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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone knows why my oil lights comes on when my Trep going into idle like at a red light or stop sign? Usually after the car heats up. It goes away as soon as I rev up the engine comes back on again at idle speed.
 

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Its either a Bad sensor, or something much worse. I suggest Getting it checked out ASAP.


Also, It would help if you say what car and engine you have too.
 

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sounds like the classic oil light flicker tsb. Look in the second gen forum for a thread about it stickied. If that is all it is, it is an easy fix. You don't mention what year and what motor.
 

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Yep definitely sounds like the oil light flicker thing... Check the oil pressure switch to see if there's oil all over it, especially aorund the connector area. My connector was SOAKED in oil. If this is the case, you need a new sensor. Buy the OEM one from the dealer... To protect the new sensor, you can install a vent wire in the empty spot in the connector.
 

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If it's a first gen, and it has experienced over heat problems, it's probably a bad pressure bypass spring... I had purchsed the care after multiple overheats, rebuilt it all, and had to replace the spring (1 tenth of an inch under spec and felt weak), and also had to replace the pressure switch (it is, after all, a spring affected by heat).

stick a pressure gauge to it and see what the pressure is at idle. If it is fine, replace the switch and call it good. If it is low, pull the pan, remove the plug and spring, measure it and replace if needed. If it is good, tear down farther for other issues (main and rod bearings out of spec, oil pump out of spec, etc). If the spring was bad, replace with a new spring (shim it too if you like), and re-check with a gauge. If it's good, you're good to go... if it's bad, tear down is required anyways...
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Oops! My bad.

It's a 2000 and 2.7 engine. Also I replaced the sensor switch about 3 months ago. It started flicking as soon as I started it up and went to idle.
 

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does anyone have a part number for this sensor? is this a dealer only item or can i get this over the counter at a reputable car parts store?
 

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You could use duck tape to cover the light, and order a 3.5 engine:squarewin

Most probably know this, but for those who don't . . . low oil pressure usually indicates worn main bearings. When the engine is running at operating temp and when stopped at a light, worn bearings do not provide as much resistance to oil flow so your oil light comes on.

Cold engine (hence thicker oil) or more engine speed increases oil flow and measured pressure, so oil light remains off.

Of course, the heat of a warm engine also increases electrical resistance and the same conditions (warm engine, idle speed) will often cause a weak oil pressure switch to send an inaccurate signal.

Seriously, get it checked right away
 

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You could use duck tape to cover the light, and order a 3.5 engine:squarewin

Most probably know this, but for those who don't . . . low oil pressure usually indicates worn main bearings. When the engine is running at operating temp and when stopped at a light, worn bearings do not provide as much resistance to oil flow so your oil light comes on.

Cold engine (hence thicker oil) or more engine speed increases oil flow and measured pressure, so oil light remains off.

Of course, the heat of a warm engine also increases electrical resistance and the same conditions (warm engine, idle speed) will often cause a weak oil pressure switch to send an inaccurate signal.

Seriously, get it checked right away
Mine has been doing it for about 30k miles now and only during city driving and only at a stop. Now that I drive 95% highway I haven't seen my oil light come on in 3 months.
 

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so... yea uh went to get my 96 inspected last week and come to find out... the rubber bushings from the steerin rack totally blew.. n e one know where i can get these wit out buyin the whole steerin rack??
 

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depending on what bushing went... if it is the hold down bushings (out at the ends of the racks, holds the rack to the car), they can be replaced, search the forum for the threads, there are a few good how-to's. If it is the tie rod bushings (small bushings in the center of the rack with long rods going out to the front tires attached there), it is MOOG part number k7408. It will cost you 18 bucks or so, and comes with bushings, plate, lock plate, new bolts, and a few odds and ends if I remember right. I'm actually picking up my k7408 tonight to install when I get home.

The new bolts have 15mm heads, and are MUCH easier to deal with apparently. The factory bolts are 22mm (close to 7/8) and the clearance between the heads on the engine and the rack is pretty slim. I bought a single 22mm 3/8th drive socket to try and get it out. I may end up trimming the socket shorter to get good bite on the bolt head as well as have enough clearance to put in the ratchet head too.

On the 3.5, you may want to remove a few things, do a forum search (when the search is fixed, it is broken right now as of the morning of 8/27) and see what others have had to remove.

After I do mine, and if I modify my socket, I'll send it to you for what I paid for it plus postage if you like. If I don't modify mine, there's little point to sending it to you. I'll post back an update on how it works for me.
 

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Try a thicker oil. My 02 SE did that all the time if someone put 10w30 in it, as soon as I changed to a little thicker oil, it went away. My mechaninc said something about when the oil heats up it thins out, and with the oil sensor issues with the 2.7, the sensor wasn't reading any pressure. IDK but it worked for over 170,000 miles.
 

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depending on what bushing went... if it is the hold down bushings (out at the ends of the racks, holds the rack to the car), they can be replaced, search the forum for the threads, there are a few good how-to's. If it is the tie rod bushings (small bushings in the center of the rack with long rods going out to the front tires attached there), it is MOOG part number k7408. It will cost you 18 bucks or so, and comes with bushings, plate, lock plate, new bolts, and a few odds and ends if I remember right. I'm actually picking up my k7408 tonight to install when I get home.

The new bolts have 15mm heads, and are MUCH easier to deal with apparently. The factory bolts are 22mm (close to 7/8) and the clearance between the heads on the engine and the rack is pretty slim. I bought a single 22mm 3/8th drive socket to try and get it out. I may end up trimming the socket shorter to get good bite on the bolt head as well as have enough clearance to put in the ratchet head too. if done like this its no need to modify a 3/8 drive socket

On the 3.5, you may want to remove a few things, do a forum search (when the search is fixed, it is broken right now as of the morning of 8/27) and see what others have had to remove.

After I do mine, and if I modify my socket, I'll send it to you for what I paid for it plus postage if you like. If I don't modify mine, there's little point to sending it to you. I'll post back an update on how it works for me.

on the 3.3 you can turn the wheel all the way to the left and get the left bolt out. put the new washer on the rack end then the pushing into the tie rod and then the plate. tightin the bolt tight enuff to hold it all together and lets the plat spin freely. remove air intake and turn the wheel all the way to the right. looses bolt replace everythin and put the plate in place. tightin to torque specs and turn the wheell all the way to the left and tightin that to torque specs
 

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The only thing I'm not sure how I'll do is to try to get the socket or wrench to seat on the head of the bolt... The way the lock tabs folded back, it looks like I couldn't get enough clearance to put a box end or socked around the head of the bolt... that's why I'm hopeing to make the socket a really shallow socket and then using a hammer, pound the tabs back using the socket as a punch. With my wheels turned lock to lock on either side I can't seem to get the left bolt out, or the right bolt out.. I can't get a bite on it.
 
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