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My Oil light comes on after driving for 15-20 minutes. Car ( 2000 concorde 2.7 L) has 75000 miles. The oil light used to come on when I brake but go out when I press the gas pedal. Now it just comes on and stays on. Been like that for about a year now. I want to try and replace the oil pressure sending unit. Anyone has a picture that shows where it is. Heard it can only be reached from under the car.

Also my internal door handles on the driver's side (both front and rear) ae broken. Anyone knows where I can get replacements. Will be grateful.

Hoping this car car take me on a 900 mile (one way) trip this weekend

Thanks.
Semayat
 

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The sending unit is easy to get to, it is underneath the block, on the passenger side of the engine behind and above the oil filter. You can get to it with a big socket or wrench (1 1/16"), no problem, just unplug the connector and unscrew it.
 

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If all else fails a crescent wrench or pipe wrench will work wonders if you don't have that big of a socket. Also make sure to use thread sealant or teflon tape on the threads, just dont clog the hole. After installation, before you take it down off the ramps or jacks or however you lifted it, fire it up and check for leaks.
 

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My Oil light comes on after driving for 15-20 minutes. Car ( 2000 concorde 2.7 L) has 75000 miles. The oil light used to come on when I brake but go out when I press the gas pedal. Now it just comes on and stays on. Been like that for about a year now. I want to try and replace the oil pressure sending unit. Anyone has a picture that shows where it is. Heard it can only be reached from under the car.

Also my internal door handles on the driver's side (both front and rear) ae broken. Anyone knows where I can get replacements. Will be grateful.

Hoping this car car take me on a 900 mile (one way) trip this weekend

Thanks.
Semayat
Hello,

I own a 2004 Dodge Intrepid SE 2.7l with a oil sending unit that light at first was intermittent and now it will not go off. I replaced the sending unit with a new one. The light went away and then returned to stay on again. I know just because you have oil in the engine doesn't means it has pressure because the oil pump could be bad. I installed a oil pressure tester (Harbor Freight sells the pressure test gauge for a reasonable price) and I ran the test. The pressure started at 80 psi with the engine cold and after engine warmed up went to 20 psi with the air conditioning on, on drive, neutral and reverse. I know the pump is working, the sending unit was new. So I believe either the cable that attaches to the sending unit is probably damage, however I am replacing it with a mechanical sending unit and gauge to have a piece of mind. My car is old and has over 30 thousand miles on the second engine, which is basically new. So to answer your question, if you do your oil pressure test and it passes, put a mechanical gauge or an electronic type gauge. Amazon has electronic sending units that are easy to install. Hope this helps.
 

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The aftermarket pressure switches are notoriously poorly calibrated. To keep the factory pressure light working, you would get a pressure switch from a dealer. Sometimes oil and other contamination on the connector can provide enough leakage current to light up the LED in the instrument cluster (LEDs glow with much less current than incandescent bulbs). But if that were the case, it probably would not be full brightness. But, again, replacing it with the Chrysler part would get it working correctly. You could de-mate the pressure switch connector and spray the wire and both halves of the connector with brake parts cleaner and let it dry, then re-mate the connector in case contamination is the problem.
 

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Contact cleaner and a genuine switch from the Dealer?
 
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