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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
checking the ignition switch

so my 3.5 is in limp mode. i already flushed out the old tranny fluid, put in new output and input sensors (although that was kind of useless since the ohmmeter readings on both the new and used ones was identical).
but there's one more thing i gotta try before i blame the torque converter, the ignition switch. i thought of it because i sometimes (especially when its wet outside) see my gauges all go to zero and my airbag light going on when i brake. i suspect its linked to the tranny too since when i'm stopped and they're all down to zero, when i put it in neutral they go back to normal, but the airbag light stays on. in fact that's how i know its gonna happen: the airbag light remains on when i fire up the engine.
anyway, my question is how do i open that damn box behind the wheel. i took the 3 screws off (from below), then i removed the steering wheel tilter. now's the part when i get stuck. i pull the upper half up but only the right corner shows sign of detachment. the left corner doesn't even clinch as if its still screwed. is there anyway to get it off in a civilised fashion without using brute force?

thanks.
 

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Maybe this will help:

Tilt the steering column up and remove six screws holding the lower column shroud.

Tilt the steering column down and remove the upper column shroud.

Tilt the column up and remove the tilt lever.

Using a flat bladed tool in place of the lever, tilt the column down.

And this may help you too:

Ignition Switch

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

The ignition switch attaches to the lock cylinder housing opposite the lock cylinder at the top of the steering column, under the steering wheel. The steering wheel does not have to be removed but the air bag system must be disarmed.

Disconnect negative battery cable.

Remove the tilt lever attaching screws and the tilt lever from the steering column.

Remove the upper and the lower covers from the upper steering column.

Remove the combination switch assembly.

Disconnect the electrical wiring from the ignition switch.

Remove the ignition switch mounting screws and the switch.

To install:

Position the ignition switch so the tab on the switch is aligned to the notch in the cylinder housing. Also, a slot in the end of the ignition switch fits over the shaft in the end of the lock cylinder housing. Use the ignition key to rotate the lock cylinder to align the ignition switch with the lock cylinder housing.

Install the ignition switch mounting screws.

Reconnect the electrical wiring to the switch.

Install the combination switch assembly.

Install the tilt lever, upper and the lower steering column covers.

Connect the negative battery cable. Verify correct operation of the ignition switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
6 screws? i knew it there was no way clips could have locked in so tight that piece of plastic. haynes manual says there's only 3. yet another one of their stupid mistakes.
 

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Dain bramaged
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balegar said:
6 screws? i knew it there was no way clips could have locked in so tight that piece of plastic. haynes manual says there's only 3. yet another one of their stupid mistakes.

3 that hold the top 1/2 to the bottom half.. and then 3 that fasten the whole thing to the column

t15 for the screws.. as for the tilt lever.. i dunno.. i just stuck allen keys into it till one worked..
 

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Discussion Starter #5
okay, i got the ignition switch out. now, has anyone got any idea how i can tell if its toast?
 
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