a similar stem based by-base which was not attached to the filter media but loosely sits in the end-cap without a gasket. The Wix and NAPA Gold also had the second least amount of filter media. They had metal end-caps with the filter media permanently attached.


The Mobil 1 and the K&N are exactly the same filter less the 1" bung thingy on the K&N. Both are heavy due to their thick bases and smaller inlet holes. They too had the stem based by-pass valve firmly attached to the end-cap but only had 55 pleats, the second fewest. It did have the deepest pleats which equals fifth in area and the filter media was slightly thicker than most. Had metal end-caps with the filter media permanently attached.


Here the #'s (sorted by price):
 

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Question is... which one filters the best without restricting flow and has the most reliable bypass. Fram is known for bad bypass, K&N has been debated that it allows too much dirt. I'm surprised that Bosch is similar to the PureOne most everything Bosch makes for cars is junk. I've been using Purolator, Wix and Mopar.
 

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Looks like an L14670 for me next time!

Second highest filter area, construction level with all the 'best'... The only thing this test didn't do though was check how fine the filter media was, as in how far down will it filter contaminates... I'd bet they are all just about the same 'hole size' with the exception of XG Fram... and with out testing, I don't know if that is 'better' or not... But it probably cloggs a little more, or a little less, easily. Personally I'd bet it is less likely to clog... but I could be all wrong there...
 

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Very Interesting!

I thought that the Purolator PremiumPlus was a re-badged Fram. Mostly because of price, but I guess I was wrong.

Simple way I see it is, if the filter costs less than $4.50, its not worth your time.
 

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Now everybody go find that advance auto coupon for $10 off a $25 purchase and pickup some of those PureOne PL14670 filters.

By the way, they replaced that awesome blue pearl paint job(felt like I was modding the car when I put one on) with a more functional bright yellow with anti-slip finish.
 

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Nice info..... I would like to see flow info and pressure drop using dino oil and full synthetic on them though.
 

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I prefer to call it ear-wax gold. They changed back in Janruary IIRC.

That was a very pretty blue paint they had lol. Quite a shame it had to be always covered in oil.
 

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I prefer to call it ear-wax gold. They changed back in Janruary IIRC.

That was a very pretty blue paint they had lol. Quite a shame it had to be always covered in oil.
the look of the thing is my last concern........... I was in NAPA and they tried to push a Gold filter on me. I asked if it was designed for Synthetic. The hung their head and mumbled .... no.
 

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Now everybody go find that advance auto coupon for $10 off a $25 purchase and pickup some of those PureOne PL14670 filters.

By the way, they replaced that awesome blue pearl paint job(felt like I was modding the car when I put one on) with a more functional bright yellow with anti-slip finish.
Do one better: get the PureOne PL30001 and get 1/2 qt more oil into your engine. For other filter part #'s, just look up Ford Mustang 5.0 in the book.
 

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I just got a Valvoline + Fram oil change package, the standard Fram filter is now the ExtraGuard (the PH16).
 

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Wow that was a lot of work and money.... Thanks strongT...

What do you guys think about amsoil filters?
How often do you change your oil, after how many miles? I do mine every 3000

I usually use fram tough gaurd and valvoline syn power oil.. Lately ive been using K&N filters and Valvolin syn power though. (I stocked up when advanced auto parts offered 5 qts of syn power and a K&N filter for $25)...


I have a used k&n filter and a used fram TG both with 3000 miles if anyone would like me to hack them open to see them after they've been used.
 

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I just picked up 4 Purolator Pureone filter's from AAP, $10 coupon; $3.80 per filter. Normally, I run M1 10W-30 5-8000 miles per change, adding 1 qt every 1500 miles, due to leakage/burn. But after reading extensively on bobistheoilguy.com, I might push it to 10-15k in the future.
 

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I just picked up 4 Purolator Pureone filter's from AAP, $10 coupon; $3.80 per filter. Normally, I run M1 10W-30 5-8000 miles per change, adding 1 qt every 1500 miles, due to leakage/burn. But after reading extensively on bobistheoilguy.com, I might push it to 10-15k in the future.
Why 10-15k????

I also have a small oil leak... not to bad though first it was the oil pan gasket, that one dripped a lot. Now, the timing cover gasket has a slow leak. I'm waiting until replace timing chain, water pump, etc. until I worry about that.
 

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I use wix filters, with Q horse power oil, change every 3000 miles, and my oil always looks new when I change it
One of the main duties of engine oil is to clean and hold impurities in suspension. When oil has served it's purpose, it should not look clean. The wix filter you use is not capable of trapping all impurities. You are wasting oil and energy. my Baldwin B-2 HPG will trap far more and my oil(in my hard working 300,000 km. Ram) is grey/brown @ 5000 miles. If it was clean, I would be concerned. This is the same filter that I will be using along with 10W30 Syntech in the Intrepid. BTW Quaker State was known to use far too much detergent and not enough lubrication---- for years.
 

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One of the main duties of engine oil is to clean and hold impurities in suspension. When oil has served it's purpose, it should not look clean. The wix filter you use is not capable of trapping all impurities. You are wasting oil and energy. my Baldwin B-2 HPG will trap far more and my oil(in my hard working 300,000 km. Ram) is grey/brown @ 5000 miles. If it was clean, I would be concerned. This is the same filter that I will be using along with 10W30 Syntech in the Intrepid. BTW Quaker State was known to use far too much detergent and not enough lubrication---- for years.

:werdsign: Quaker State is crap.
 
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