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Hello again fellas! It's been almost 3 years since I've posted to this forum. How time flies! Anyway, I still have my 98 Intrepid ES, now with 201,000 miles on her, and I've been having a problem lately.
Whenever I drive the car any distance greater than say... 40 miles, it will run perfectly to wherever I am going. I can shut it off and instantly restart it just fine, but if I wait about 10 to 15 minutes to restart it, it will just turn over with no start. I can wait another 20-30 minutes for it to cool down some, and it will restart like nothing was ever wrong. It's been doing this for a few months now, and it makes my wife nervous to drive the car long distances.
I had a new computer put in the car about a year and a half ago, so when I go to autozone to get the codes read, the scanner won't hook up for some reason so troubleshooting that way is out. The car never overheats, I haven't noticed any check engine lights, it won't do this if I'm just running around my little town even if the car gets up to operating temps, I haven't noticed any strange smells or strange puddles from the car. It's almost like something electrical is getting heat soaked while the car is warm and just sitting, and it takes a few minutes for it to cool off and work again, but I can't for the life of me think what that might be.
I used the search function and found some mentions of the crank positioning sensor, but I didn't find anyone having the same "no start-cool down-restart" problem as myself. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks

Kev
 

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What kind of computer did you put in the vehicle that wont except the diagnostics plug.
well it could be the air filter is clog-ed.
fuel not reaching the fuel injectors
battery terminals corroded especially on the ground.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
What kind of computer did you put in the vehicle that wont except the diagnostics plug.
well it could be the air filter is clog-ed.
fuel not reaching the fuel injectors
battery terminals corroded especially on the ground.
I had a shop swap out the computer. I can't see them using anything other than what was supposed to be in the vehicle. I knew the guy and had lots of work done by him on my tbird so I trusted him pretty well. I changed the air filter right after the car did this the very first time a few months back, and the problem continued. I just recently had the negative battery cable off while checking over the engine harnesses for broken wires and such, and the cable was cleaned before I put it back on. What would cause fuel to not reach the fuel injectors when the engine is warm? Thanks for the reply.

Kev
 

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This seems to be one of those "98" things.. Your ECM not communicating with autozones scanner could be a different problem....or...autozone's scanner.

Could be the crankshaft sensor, but there is a service bulletin below that was released to correct this issue:

You might need this update done to your ECM:

PCM - No Engine Restart/Rough Idle After Hot Soak

NO: 18-09-98 Rev. B

GROUP: Vehicle Performance

DATE: Jun. 12, 1998

SUBJECT:
No Restart/Rough Idle
After A Hot Soak

THIS BULLETIN SUPERSEDES TECHNICAL SERVICE BULLETIN 18-09-98 REV. A, DATED MAR. 13, 1998, WHICH SHOULD BE REMOVED FROM YOUR FILES. ALL REVISIONS ARE HIGHLIGHTED WITH **ASTERISKS** AND INCLUDES NEW SOFTWARE FOR ALL APPLICATIONS, THE ADDITION OF THE 3.5L ENGINE, AND ADDED PROCEDURES FOR THE 2.7L ENGINE.

MODELS:

1998 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid
**1999 (LH) LHS/300M**

**NOTE :THE SOFTWARE CHANGE APPLIES TO ALL VEHICLES BUILT PRIOR TO MAY 12, 1998 (MDH 0504XX) AND THE 2.7L THERMOSTAT MODIFICATION APPLIES TO ENGINES WITH BUILD CODES PRIOR TO 04120198 (THE ENGINE BUILD DATE IS LOCATED ON A LABEL ATTACHED TO THE LEFT REAR VALVE COVER). IN-PLANT MODIFIED THERMOSTATS MAY HAVE A WHITE PAINT DOT ON THE THERMOSTAT HOUSING.**

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:

Some vehicles may exhibit a hot engine no start, hot engine restart with a rough idle, or hot engine restart/die-out. Some vehicles may also exhibit misfire DTC's. This condition occurs after a 10 to 20 minute hot soak and may be aggravated by alcohol blended fuels. Some vehicles may not restart until the engine cools. Fuel vapor build up in the fuel rail may be the cause for these conditions.

