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Hey guys,

It's that time again. I'm currently running Royal Purple synthetic, however I recently moved and none of the nearby stores carry it, so I was thinking of going with Mobil-1. My question is that I see M1 has a "full synthetic high mileage" formula, and was wondering if I should go with that or regular M1. Or does it matter?

Planning to go with a Purolator PureOne oil filter this time.

Thanks guys!
 

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I picked up a 5 quart jug of Mobil 1 extended performace and a mobil 1 filter for 35$ at Auto-Zone. That's what in the car now and I've got no complaints.
 

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I just changed my oil. I'm using a Napa Gold filter and 10w30 Mobile1. Cost me about 50 bucks.

I would just go with plain old Mobile 1. That royal purple has more detergent then mobile 1 so it should be safe. Now if the car is reaching to 200,000 miles I would go with the high mileage stuff just so it isn't too harsh on the seals.
 

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oil usage is a personal preference imo, i have always used castrol gtx 10-40(unless it calls for 5-20 like some of the new hondas and toyotas), summer and winter, foreign and domestics.
 

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Farticcus of Plenticcus
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Yes, oil is mostly personal preference.
I am back to using what has given me the best performance and wear (based on engine oil analyses)
M1 0W40
 

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Blackstone Labs would have me believe that whomever the manufacturer, there is to be little difference in oil analysis. The characteristics of wear are in the given motor and how it is driven. So I buy whatever synthetic is on sale or cheap with MIR. I've had at least 6 different oil analysis performed on the 3 300Ms that I've owned. Would suggest to anyone to do them annually.

I've used Mobil 1 EP, Pennzoil Platinum, Valvoline SynPower, Quakerstate Horsepower, and Castrol Edge all in 5W-30. With Illinois temperatures, I use 5W-30 all year round as pretty much suggested in the manual.

For whatever reason, Pennzoil Platinum would be my personal preference.
 

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Castrol Edge 5W-30 and K&N oil filter > all

I've run 8-9K between oil changes and the oil holds up wonderfully, only eats a half quart in that distance.

I used 10W-30 Castrol High Mileage in my 95 Trep, changed every 4K, always used Wix or Bosch filters.
 

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why 10w 30 instead of 5w 30

Why not synthetic :hmmmm:
why fix something that works good? im in fear that running syntetic could dislodge to much of crap after 10 years of non syntetic.

10 30 because thats what my car had in it,i was told to put 10/30
 

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Valvoline SynPower 10w30 (NJ temperatures never call for 5w30, and I feel better having a thicker oil in there in the summer for start-ups), Purolator PureOne filter.

I've thought of trying out other brands, but why mess with what works? I had an aircraft mechanic open up a used filter at around 70k miles and he said it looked good, no particles. I might grab a sample of the current fill in about 4000 miles and send it to Blackstone for a full analysis to see what the naked eye doesn't pick up.
 

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You don't want to have thicker oil all the time. If the motor calls for a certain type of oil, your best bet is to stick with it.

Use too thick of an oil, and you're gonna get dry start in the morning or just when the motor is cold, since the thicker oil takes longer to circulate. 5W-30 is simply flow faster cold than 10W-30 or 10W-40, especially if you're in a colder climate. 0W-30 will work great with these motors. They're thin while cold, but they thicken up to the same range as a 5W-30 or 10W-30 oil when hot.

Not to mention, use a quality filter, like Wix, Bosch, Napa Gold (Wix) K&N, or Mobil 1. Fram and STP are a big no no, their poor design is very restrictive, and Fram...hell, they're made of flimsy cardboard inside. I've seen guys get little to no oil pressure with Fram filters, and dry start worsens with them also.
 

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I use 10w30 because that is what my climate calls for. 10w30 is to be used for 0F+, while 5w30 is best suited for temperatures under 0F, up to 100F. Summers here pop over 100F occasionally, so 10w30 is good for those hot summer days. I've yet to see even the wind chill hit 0 here.

Bosch and Purolator are the best filters that are commercially available. By that, I mean at Autozone and AAP. I've heard good things about Wix, but hell if I know where one could be found. M1 is good, but I'm pretty sure I saw an analysis of filters that showed Bosch and Purolator PureOne to be better, and the one time I used a K&N filter was not a good experience. I had more oil loss than usual during use, and it was a PITA to remove since you can't use a normal filter wrench, and the hex shape on the filter is a size that I don't have (too large).

BTW Bosch and PureOne filters I think are the same for all except the can.
 

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I use 10w30 because that is what my climate calls for. 10w30 is to be used for 0F+, while 5w30 is best suited for temperatures under 0F, up to 100F. Summers here pop over 100F occasionally, so 10w30 is good for those hot summer days. I've yet to see even the wind chill hit 0 here.

Bosch and Purolator are the best filters that are commercially available. By that, I mean at Autozone and AAP. I've heard good things about Wix, but hell if I know where one could be found. M1 is good, but I'm pretty sure I saw an analysis of filters that showed Bosch and Purolator PureOne to be better, and the one time I used a K&N filter was not a good experience. I had more oil loss than usual during use, and it was a PITA to remove since you can't use a normal filter wrench, and the hex shape on the filter is a size that I don't have (too large).

BTW Bosch and PureOne filters I think are the same for all except the can.
Napa filters are made by Wix.
 

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Get an 090 filter in there dude, works better, trust me.
There the same as the Purolator premium plus.
Generally any Purolator or Wix made (alot of brands are actually made by these two manufactures) filter will work well as others have said avoid STP and Fram (The XG is ok but expensive and there are other filters just as good for less ie:the previously mensioned wix/purolator filters all other frams use cardboard caps and should be avoided completely)
Here's some good info on oil filters.
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/general-discussion/31190-oil-filters-dissected.html
 

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Mobil 1 5w30, Mopar or Mobil 1 filter, for 5 years now, engine is as clean as a fresh dinner plate inside.
 

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Napa filters are made by Wix.
Good to know, that gives me a good filter source nearby.

There the same as the Purolator premium plus.
Generally any Purolator or Wix made (alot of brands are actually made by these two manufactures) filter will work well as others have said avoid STP and Fram (The XG is ok but expensive and there are other filters just as good for less ie:the previously mensioned wix/purolator filters all other frams use cardboard caps and should be avoided completely)
Here's some good info on oil filters.
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/general-discussion/31190-oil-filters-dissected.html
Yep. Purolator makes the Bosch oil filters. In fact, if you go to Advance and check out the oil filter section, there's a display showing cutouts of the PureOne and Bosch Premium oil filters. Exactly the same on the inside. Even the Bosch now has the textured finish that I like on the PureOnes, which makes installation and removal that much easier.
 
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