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If you have anything you want to add, feel free to PM me. I will not add any electric superchargers or intake resistor mods/chips that you find on ebay. I also will not add nitrous kits/parts, since they are pretty generic and will fit pretty much any car. In most cases, I will not list a mod unless its been done.

Items will fit both engines, unless specified otherwise.



Engine

Underdrive Pulley - $125
This pulley is much lighter and smaller then the stock pulley. Not confirmed if it will work on the 3.3L. Will work on the 3.2L and 3.5L. Will not fit the 2.7L.
Obviously you will need new belts for this swap: No. k060500 and 15535. Some have linked this product to engine damage so be sure to research first.
http://www.aspracing.com

Chrysler 98-04 3.5L (HO or non-HO) - Various Prices
The new 98-04 3.5L has an alum block, better flowing head, and lighterweight internals, among other things. Its not as strong as a 1st gen 3.5L, but its more efficent and lighter. Using the 1st gen 3.5L lower intake, belt/sprockets/pullys, plenum, sensors, and ECU will be easiest. Expect around 230hp vs the stock 214hp. However, the weight savings is really where you will notice the difference.

Best place to find one of these is probably your local Bone Yard or from a member on these boards. You'll occasionally find them on ebay as well.



Electronics/Chips
Piggy back, and soldered on chips. No one has had dyno/track proven results with any of these (PM me if you would like to correct me).

JET Power Control Unit (96-97) - $329.00
JET claims 10-12hp. Most people say its junk. I believe it will work on either engine. Part #65001
http://www.jetchip.com

JET ECU reprogram - $264.66
This is where you send your ECU right to JET and they modify it/reprogram it. Part number 514+0035 on NOPI.
http://www.nopionline.com

Superchips chip (93-95) - ~$300
I believe they claim 16hp, but the chip is no longer listed on their site. It might be worth a phone call.
http://www.superchips.com/

DO NOT EXPECT TO SEE ANY GAINS FROM THE "CHIPS" YOU FIND ON EBAY!!!



Transmsission
Parts to upgrade/replace the stock transmission.

Power Demon A606(42LE) Transmission - $1895.00
This is a full performance transmission.
NOTE: They may or may not still be listed on their site, but I believe they are still produced if you contact them.
http://www.powerdemon.com/DodgeLateModel.html#element66

Chrysler 2000-2004 A606(42LE) Transmission - Various prices
The newer A606s have much better parts then the stock 1st generation trans. For it to work, you have to make some minor modifcations. This includes, but not limited to, changing over the range sensor wiring and dremeling the new drive plate so that the 4th bolt hole matches up. They can be found on 00-04 Intrepids, concordes, LHSes, and 300Ms. Get a transmission from a 2nd gen 2.7L, and you will also get the 3.89 gears as an added bonus!

Transtar K72908J A606 Shift kit - $21.99
This will make the transmission shift faster. Its a good idea to install one of these kits if your doing your own rebuild.
http://www.northernautoparts.com/Pro...ctModelId=2489 - $21.99

Raybestos Kevlar High Energy Clutch plates - Various prices
Raybestos carrys these, and a few other high quality parts for our trans.
http://www.raybestospowertrain.com

Phantom Grip 4 Spring Limited Slip Differential Kit (LSD) - $299.95
Even stock, the 3.5L has a bit of torque steer and traction problems in the 1/4. This will make both wheels spin all the time, instead of just one. Again, it’s not listed on their site any longer, but it may still be available.
http://www.phantomgrip.com



Gear/Sproket Sets
These will raise the stock gear ratio. Expect lower gas mileage, but much better low end acceleration. Stock gear ratio on all 1st gens is 3.66. Speedometer will be slightly incorrect, unless an electronic speedometer corrector is installed. Some gear ratios have question marks, because I'm not sure how accurate they are. But they should give you a rough idea.

