read this http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/showthread.php?t=39619&highlight=wire+ventdoes anyone have a part number for this sensor? is this a dealer only item or can i get this over the counter at a reputable car parts store?
Mine has been doing it for about 30k miles now and only during city driving and only at a stop. Now that I drive 95% highway I haven't seen my oil light come on in 3 months.You could use duck tape to cover the light, and order a 3.5 engine:squarewin
Most probably know this, but for those who don't . . . low oil pressure usually indicates worn main bearings. When the engine is running at operating temp and when stopped at a light, worn bearings do not provide as much resistance to oil flow so your oil light comes on.
Cold engine (hence thicker oil) or more engine speed increases oil flow and measured pressure, so oil light remains off.
Of course, the heat of a warm engine also increases electrical resistance and the same conditions (warm engine, idle speed) will often cause a weak oil pressure switch to send an inaccurate signal.
Seriously, get it checked right away
depending on what bushing went... if it is the hold down bushings (out at the ends of the racks, holds the rack to the car), they can be replaced, search the forum for the threads, there are a few good how-to's. If it is the tie rod bushings (small bushings in the center of the rack with long rods going out to the front tires attached there), it is MOOG part number k7408. It will cost you 18 bucks or so, and comes with bushings, plate, lock plate, new bolts, and a few odds and ends if I remember right. I'm actually picking up my k7408 tonight to install when I get home.
The new bolts have 15mm heads, and are MUCH easier to deal with apparently. The factory bolts are 22mm (close to 7/8) and the clearance between the heads on the engine and the rack is pretty slim. I bought a single 22mm 3/8th drive socket to try and get it out. I may end up trimming the socket shorter to get good bite on the bolt head as well as have enough clearance to put in the ratchet head too. if done like this its no need to modify a 3/8 drive socket
On the 3.5, you may want to remove a few things, do a forum search (when the search is fixed, it is broken right now as of the morning of 8/27) and see what others have had to remove.
After I do mine, and if I modify my socket, I'll send it to you for what I paid for it plus postage if you like. If I don't modify mine, there's little point to sending it to you. I'll post back an update on how it works for me.