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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi everyone .
Yesterday, I changed the oil pan gasket on intrepid 2.7 , when I started to torque the bolts to the structural collar holes on the pan , one hole thread striped and will not take any torque (the one next to the center hole), the rest of them were torqued .
Should I worry about it ?

Thanks
 

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As you may already know, the structural collar structurally joins the transmission and engine, so that they act as one stiff structural member to withstand the stresses generated by and within the powertrain. Obviously it has to tolerate the worstcase stresses, even abuse to some degree, over the life of the vehicle.

If you drive it normally, and nobody does some weird stuff like a neutral drop or similar, there may not be any problems. OTOH, to be safe, you might want to remove the collar and helicoil that hole (or drill and tap to next size up bolt, or replace the oil pan).

Your car, your decision to make, your risk to take. :)
 

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Also - be sure to follow the torqueing procedure and sequence in the FSM. Because the bolts to the engine snd transmission are 90° to each other, if you don't do the torqueing in two steps to allow the collar to be pulled to its final position to both mating surfaces before applying full torque, you will lock in high stress and run the risk of cracking the oil pan when you get normal driving stresses added to the ones you locked in by improper torqueing sequence.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks Peva . I did follow the torque sequence , but that damn hole ...
Oh well , I either have to healycoil it , or tap one step up to M12 , but I was wondering if tapping into aluminum would allow 40flb . So maybe eventually will healycoil it .
Thanks again
 

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So it's tapped aluminum at 10mm at 40 ft-lbs now. By the laws of physics, as thread diameter goes up, torque capability goes up (same clamping force distributed over more thread metal surface area and cross section). M12 bolt or M10 helicoil and aluminum hole threads can handle more than 40 ft-lbs no problem. I believe the M10 is 1.5mm pitch. If you go to M12 bolt, you should go with 1.75mm pitch. And stay with 40 ft-lbs for similar clamping force because, even though the M12 bolt and threads can take more torque than the M10 bolt and threads, you want to achieve about the same clamping force for the application.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks Peva for the explanation . I do have a tap set , you're right , the M12-1.75 is the one to do . I don't want to spend $40+tax to buy the coil thing when I already have the tap&die set AND the bolt .
Ps_
If it weren't for the torture of two 10mm bolts to the timing cover , I would buy a new pan , such a pain to get them out , and more pain to get them back in .🤪😁
 

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You're welcome.

Blind hole => bottoming tap?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Peva , It was a very easy and free fix !.
I took off the bolt (30mm long) and looked inside the original threaded hole and I could see about 7mm good shiny threads , so I found a 40mm long bolt(same pitch) and measured the depth of the hole and installed and torqued to 40flb , and made my day .😄😄
 

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Hah! Wish I'd thought of that!

Kudos for thinking of that - and to Chrysler for making deep threads.
 
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