Prowler Pro Gears (4.97:1) - $1450
27% higher final drive ratio than 2.7L. Comes with speedometer corrector and new chain. Wider then stock gears.
http://www.realrod.com/main.htm
http://www.prowlerpro.com

2.7L/Prower/300M special sprockets/gears (3.89:1) - $100-$300
These are similar to the prowler pro gears, but not nearly as radical. They come stock on the 2nd gen 2.7L, the 300m special, and the prowler. You can get the parts from your dealer. You may need to buy the 2 chain system if you don’t have it already (usually comes stock on the later 1st gens). Your speedo will read around 7% faster then you are actually going. Do some research on this one but it’s likely that you’ll be pleased!



Ignition system
Parts to upgrade the DIS ignition system. Do not expect a gain with larger wires, unless you upgrade to the MSD system. The MSD and 8mm wires have proven to be a perfect combo. Avoid platinum plugs in these engines. Gold plugs will give you a nice spark, and they will last for a decent amount of time. Copper plugs will also give you a pretty good spark when they are clean. Replace the coppers about every 6k or less for best results. They tend to get dirty fast.

Taylor Vertex 8mm wires (3.5L) - $77.69
Black 74078 - Summit part number TAY-74078
Red 74278 - Summit part number TAY-74278
Blue 74678 - Summit part number TAY-74678
Just type the summit part number on http://www.summitracing.com and they will come up.

Taylor Vertex 7.5mm wires (3.5L) - $59
Pep Boys is the only known place to get these.

Magnecor Spark Plug Wires - Various prices
93 – 97, 3.5L, 8.5mm, 65122 - $219.04
3.5L, 8mm, 60122 - $173.51
3.5L, 7mm, 67122 - $169.47
93 – 97, 3.3L, 8.5mm, 65182 - $265.70
3.3L, 8mm, 6082 - $57.38
3.3L, 7mm, 6782 - $54.00
http://www.magnecor.com

MSD DIS-4 Ignition - $300-$400
You will need 2 8912 Tach Adaptors for this to work.
http://filebox.vt.edu/users/cowarren/info.htm

Champion Gold Spark Plugs - Various prices
These are the best plugs for our engines. They are kind of hard to find now, but you might be able to find them at your local NAPA. Coppers will also work.
http://www.carparts.com/
http://www.sparkplugs.com/more_info....92002&pid=4242



Intake

Spectre Civic Intake - $40
You can get this intake from your local AutoZone. Model #8219. It will fit on both engines. You need to buy a filter separate. It’s a simple and very common plug and play item.

Vibrant 2201 Intake - $57.99 shipped
Another Civic intake that's known to fit Intrepids. Available in red, blue, or polished. Comes with a filter. Available on ebay and at a lot of auto parts stores.

K&N replacment filter - $42.95
This replaces the stock filter. It will flow more air then the stock paper filter. This will not work with the Spectre intake. However a universal 3" cone filter will work. Available on order from most Auto Parts stores as well for approximately $45.
http://www.stylinconcepts.com - $42.95

Airaid Throttle Body Spacers (3.5L) - $142.88 - $200
TB spacers will mainly help in low end.
http://www.poweraid.com/300-562_dodge.asp - $142.88
http://www.macromotive.com/shopping/...tag=3.1&area=4



Larger Brakes
The stock brakes suck. The rotors are small, and the stock ones easily warp after just 15-30k.

2G Front Brake Conversion
Replaces stock front brakes with the larger R/T or 300M ones. You must have a 16" wheel to do this. Doing this conversion lets you use the large brake kits for 2Gs. If you are converting for a large brake kit, you only need the knuckles and the ABS modifications (if you have ABS).

HP Racing Large Brake Kits - $3,636.36 to $4,242.42
Largest rotors you can get for our cars, period. They come with a loaded 8 piston caliper, braided SS brake line, and rotor. 2G conversion required (see above).
http://www.nopionline.com/ecat2004/d... 300M 2000
http://www.hpracing.com



Rotors

Brembo - Drilled And Slotted Rotors - $ 236 (fronts) - $472 (all)
Brembo OEM rotors that are CNC drilled and slotted (just like what iRotors does) by another company. No one has bought these yet, that I know of. They use specs from brembo to dill/slot them.
http://www.brakeworld.com

iRotors Cross Drilled and Slotted Rotors - $135 (fronts) -$249 (all)
Make sure you check and see if you have 4 wheel disk or rear drum before ordering. Combine these with semi-metallic pads, and you will get a big improvement in stopping power. Available for 2nd gens as well (different part numbers).
http://www.irotors.com

