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Discussion Starter #1
oh my somewhere on the car under it im getting a leak. 95 corde with 27,000 miles. I put cardboard under the car. hopefully i will see what color this liquid is. Now that were getting snow overnight i hope my plan works out. my dad broke his ankle so he is going in for surgery tomorrow morning. to many things happening at once. dad used to do oil changes with me. i guess i will have to do it. i have a 95 corde oil to change,00 grand voyager oil to do,97 step truck to do,03 malibu,05 civic oil change. to many cars. we did these changes our selves all the these years. i hope someday he can get under the cars and help me. dad will need plates and screws in the ankle. unless i just take the cars to mechanic to do.we saved so much $$$ over the yrs. i wish i knew where this leak is coming from.

take care all
 

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Well, This leak could be anything. I would first start off by looking at the color of the fluid. Me personally, I would start by putting a dye into the oil and let it run for a few days then use a black light to see if you can locate the leak. I would recommend having this done at a auto shop. I have a 2000 Dodge Intrepid with the famous 2.7 engine. My problem was that My rear main seal was leaking. I tried doing the dye myself but I had a hard time trying to find the leak even with the dye in the engine. I took it to a place here in Chicago and they located it and told me where the leak was comming from. hopefully you do not have to replace the rear main on your car. I really do not have any expirence on your type of car, but I strongly reccommend putting that dye in your car. Hope this is a good starting point for you. I hope your dad has a great surgery and gets back on his feet fast. Good luck
 

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surgery went well. he in recovery as we speak. as for the car seems like the leak is near the front of engine. is there a name for this dye. how much does a rear seal cost. i have the 3.3l engine. whatever it cost i dont care. its my baby and i love her. lolol.
 

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Rear seal ouch, requires alot. to change the oil on these puppies isnt hard really. the front seal may leak. So may the oil pan gasket. mine leaks. in the front. its where alumin and stell meet. Metal difference. and heat expaision blah blah cause it to leak when the gaskets get old.
 

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stroise said:
surgery went well. he in recovery as we speak. as for the car seems like the leak is near the front of engine. is there a name for this dye. how much does a rear seal cost. i have the 3.3l engine. whatever it cost i dont care. its my baby and i love her. lolol.
Ya don't need dye to find a leak. Buy some engine degreaser and thoroughly clean the engine, then start it up and drive it around the block, park it up on ramps, crawl under the car and start looking for the fresh liquid. The front part of a 3.3 will leak either anti-freeze (green) or engine oil. Trans fluid (red) just check along the cooler lines between trans and radiator. Power steering fluid is brownish and might look a bit like engine oil , but will be found at the hoses and/or connections at the rack,pump,or resevoir.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok seems like the fluid is leaking on the back of the oil pan. and leaking on the bottom radiator hose. i might bring it in on friday to mechanic. to cold out for me to work on it. brown color oil
 

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If it is oil that appears, get the dye. Espically if you do not know where it is comming from. This will save you time and money. I did what jedgxe said and all I ended up with was replacing my oil pan gasket and a few other things. Turns out it was the rear main seal. I am not saying this is your problem, but I am saying that it will not hurt to get the dye.
 

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I just replaced all the front seals on my 3.5L - cam seals, front main, oil pump shaft seal, oil pump mount gasket, oil pan gasket - no more oil leaks for me!
 

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how many miles did you have on your car when you did all of this?
 

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I did all the work at 135k miles. The front main seal was leaking bad - as was the oil pump gasket. The oil pump slides over the crank and bolts to the front block - driven off of a pulley by the timing belt. Fortunately, this is a spare car so I had time to work on it for a few weeks when I had time. I also replaced the 4 struts and strut mounts, all four brakes and rotors, lower control arms for the front, tie rod ends, innder tie rod bushings (for the 2nd time), plugs and plug wires, re-set timing of the cam shafts (had to use those special Miller tools to lock the camshafts in place), replaced valve cover gaskets, new radiator, new front hub/bearing assy's, installed a tranny shift kit including replacing all tranny accumulator pistons with better seals, steel sleeves and steel pistons, rebuilt the tranny solenoid pack and cleaned up the engine really well with degreaser. Engine looks nice and new - runs like new as well. Of course, I have a big garage and all the tools (and free time on the weekend).
 

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My next job when it gets warmer is replacing the AC condensor, replacing a couple of the AC lines, replacing all AC o-rings, replacing all the internal seals in the AC compressor, flush and re-charge the system with fresh R-134a (got a good deal at $5 a can for Dupont freon). I have to do the same for my 21 yr old Celica that still runs R-12 but I have 10 cans left of that stuff.
 

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Seems like you had a huge job to do. I am assuming that it cost a fortune. I also have the tools but Not the garage space. I have a GTO that occupies the other side. I also want to do all of that on my 2000 2.7 Intrepid, but I have to wait until Summer to work on my car. I am looking to buy a 3.5 Intrepid soon. Why did all of this happen to you so soon? I do not know if I want a 3.5 now. lol
 

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The car is 16 yrs old and things normally wear out on a car with 135k miles - this was an opportunity to fix things that needed fixing since they simply wear out. The only thing with I really had to do on the engine was to do a routine timing belt replacement (forgot to mention that). To get to it, you have to break down the front anyway. I had the timing belt replaced at a shop some years ago once before (70k miles) so when I tore it down for a new timing belt I found that the left cam was slightly out of time (5-7 degrees) so I guess the shop didn't take the time to set it correctly over both cam pulleys. While I had it tore down, I wanted to end that pesky oil leak so I took care of the rest. I ordered all my parts thru www.allchryslerparts.com (about 30% off list price). I spend about $900 total for parts - also replaced the PS pump and PS hoses (I also forgot to mention that in the previous post). These things wear out normally. I can tell you that a dealer would have charged about $3k (not including the AC work I still need to do - add another $1500 in labor. Plus I know its done right.
 
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