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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello everyone,
I have been adding a liter of oil every 1000 klm, Today When I changed the spark plugs, one plug(on piston#1) was coated with oil! Which maybe, explains the oil loss/burning.
As some of you knows, I changed the water pump last spring (thanks Peva for your help), I can't see myself 馃槹馃槹 opening the engine again to do the valve seals.
Is it okay if I don't change the oil? The oil still looks good, and I think, it's a waste to change the oil that's still looks yellow/brown, how about just change the filter?

Another thing...
When I push down, or up, on the turning signal, it signals+sounds for a bit, then it stops and I have to manually push it up again and down again to work again. Any ideas?
And..
When bleeding the brakes (not ABS), should the ignition be on or off?

Thanks in advance.
 

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first thing, i'd bet your oil is from oil in the plug tube.
which coated it when taking it out.
although i may be incorrect.
even with adding, you get fuel dilution.
have you tried things like stp or something?

turn signal sounds like the flasher is bad.
it's located under the drivers side dash.
somebody else will know better than i do where.

bleeding brakes requires no power to be on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
first thing, i'd bet your oil is from oil in the plug tube.
which coated it when taking it out.
although i may be incorrect.
even with adding, you get fuel dilution.
have you tried things like stp or something?

turn signal sounds like the flasher is bad.
it's located under the drivers side dash.
somebody else will know better than i do where.

bleeding brakes requires no power to be on.
Hey, thanks Yevrah. The plug tube was dry.
No, I didn't try any fluid/oil leakstop, I tried it on previous cars I owned in the past and nothing helped, so I doubt it'll work/or ever...
 

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The combustion chamber tip of the plug is wet with oil? If so, I have to think that is one or more bad valve stem seal. It would be very unusual for it to be bad piston rings causing that. Do you (1) sometimes see thick black smoke coming out of the exhaust for a few seconds at cold startup, or (2) if you drive at highway speed (above 90km/h), then accelerate as if passing another car, then remove your foot from the accelerator pedal for a few seconds to decelerate (not using the brakes) to slow down to normal speed, and then, when you suddenly accelerate again as if passing another car, you see thick black smoke coming out the exhaust, then it is definitely valve stem seals. (Because we have poor rearward visibility in these cars, you may have to have a friend following you during the accelerate-decelerate-accelerate test for them to look for the thick black smoke. If the smoke does happen, your friend won't have to look very hard.) The accelerate-decelerate-accelerate test works because decelerating at speed creates a high vacuum in the combustion chamber, pulling oil into the combustion chamber thru any bad valve stem seals, then when you accelerate again, any cylinders with bad seals will be loaded ip with oil, thus sending burning oil smoke out the exhaust. If the valve stem seals are good, the combustion chamber vacuum won't be able to pull oil into the combustion chamber, so no smoke.

If you are bleeding the brakes by having someone push on the brake pedal while you open and close the bleeder, it would help to have the engine running so you have vacuum assist for a more rapid expulsion of fluid and any trapped air. If you are using a bleeder pump instead of pushing the brake pedal, the ignition and engine can be left turned off while bleeding the brakes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The combustion chamber tip of the plug is wet with oil? If so, I have to think that is one or more bad valve stem seal. It would be very unusual for it to be bad piston rings causing that. Do you (1) sometimes see thick black smoke coming out of the exhaust for a few seconds at cold startup, or (2) if you drive at highway speed (above 90km/h), then accelerate as if passing another car, then remove your foot from the accelerator pedal for a few seconds to decelerate (not using the brakes) to slow down to normal speed, and then, when you suddenly accelerate again as if passing another car, you see thick black smoke coming out the exhaust, then it is definitely valve stem seals. (Because we have poor rearward visibility in these cars, you may have to have a friend following you during the accelerate-decelerate-accelerate test for them to look for the thick black smoke. If the smoke does happen, your friend won't have to look very hard.) The accelerate-decelerate-accelerate test works because decelerating at speed creates a high vacuum in the combustion chamber, pulling oil into the combustion chamber thru any bad valve stem seals, then when you accelerate again, any cylinders with bad seals will be loaded ip with oil, thus sending burning oil smoke out the exhaust. If the valve stem seals are good, the combustion chamber vacuum won't be able to pull oil into the combustion chamber, so no smoke.

If you are bleeding the brakes by having someone push on the brake pedal while you open and close the bleeder, it would help to have the engine running so you have vacuum assist for a more rapid expulsion of fluid and any trapped air. If you are using a bleeder pump instead of pushing the brake pedal, the ignition and engine can be left turned off while bleeding the brakes.
Thanks Peva,
Yes to all your questions. I read your explanations in previous posts when searching the form.
As you know, I'm really dreading working on the engine again 馃槹馃榿, maybe next summer I'll see if I do the valve seals, but for now, don't you think it's a waste of good synthetic oil? I'm on almost the 5000 klm for oil change and the oil still looks like new.
 

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Sure - losing oil and adding fresh oil at that rate can extend your change interval.
 

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as i said. i could be wrong for source.
being just 1, i went for a tube problem.
at that rate of loss,, i wouldn't worry about synthetic.
and get a heavier weight to slow down loss.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
first thing, i'd bet your oil is from oil in the plug tube.
which coated it when taking it out.
although i may be incorrect.
even with adding, you get fuel dilution.
have you tried things like stp or something?

turn signal sounds like the flasher is bad.
it's located under the drivers side dash.
somebody else will know better than i do where.

bleeding brakes requires no power to be on.
Hey, Yevrah.
As you said, It was the flasher. I searched the form and found a great two topics, I read them both on how to find/remove the flasher.
As usual, Peva, was the treasure in explaining the detailed removal/installation(thanks Peva).
I just came back from the junkyard, I found an intrepid and a Concorde, I snatched 2 flashes($6) and installed one of them in my car. It fixed it.
Thanks again
 
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