Oil Change?......
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Did you buy a FRAM oil filter??? 
get the engine hot so the oil slacks up. make sure you're on a flat surface. drop the oil, let it drain for a good 45 mins or so. when you put the new filter on, put some new oil on your finger and oil up the end of it so it seals tight. then replace the nut and fill the block back up. should be about that easy.
The filter isn't all that easy to get at unless you have the car on a lift. It's waaay up there. Check around about the filter thing, there is a filter site that some guy/company checked just about every filter out there and Fram did not do well. Believe it or not the ACDelco filter from GM was one of the best. So I have that one on my R/T. Please do some checking, all filters and oils are NOT the same. http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
I8rpony, what don said its true the oil filter is way up there. also dont be scared if u dont find it because the mopar filter come in the color of black (it happened to me ) also the oil filter will be hard to unscrew if this is your first time changin ur oil because they tight that oil filter to tight. but later you'll find that it will be easy to change the oil in these cars. goodluck
) also the oil filter will be hard to unscrew if this is your first time changin ur oil because they tight that oil filter to tight. but later you'll find that it will be easy to change the oil in these cars. goodluckIf you are going to consistantly change your oil and oil filter, invest in a pair of ramps and don't forget to "block" your rear tires.
I don't know where the oil filter is on the R/T (I have an ES) so won't comment on that.
As far as weight of oil...read your owner's manual! It will say what weights are preferred and when (temperature-wise) you are to use them.
Now...IMHO...If you regularly (3K - 5K miles) change your oil, go with regular good ol' motor oil. Synthetic, while superior, is overkill. Also, yeah there has been a lot said about Fram. There has been a lot of "circumstantial" stuff said about them. I have yet to hear anybody (granted I don't know everybody) on newsgroups or bulletin board attribute a lost engine due to Fram oil filters. It strikes me that with so many people using them, there would be some talk about how the Fram oil filter failed, causing engine failure. Again, this is all IMHO. Take if for what it's worth. HTH.
I don't know where the oil filter is on the R/T (I have an ES) so won't comment on that.
As far as weight of oil...read your owner's manual! It will say what weights are preferred and when (temperature-wise) you are to use them.
Now...IMHO...If you regularly (3K - 5K miles) change your oil, go with regular good ol' motor oil. Synthetic, while superior, is overkill. Also, yeah there has been a lot said about Fram. There has been a lot of "circumstantial" stuff said about them. I have yet to hear anybody (granted I don't know everybody) on newsgroups or bulletin board attribute a lost engine due to Fram oil filters. It strikes me that with so many people using them, there would be some talk about how the Fram oil filter failed, causing engine failure. Again, this is all IMHO. Take if for what it's worth. HTH.
Good Luck getting them up the ramps! The front overhang on the cars are humongous...making it almost impossible to get up car ramps.
The only way I can get mine on car ramps is to drive downhill on my driveway onto the car ramps so they are flat horizontally instead of tilting up. Pain the @ss!
Good Luck!
The only way I can get mine on car ramps is to drive downhill on my driveway onto the car ramps so they are flat horizontally instead of tilting up. Pain the @ss!
Good Luck!
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Some other tips about oil (in my opinion):
You will need a good filter wrench for the Intrepid (the type that fits over the end of the filter).
When putting on the new filter, fill it with oil first.
I use synthetic oil (Mobil 1) with a Mobil 1 filter. I change my filter every 3k miles and my oil / filter every 6k miles. This is for a daily driver (10 minutes each way to work). Synthetic oil doesn't break down very much at all so extended intervals work for me.
The problem with cheap oil filters is that the pressure release spring that holds the actual filter element in place may open allowing oil to just bypass the filter element altogether. That's a safety feature in all oil filters to prevent oil starvation if the filter becomes plugged. It's just that on cheap filters, it may open prematurely, thereby not filtering the oil at all.
You will need a good filter wrench for the Intrepid (the type that fits over the end of the filter).
When putting on the new filter, fill it with oil first.