DIAGNOSIS:



Using the Diagnostic Scan Tool (DRB III(R)) with the appropriate Diagnostic Procedures Manual, verify all engine/transmission systems are functioning as designed. If Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC's) are present, record them on the repair order and repair as necessary before proceeding further with this bulletin. Cold soak the vehicle outdoors or in the shop for a minimum of 8 hours. Connect a fuel pressure gauge Miller Tool C4799 to the service port for the 3.2L or **3.5L** engine. On 2.7L engines, use Miller Tool C4799 plus adapter 6539. Perform fuel bleed procedures on the 2.7L and disconnect the quick connect fuel line at the rear of the engine, just below the throttle body (Figure 1). Connect the adapter 6539 to the fuel line and the pressure gauge C4799 to the adapter.

Switch the ignition key to the "run" position while monitoring fuel pressure. Do not start the vehicle. Allow the fuel pressure to stabilize (approximately 48 to 50 psi) and switch the ignition key to "off". Monitor the fuel pressure gauge for 15 minutes. If the fuel pressure drops 20 PSI or more, the fuel pump module will require replacement along with the flash update Repair Procedure. If the fuel pressure drops less than 20 PSI, perform the flash update Repair Procedure only. **Additionally, If the vehicle has a 2.7L engine perform the thermostat modification and heater hose modification Repair Procedures. **
NOTE :WHENEVER A POWERTRAIN CONTROL MODULE (PCM) IS REPLACED DUE TO FAILURE, THE SOFTWARE OF THE REPLACEMENT CONTROLLER SHOULD BE VERIFIED FOR THE LATEST REVISION LEVEL. USE THE FLASH PROCEDURE TO UPDATE REPLACED CONTROLLERS AS NECESSARY.



EQUIPMENT/PARTS REQUIRED:
NOTE :THE MDS AND DRB III ARE REQUIRED TO PERFORM THIS REPAIR AND THE SYSTEM MUST BE OPERATING WITH RELEASE 21 OR HIGHER AND TIL CD RELEASE **1161** OR HIGHER MUST BE INSTALLED.

POLICY: Reimbursable within the provisions of the warranty.

TIME ALLOWANCE:

Labor Operation No: 08-19-40-97 Reprogram, PCM 0.5 Hrs.

14-50-01-90 Module, Fuel Pump Replace 0.8 Hrs.

07A0-01-91 Thermostat, Modify 2.7L 1.6 Hrs.

24-46-10-96 Heater Hose, Modify 2.7L 0.5 Hrs.

FAILURE CODE: FM - Flash Module XX - Service Adjustment
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Excellent info 32Intrepid. This was exactly what I was looking for. Would this happen to be a FREE update performed by the dodge dealer since it solves a faulty system that is their fault?
 

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Excellent info 32Intrepid. This was exactly what I was looking for. Would this happen to be a FREE update performed by the dodge dealer since it solves a faulty system that is their fault?
Doubt it, they charged me $110 to do this a couple years ago. Luckily I didnt need the fuel pump or any additional parts, just a software flash.

Seems to be a 1998 only thing; my car was made 10/97 so it was covered by this bulletin, and it fixed the hot start problem.

CLASSIC87 said:
Wow... mine does exactly the same annoying thing!
Yes, one of the few disadvantages of owning a '98 Model, LOL...
 

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Just wanted to add my '98 3.2 to the list of vehicles affected by what seems to be a common problem among '98 intrepids. My veh has 130,000 miles on it and the "no hot start" begain @ 128,000...after paying to have the fuel injectors cleaned, the problem seemed to go away, but has recently started again. The local garage checked the fuel pump for positive pressure and it was fine, and they too came across the same bulletin...I guess I'm going to have to pay dealer costs to have the computer reprogrammed....I agree that the cost should be handled by dodge since this seems to be an epidemic among '98 vehicles.
 

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I agree that the cost should be handled by dodge since this seems to be an epidemic among '98 vehicles.
I think that its just one of the bugs that comes along with buying the first year of a car. Trust me, I don't think there is enough space here to cover all the problems my buddy's dad has had with his 2005 Mustang GT lol. Luckily though, most of it was covered under warranty.
 

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So my car just started doing this while on vacation last week. Has anyone had the problem and got it fixed? What was the solution?
 
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