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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So as the title says I've got oil coming blowing out the fill cap and when I took the cap off I noticed some white substance underneath it and a little inside. Dropped the oil an it was clean as could be. I've recently replaced valve cover gaskets,oil pan gasket , timing cover gasket, crank sensor , injector o rings, purge solenoid valve, egr transducer. It has a slight shake when idling as well. No codes coming up either. I'm at my wits end trying to get it figured out. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
 

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The gasket on the oil cap is probably bad - get a new cap (I recommend from dealer only).

Moisture in the crankcase will form a white foam in high spots inside the engine (water vapor rises, condenses, and mixes with oil to form white foam), especially inside the oil cap. Assuming no issue of coolant seeping into the engine (from gasket leak, or from bad water pump if 2.7 engine - but I see your is not a 2.7) condensation forms inside the engine from normal operation. Normal amount of driving will "bake" the condensation out faster than it can accumulate. But if the car doesn't get driven very much, you'll likely see the moisture-oil foam inside the oil cap. The colder the weather, the more you have to drive it to drive off the moisture, so may not see any foam in summer, but could see it in winter, especially if it's not driven much.

A neglected PCV system can also prevent the condensation from venting out of the engine. Check out the PCV system to make sure everything is in good shape: PCV valve clean and not clogged with deposits - do a shake test, replace every year or two. PCV hose(s) clean, not clogged, rubber not hard, brittle. or cracked, also hose rubber not turned to goo, which can open up into a hole, particularly at sharp bends - also check the rubber breather hose (goes from passenger side valve cover to intake tube) for being hard, brittle, cracked, or clogged.

I make the unusual suggestion of using a name-brand aftermarket PCV valve because I experienced two OEM replacement PCV valves that were defective right out of the box - I'm not convinced that it wasn't a design problem that may have never been corrected.

A malfunctioning PCV system can also cause your crankcase to get pressurized and blow oil out of poorly sealed areas (such as a oil fill cap with weak gasket). I'm not saying that you have a PCV problem and is why you have oil coming of your fill cap, but it is a possible or contributing cause (besides the gasket in the cap not sealing due to age). BTW - it looks like your cap's gasket has a rotted spot (your first photo), so, yeah - replace the cap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Crankcase vent hose had moisture in it when I took off some poured out. Smells of gas bad. Pcv valve rattles. My next step is to take off all vacuum lines and blow through with air compressor. Oil cap looks like it's cheap enough to replace so I'll do so. It's the 3.3l motor. Thanks peva for the information, I appreciate it. I may pick your brain in the near future with more questions.
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Crankcase vent hose had moisture in it when I took off some poured out. Smells of gas bad. Pcv valve rattles. My next step is to take off all vacuum lines and blow through with air compressor. Oil cap looks like it's cheap enough to replace so I'll do so. It's the 3.3l motor. Thanks peva for the information, I appreciate it. I may pick your brain in the near future with more questions. View attachment 42012
I had not noticed that this is in a 1st gen sub-forum, but everything I said still applies (except the 2.7 that I referenced is a 2nd gen engine). 🤪

So, how much does your Trep get driven each week? As I mentioned, the white foam under the oil cap can form even if everything is perfect if it doesn't get driven enough to boil off the crankcase vapor, especially in colder temperatures.

Otherwise, the water in your vent hose may mean there's s clog or crack/hole/leak somewhere in your PCV system - possibly in your PCV hose or valve cover port.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I'm in North Dakota, it's currently 19 degrees outside. In the last 3-4 months I've driven it maybe twice. It's got 120k and did not get driven very often from original owner ( my grandma) when I did oil pan gasket and timing cover gasket they were off for a few days. It's had a shake to it while idling ever since I got done with the project, I'll blow out the vac lines and do a pressure check and hopefully get it back to normal.
 

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The best way to clear it is to drive it at full operating temperature for longer distances. Rather than let it sit, use it at times you may otherwise be using another of your vehicles, especially if you take it for a highway (not city driving) trip.

Oil also absorbs moisture, so more frequent oil changes would be a good idea. On a car infrequently driven, it's better to change oil on a time-based (time since last oil change), rather-than miles-driven-based schedule. We're not talking short-term damage - it's more accumulated long-term effects.

You hear people say that cars actually can last longer when used more rather than not driven very often - this is one of the reasons why.

Brake drum/rotor rusting badly is another problem with letting a car sit unused a lot (brakes making rhythmic growling or grinding noises? - that would be why - you get a footprint of the pads rusted onto the rotor, especially during rainy weather - if rotors heavily rust-pitted, replacing rotors is the only way to fix it - light to moderate surface rusting can usually be fixed with a few miles of driving with periodic use of the brakes).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I'll definitely be driving it more. And yes I agree, a vehicle that has low miles and hardly driven can have just as many if not more issues than a vehicle with high mileage. If it didn't have 120k I wouldn't be bothering with it. Did a cylinder compression test earlier today and each cylinder was around 150. And one other issue is it's making like a ticking noise from the top of plenum, I think it's an injector issue. I'm going to run a few tests to see if I can confirm that. Could be why it's idles with a slight shake to it
 

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You might try putting either Sea Foam or Techron thru a couple of tanks of fuel to clean the injectors if you think it's an injector problem. It could fix it, and there'll be side benefits of cleaning deposits off the valves and intakes.
 

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So as the title says I've got oil coming blowing out the fill cap and when I took the cap off I noticed some white substance underneath it and a little inside. Dropped the oil an it was clean as could be. I've recently replaced valve cover gaskets,oil pan gasket , timing cover gasket, crank sensor , injector o rings, purge solenoid valve, egr transducer. It has a slight shake when idling as well. No codes coming up either. I'm at my wits end trying to get it figured out. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
Are you using full synthetic oil, that is what these cars recommend because they naturally run hot I had the same problem with foam underneath the oil cap, it turned out to be a bad pvc valve even tho they rattle when you shake it doesn't necessarily mean it's good, I would replace the valve and give it a week then check underneath the cap again
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I am not running full synthetic. I was told you shouldn't switch from synthetic to full? I did notice shaking the valve vertically it rattled louder and better than horizontally. Maybe it is bad? I mean there seemed to be a significant amount of sludge/white fluid/ oily gas in the breather tube which needs replacing, it's cracking and very soft. I haven't worked on car for a few days because I needed a break for a bit. The reman power steering pump I got a couple weeks ago is leaking from seal so I took back to Napa which they informed me they can't even get a replacement at the moment it's lifetime warranty of course so no cost on my end, so I can't even drive it at moment. And it needs struts all around so I've been shopping around for the best deal on them. When I'm done I'll have a new car basically lol. But at least I know what I got, which will be a finally tuned unit 😂
 

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I just replaced all 4 of my struts I got them off Amazon pretty good deal I got the 2 rear struts for $125 plus they came with free struts tower bars. The little bars that attach to the start. You get sludge in the pvc valve because it gets clogged and when it does it sucks up oil from the valve covers instead of the vapers like it is supposed too
 
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