KVR Performance Slotted Rotors

(Cross Drilled Not Available):
93 – 01, Rear, 5356
93 – 97, Front, 5355
http://www.kvrperformance.com

Brembo Replacement Rotors - $88 (fronts) - $166 (all)
Not slotted or anything. Just an OEM style rotor that should last much longer then the stock ones.
http://www.tirerack.com

EBC Sport Grooved Rotors - $150 (front)
Black slotted and "grooved"(not drilled) rotors. Only available for front.
http://www.tirerack.com

SP Performance Brake Rotors
http://raceshopper.com/
Slotted Only:
53-56 Front $132.09/pair
53-55 Rear $147.39/pair
Cross Drilled, Cross Drilled & Slotted
or Diamond Slotted:
53-56 Front $148.51/pair
53-55 Rear $161.94/pair

R1 Concepts Inc.
These guys sell on ebay and through their store. A couple of members have suggested them as a decent, yet cheap cross drilled and slotted rotor worth checking out.
$167.99 + shipping for:
2 Front + 2 Rear R1 Concepts' E-Line Performance Brake Rotors
4 Front + 2 Rear R1 Concepts' Premium Semi-Metallic Brake Pads
$324.99 + shipping for:
2 Front + 2 Rear R1 Concepts' Premium Brake Rotors
*With New Cooling Design & Diamonds Slots
They have some other options as well!
http://store.r1concepts.com/Brake ...odge/Intrepid/



Performance Ceramic Pads
Ceramic pads are known for low dust and low noise. These pads try to combine those features with great stopping power. However, none of them will stop you as fast as a semi-metallic. But, your wheels will stay a lot cleaner. Performance will usually fade as these pads heat up.

Hawk HPS Street brake pads - $54 (front pair)
Very good bang for buck pads. A lot of 2nd gen guys use these.
http://www.tirerack.com

Bendix CT-3 - $59.48 (front pair)
Bendix's top of the line performance ceramic. Also pretty popular on here.
http://www.partsamerica.com
http://www.bendixbrakes.com



Semi-Metallic Pads
High performance pads. They love heat. But this performance comes at a price. These pads will be dustier and have more noise then your stock pads.

KVR Carbon Fiber Semi-Metallic Brake Pads
93 – 01, Rear, M7438B
93 –97, Front, M7470
http://www.kvrperformance.com
http://www.partsamerica.com

Bendix TitaniuMetallic I/II MKD591 - $38.48
http://www.partsamerica.com

Bendix Fleet Metlok MKD591FM - $56.96
http://www.partsamerica.com



Other Pads

EBC Greenstuff brake pads - $99 (front pair)
Made of a composite for very low dust and normal street braking.
http://www.tirerack.com
TireRack Reviews



Suspension
The stock suspension is pretty soft. Tightening it up can improve braking, and acceleration.

EIBACH Pro-Kit Lowering Springs - $227.01 - $272.10
Smooth ride, and lowers the high back end.
Please note that these springs are no longer being produced and your only shot at finding a set is finding them sitting on a shelf somewhere!
Front Lowering 1.0" - Rear Lowering 1.3"
http://www.nopionline.com/ - $272.10
http://optionimports.com/2806-14a.html - $209.40

INTRAX Sport Lowering Springs - $233.76
Very low. Minor shudder problems at certain speeds, since no engine/trans spacers come with the kit. You will occasionally find these guys on ebay as well.
Front Lowering 1.75" Rear Lowering 1.75"
http://www.nopionline.com/

Air Struts - $1000+
You will also need a compressor, tank, switches, valves and fittings.
http://www.truckn-store.com/product.....asp&ID=102338
http://www.airbagit.com/
http://www.kmwperformance.com

Tokico Performance Struts - $360.98
Expensive, but the best struts for these cars for under $400. Use these if you are going to use aftermarket lowering springs.
Front:
HB3092 - $93.86
HB3093 - $93.86
Rear:
HB2162 (order 2) - $86.63
http://www.nopionline.com
http://www.tokicogasshocks.com
http://www.coximport.com
http://www.gmpperformance.com
http://www.projdm.com/product_3454_10575.html - $432

