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Discussion Starter #1
I've got a recurring P0133. On a car with a motor that's been swapped. Same code I had before the motor swap. O2s have been swapped. I'm thinking wire harness...
 

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Woober Goobers!
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Symptom List:
P0133-O2 SENSOR 1/1 SLOW RESPONSE
P0139-O2 SENSOR 1/2 SLOW RESPONSE
P0153-O2 SENSOR 2/1 SLOW RESPONSE
P0159-O2 SENSOR 2/2 SLOW RESPONSE

P0133-O2 SENSOR 1/1 SLOW RESPONSE
When Monitored: Start and drive vehicle greater than 20 MPH and less than 55 MPH.
Throttle open for a minimum 120 seconds. Coolant Temp greater than 70°C (158°F).
Catalytic Converter Temperature greater than 600°C (1112°F)
Set Condition: The O2 sensor voltage switches less than 16 times for a 3.5L or 11 times
for 2.7L or less from rich to lean within 20 second during monitoring. Two Trip Fault.

Possible Causes:
EXHAUST LEAK
O2 SIGNAL CIRCUIT
O2 RETURN CIRCUIT
O2 SENSOR
 

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Woober Goobers!
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1/1 Sensor is on the passenger side upstream.

What brand O2 sensor did you buy?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've bought Bosch, I've bought non-Bosch. I know what the codes are... with a new motor involved... i'm thinking it's gotta be wiring... or maybe a bit of a leak on exhaust.... .
 

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Bosch O2 sensors are known to be crap in our cars.
 

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Bosch O2 sensors are known to be crap in our cars.
Here's a post with a convincing video that I post from time to time:

IIRC, this video was not made known to our community until after this thread, so this is a good time/place to post it again with this thread being revived. It explains that there is a real design difference between the OEM and the Bosch (and most likely other aftermarket) O2 sensors that explains why the aftermarket sensors do not work with our cars (OEM signal is referenced 2.5 volts *above* ground rather than *at* ground - creates an extremely marginal running condition so that depending on any individual vehicle operating points and the operating conditions, the engine could run intermittently, or not at all).

(The guy made one mistake by saying that NGK spark plugs are not OEM for this car, which he identifies as an '02. NGK was the OEM plug for 3.5 starting in '02 (3.2 also was discontinued in '02). Won't hold it against him - he obviously knows what he is doing. He obviously just did not know about that change.) [Actually he made another mistake: He referred to the car as a Chrysler 300. Of course it's a 300M.]

You have to wonder how companies can be so dishonest or dumb (sometimes hard to know the difference) to keep listing parts for applications in which they should know they are not compatible.

(not my video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-lUYRqaYvYI)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Update. I swapped the upstream and cleared the codes with a reader. Ran ok for a bit them got a flashing MIL (no ding noise), then it hiccupped a bit, threw the MIL light ON and a P0300 code. I'm thinking that with out the trims reset, comp was still running off the drivers bank o2 which was now the 'bad' one. Changed them back, heading out to get a dealer o2 for the original p0133

Anyone know know how to reset fuel trims?
 

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If you remove power from the PCM for 15+ minutes (by disconnecting top cable at neg. jump post, or pull Fuse N), that will reset to the factory defaults and relearn from there. Would that reset the trims?

I believe I've read in the past that when you replace sensors, you need to do that for that very reason.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update. I replaced the pax upstream O2 with an NTK and reset the PCM via fuse. 1000 no milk codes and no stumble. We'll see how long this one lasts.......
 
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