I use synthetic oil (Mobil 1) with a Mobil 1 filter. I change my filter every 3k miles and my oil / filter every 6k miles. This is for a daily driver (10 minutes each way to work). Synthetic oil doesn't break down very much at all so extended intervals work for me.
The problem with cheap oil filters is that the pressure release spring that holds the actual filter element in place may open allowing oil to just bypass the filter element altogether. That's a safety feature in all oil filters to prevent oil starvation if the filter becomes plugged. It's just that on cheap filters, it may open prematurely, thereby not filtering the oil at all.
I've been using Purolator filters. They have that nice 6-sided top that the "socket" fits on. Makes it real easy to get off/on.
The R/T uses 10W/30 in most cases, but check the manual for temp ranges.
I've got a hydraulic jack, and a friend made an adapter out of a steel bar, that fits the center part of the frame. Real easy up and down now. You will need to get it up a fair amount, in order to get under there to get to the filter. I'ld say get a couple of stands if you don't already have them. Better safe than sorry.
The R/T uses 10W/30 in most cases, but check the manual for temp ranges.
I've got a hydraulic jack, and a friend made an adapter out of a steel bar, that fits the center part of the frame. Real easy up and down now.
You will need to get it up a fair amount, in order to get under there to get to the filter. I'ld say get a couple of stands if you don't already have them. Better safe than sorry.Not to discourage the DIYer, (since I really like doing some things for myself), but I can get an oil change done locally for $18 - $22 CDN, which is what $11 - $15 US? I'm sure you can get close to the same without looking too hard near you. This is one of the best deals around, since surely the filter, oil and plug gasket cost near half that if not more.
Why would anyone want to do an oil change of their own on a regular basis? Sure you do it a few times for the experience and stuff, but then why not let the pros do it. This will give you a chance to see / inspect what's happening to your car underneath on a hoist and you have a lesser chance of getting burned or worse , crushed.
There's also a good chance you have to clean up the mess on your driveway, cause you missed the plastic pan and please DON'T dump the used oil in the nearest sewer/storm drain.
My 2 cents worth.
Why would anyone want to do an oil change of their own on a regular basis? Sure you do it a few times for the experience and stuff, but then why not let the pros do it. This will give you a chance to see / inspect what's happening to your car underneath on a hoist and you have a lesser chance of getting burned or worse , crushed.
There's also a good chance you have to clean up the mess on your driveway, cause you missed the plastic pan and please DON'T dump the used oil in the nearest sewer/storm drain.
My 2 cents worth.
If there was a decent place here on this rock to get my oil changed, I would. We don't have any of the chain oil change places, only local places and they charge an arm and a leg for .......? kind of work. I work for the Fed Gov't on a military base and I can use their hobby shops for cheap. Good lifts, tools, and help should it be needed. So I can buy oil, filters, and other stuff at a discount and use the shop. My oil changes cost a total of about $20 which is really a good deal for Guam, plus I can do all of the under car looking myself.
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My dealer would require a drop off at 8 a.m. and who know's when the phone call that it's done comes it. I agree that 15.oo is a good price for a "pro" oil change, but where can you find that! I'm moving to Canada! I paid 45.oo for Vavoline hybrid oil and Vavoline filter. That happens to include air,water,coolant,brake fluid, tranny fluid, lube(don't need it), power steering. So it's worth it if ya need. And you don't have to do anything but watch. Yeah, watchin's better.
Naw it's not worth it, it's way too cold here. Believe me, we pay way more for other stuff. (OTOH, Intrepids are cheaper here too it seems, even with both federal and provincial taxes - 15% total) Americans live in a great diversified country with a lot to be proud of. I would love to live in a country that has tropical climates, desserts, and cold all in one package. The one sad thing though; is that some people in the world see Americans with a virtual bull's eye invisibly painted on their shirts where ever they go.
[ October 06, 2001: Message edited by: R/T and Mac driver ]
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What's even more sad, is that those people who see that bull's eye on our shirts, are the same people we helped by giving them food, medicine, and money.
Now, about oil changes.
I have mine done at a local Dodge dealer. It costs me about $21 and I also get my washer fluid topped off and my car washed! 1 - 20 of 25 Posts