KYB GR-2 Gas Struts - $228-$248.40
Work best with stock springs. They will get too stiff with lowering springs. Great bank for buck springs.
Front Right 234601 - $57-$62.10
Front Left 234602 - $57-$62.10
Rear 234603 (order 2) - $57-$62.10
http://www.nopionline.com - $62.10 per strut
http://www.tirerack.com - $57 per strut
http://www.kyb.com/

Gabriel Gas Ryder Struts - $259.69
These are suppose to be pretty good too. However, I don't know of any one who actually has them on an LH car. I just recently added them.
JC Whitney has these for about $65 per strut. AutoZone carries them as well, but they are $81 per for fronts.
http://www.jcwhitney.com/webapp/wcs/...&storeId=10101

Koni Suspension Sport Rebuild Strut Kit - $629.16
Absolutely as good as it gets for struts on these cars. I haven't found much information on these. Inserts in to the stock strut housing.
http://www.eshocks.com/bil_veh.asp?M...ysler&Manf=All
http://www.koni.com/



Other/Accessories

Corbeau Seat Brackets - $78.50 each
These allow you to install racing seats without drilling into your floor pan. Works for 2nd gens as well.
Driver Side, D1048T
Passenger Side, D1049T
http://www.corbeau.com/products/bracket/bracket.shtml

Poly Bushings are potentially in the works, but not available at the moment.
Fiberglass Hoods and Body kits are available but are considered to be primarily cosmetic.



Something a Little More Intense!
3.3L to 3.5L Stroker
Once a dream, now a reality thanks to Chewie. This is the 3.8L conversion, without the pistons and bore increase. You need the 3.8L crankshaft and connecting rods, use your stock 3.3L parts for the rest. The compression will drop to below 8:1 so you will not notice a gain in power. However, if you are planning to boost the engine the drop in compression will be to your advantage. Read the build thread for all the details - http://www.dodgeintrepid.net/forums/...ad.php?t=80122



The Stuff No One Has Really Tried Yet
These are modifications that MIGHT work in theory, but no one has yet attempted.

3.3L to 3.8L Conversion
The only difference between the LH 3.3L and the 3.8L found in many Chrysler minivans, is the bore and stroke. Block is the same, but the mounts may be different. Here’s what you have to do:
Bore out a LH 3.3L block 3mm over (93 to 96)
Buy a 3.8L rebuild kit with new piston rings, crank, rods, and pistons.
You can use your old 3.3L parts for the rest.
This will give you about 20ft/lbs of torque. You will get even more power if you use a newer 3.8L intake manifold.

3.5L HO heads and intake
The 2nd gen 3.5L HOs have a more aggressive cam, and higher flowing heads and intake. You will have to either make a new EGR pipe, or seal it off. The 3.5L HO EGR pipe MIGHT work. Getting the 2nd gen manual tuning valve working with the first gen ECU is a big question mark.


If you have anything to add or changes to make, please PM NHogan to let him know.
 
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FYI, that post is really old. Hypnos was the man back in the day but he hasn't been around in a while and this post hasn't been updated either. A lot of the information is still good though.
 

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yea just realized it after i posted. just saw it on the main page.. wierd though from 2005. most of the links dont work anymore. would like to see that power demon transmission and other stuff but cant find any of this anymore. there needs to be an updated thread just like this.
 

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yea just realized it after i posted. just saw it on the main page.. wierd though from 2005. most of the links dont work anymore. would like to see that power demon transmission and other stuff but cant find any of this anymore. there needs to be an updated thread just like this.
I'm working on it, but one thing at a time. I'm working on a car audio FAQ first, then it'll be on to a performance modification FAQ.
 

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not to mention exhaust improvements.

I personally have replaced the rear rez on my 3.5 94 cord with a twin 2.5 " 18" stainless pipe set up and gained 1mpg and it definatly felt like it worked better!

Next will be removing the muffler on my LHS and leaving the rez to keep the stock tips.

should be about the same.
 

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CAI like Jokeds and KN should be added. And the 70 mm TBI mod.
 

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If you have a 3.5L you can get the appropriate year PHP computer and the limiter will magically disappear.

If you have a 3.3L you are kinda stuck with it.
 

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If you have a 3.5L you can get the appropriate year PHP computer and the limiter will magically disappear.

If you have a 3.3L you are kinda stuck with it.
couldnt help but notice the pic in your sig.... :drool:
 

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I feel realy dumb asking """"BUT"""" what is (PHP) computer? In regards to the speed limmiter?? yes my engine is a 3.5L.
Thnaks!!
PHP stands for Performance Handling Package - cars that were PHP in the 1993-1997 year range came with various suspension upgrades, better tires, and a computer with no upper limit. the ECU can be had from salvage yards or some times on the board here - but, the 1993-1995 are OBDI and 1996 and 1997 are OBDII - just have to make sure you get the ECU from the right year range. The rear suspension geometry CAN be swapped from car to car, but I don't really know if the pay off would be worth it. A rear suspension cross member from a PHP car will have a hole drilled on the passenger side of center in the rear vertical face of the cross member.
 

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Struts, Springs, and various bushings throughout the suspension are also different. NONE of the php specific parts can be found at the local parts store, try the dealer or get them used.
 

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PHP iirc had requirement for "V" rated tires on the door sticker. But I have found several PHP cars with just a regular "S" rating on the door.
 

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PHP iirc had requirement for "V" rated tires on the door sticker. But I have found several PHP cars with just a regular "S" rating on the door.
S rated php cars are limited, V rated php cars are not. Same goes for the "Sports" model.
 

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S rated php cars are limited, V rated php cars are not. Same goes for the "Sports" model.
Cars like the Intrepid R/T, 300M Special, and others with V-rated tires from the factory do have a limit it's just way up there at 143 MPH. :D

IIRC, the T-rated cars have an upper limit of 118 MPH - but don't quote me on that, it's been awhile.

The Police Specials are rated at 138 MPH.


That information is straight off the Chrysler computer system. In 2005(?) when I got the new computer for my R/T, I was with the tech when he programmed the computer. There were a whole bunch of options available and all of them showed the MPH limit.

There were some rumors that the first V-rated cars did not have a limit from the factory but I don't think any one managed to really prove that - though some tried. A lot of people don't realize how fast 143 MPH is or how much open road you need to get there. Even the Michigan tests only managed to reach into the lower 130's (IIRC) on a 2-mile run ... ;-)
 

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Cars like the Intrepid R/T, 300M Special, and others with V-rated tires from the factory do have a limit it's just way up there at 143 MPH. :D

IIRC, the T-rated cars have an upper limit of 118 MPH - but don't quote me on that, it's been awhile.

The Police Specials are rated at 138 MPH.


That information is straight off the Chrysler computer system. In 2005(?) when I got the new computer for my R/T, I was with the tech when he programmed the computer. There were a whole bunch of options available and all of them showed the MPH limit.

There were some rumors that the first V-rated cars did not have a limit from the factory but I don't think any one managed to really prove that - though some tried. A lot of people don't realize how fast 143 MPH is or how much open road you need to get there. Even the Michigan tests only managed to reach into the lower 130's (IIRC) on a 2-mile run ... ;-)
All good information, thank you. I just want to point out though, this is a First Gen section. What is posted above is for Second Gen.
 

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All good information, thank you. I just want to point out though, this is a First Gen section. What is posted above is for Second Gen.
Oops! *redface*


Public Service Announcement: It is dangerous to ever exceed the speed rating of the tires on your car. ;-)


Edit
And I should have known better than to question Veeb0rg - he knows what he's talking about, especially with the 1st Gen. Should have looked closer at the poster's name ... :-/
 

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I dont know about that. I raced a 150 mph Mustang on the hwy. And i was faster top end. This was the RIP 2000 R/T. That Mother Mopar bought back from me, for sticking wide open during cold weather. Over 250 1999 and 2000 LH recorded with this problem, by the US Gov hwy safety board. Plus i worked for DC at the time ( Roseville Chrysler) when the 2 techs came from the home office. And they both said that there was no limiter. Aero drag is what limited top speed. Also there was at least one or two Test drives. By Auto Mag's that listed the top end at over 145 mph.
 
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